injectors not spraying?
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injectors not spraying?
well ive got a 87 base model , just did a swap from my cousins car (he wrecked it) and i needed a motor, well i got everything in and removed the vacuum maze and throttle body coolant lines, i went to try and start it today for the first time and nothing (which didnt surprise me) i checked spark and fuel pressure and they were good i noticed that my injectors werent spraying i tried to allow fuel into the motor then starting it i can get it to sputter like its gunna start but then it uses the fuel ive put in, i found that the injector clips had exposed wire that most likely have crossed,would this short anything out and if so what (resistor pack) or sumthing like that,
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EFI FUSE..on the Fuse block in the engine bay..Check it...actually there are Two..one 30 amp and one 40 amp..they rae the first two..Closest to the engine.
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i forgot to metion that they work ,at first i thought maybe it was flooded so i dod the egi fuse deflooding techique but no go, also the motor is out of another 87 base
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The same fuse that supplies voltage for spark, also supplys the power to the ECU and the fuel injectors. Got one, should have all.
Did you use YOUR EM harness on the engine, OR did you use HIS EM harness on the engine?
Early 87 cars had a Solenoid Resistor Package that is in line with the fuel injectors. The 87 1/2 and on cars have no such item. Maybe the resistor package got left off the harness???? Maybe.
Or the gnd wires for the ECU, which are located on the top of the rear rotor housing, were not bolted down? Eh, you've got spark, so maybe that's ok.
Easy to check to see if the injectors have voltage or not. Pull the small plug off the ECU. Look at the PLUG on the harness with a meter and the key to ON. The green/white, green/black, green/red and pure light green should all have batt voltage on them.
The ECU pulses a gnd on each of those wires to make the injectors pulse when they're supposed to pulse. FYI.
Did you use YOUR EM harness on the engine, OR did you use HIS EM harness on the engine?
Early 87 cars had a Solenoid Resistor Package that is in line with the fuel injectors. The 87 1/2 and on cars have no such item. Maybe the resistor package got left off the harness???? Maybe.
Or the gnd wires for the ECU, which are located on the top of the rear rotor housing, were not bolted down? Eh, you've got spark, so maybe that's ok.
Easy to check to see if the injectors have voltage or not. Pull the small plug off the ECU. Look at the PLUG on the harness with a meter and the key to ON. The green/white, green/black, green/red and pure light green should all have batt voltage on them.
The ECU pulses a gnd on each of those wires to make the injectors pulse when they're supposed to pulse. FYI.
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With a meter check the voltage on the wires mentioned above.
Or. Get the cas out of your old motor.
Put the plug off the cas in the car, on that cas out of the old engine.
Pull the plugs off the lead and trail coil assy. Not the sparkplug wires, the plugs that go to each coil assy.
Now. Key ON. Spin the cas bottom gear with your fingers. You should hear the primary injectors clicking when you do that.
Write back with the results.
Or. Get the cas out of your old motor.
Put the plug off the cas in the car, on that cas out of the old engine.
Pull the plugs off the lead and trail coil assy. Not the sparkplug wires, the plugs that go to each coil assy.
Now. Key ON. Spin the cas bottom gear with your fingers. You should hear the primary injectors clicking when you do that.
Write back with the results.
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well i did the above mentioned (pull the CAS from old motor) i got clicking but only after about 4 clicks of the injection relay like this .....relay click 4 times then one click of an injector , then 3 clicks of relay, then 1 of injector ..... .also i lost my footing while reaching for the CAS and hit a wire that had broken from the alternator and grounded out on the body of the ALT, and now the relay wont power up when ignition is turned on and turning the CAS does nothing i opened the relay and manually engaged it and that same injector works, also my warning lights dont light up anymore , only one lights up.
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There should have been no relay clicking at all. Other than when you just turned the key to ON. After that, the only click should have come from the primary injectors, and them alone.
So the *relay* clicking isn't right.
The BAC might make a constant buzzing once the key is put to ON. Simply pull it's plug off to stop that buzz.
You might have damaged your alternato.
The warning lights come on when the key is put to ON, engine OFF, because the white/black wire on the back of the alternator puts a ground on a relay in the CPU (series four cars). That in turn causes all the warning lights to come on.
Sounds like you blew the ENGINE FUSE or one of the EGI fuses. Engine fuse in the interior box, EGI in the engine bay fuse box.
So the *relay* clicking isn't right.
The BAC might make a constant buzzing once the key is put to ON. Simply pull it's plug off to stop that buzz.
You might have damaged your alternato.
The warning lights come on when the key is put to ON, engine OFF, because the white/black wire on the back of the alternator puts a ground on a relay in the CPU (series four cars). That in turn causes all the warning lights to come on.
Sounds like you blew the ENGINE FUSE or one of the EGI fuses. Engine fuse in the interior box, EGI in the engine bay fuse box.
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well she wasnt abel to make it..... and it was kinda raining on and off ... i swapped out the CAS from my old motor and seem to work better................. i got it started today, but i have to keep on the throttle to keep it alive and it sounds kinda misfiring,,, but it has good throttle responce. i, fc3schick told me it was probably a bad intake leak......but i have everything back on , am i missing sumthing, got rid of the rats nest, and throttle body coolant bypass as well and removing the secondary butterflies in the T-body.
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