If you eliminate emissions stuff with block off plates, Im guessing that you HAVE to eliminate the OMP as well? bc it uses the VAC lines ? Or is there a way to work around this?

Thanks guys

 

The brittle OMP lines are connect directly to the oil injectors. Which are connected to a sort of vacuum tube spider, which connects to the bottom of the upper intake manifold, i believe.

So no, you dont.

 

No emission systems are connected to the OMP system. As long as the vacuum hoses between the injectors and vacuum source are connected (and no vacuum leaks), you're fine.

 

So running the vac line from the four way splitter to the intake mani is all that is needed to keep the OMP operational?

 

yes you need to FRESH metered air (not vacuum) for the fuel injectors and oil injectors. Search my username I have a previous post with links about this..... You can keep the OMP functional after removing everything by the way.....

 

for any further questions, consult the faq.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...s_removal.html
btw, this subject has been beatin to death

Lloyd

 

And for that matter, you don't want to remove the following them making your emissions removal:

-hot start solenoid
-BAC valve
-cold start thermowax

 

I bought a block off plate kit from bonzai and it came with a BAC plate. Why would they send me this if your not suppose to block it off? I'm not trying to be a dick or anything, just trying to understand a reason. Thanks

 

You can, but driving a BAC-less car on the street is not fun. It is responsible for compensating for loads on the engine (ie A/C, etc) and I believe it also helps keep the car alive before it warms up when you first start it. Basically, it allows air to bypass the throttle body when the TB is closed to maintain idle.

 

I don't know man, have you ever seen intake temps get that high on a hot start? Even on FD's I never have, and their IAT sensor is in a heatsoak-prone location under the UIM. Highest IAT I have ever seen on any car was maybe 74 C? And that was on an FD hot starting on a 100 F degree day.

Speaking of FD's, the FD uses a fuel temp sensor to switch the pressure regulator control solenoid. But that is also tripped at a ridiculously high temperature (for fuel at least):



I'd say keep it if it ever actually engaged, but you'd have to be hot starting in Death Valley or something for it to actually work. I've never heard of anyone vapor locking a fuel injected rotary.

 

Yeah, true enough. It's just not a traditional "emissions" component so I don't know why people pull it out.

 

Thanks, I will def leave it on. Especially considering I replaced the coolant lines for it a month ago. I guess people just get too gung ho to remove every possible component on their car and it still "kinda" runs. IDK haha