OK so I sealed up everything that I has taken apart.... I checked the tps and I checked for codes... I get NOTHING.. the tps is fine ... no codes... no vac leaks that I can find... today it was reving to 5k before it comes down.. even when warm it revs high.. drops down and surges.

any more ideas?... please

 

side note... my PS belt broke.. I have no replaced it.. nor do I have intention of it.. I plan on removing the whole system asap.

 

yet another thought.... what is the best method for searching down vac leaks

 

Pakr3- don't know about the full range S5 TPS, we only have the one on our S4's (guess I ain't "da man" after all, lol)

Jacob- pull at least one of the connectors off of your water temp switch on the lower left-hand corner of your radiator. Just a guess, but the only thing I can think of is your ECU-generated 3K warmup is going psycho on you. I can't see a 5K idle surge from a vac leak, especially since you just sealed everything back up...Also pull the connector for your air bypass solenoid valve, on the left side of the engine, with the air bypass hoses going to it, just in case it's going pyscho too. With these items disconnected, try her again, and see what happens...

 

but wouldnt the ecu send me some kind of code if those were freaking out?

 

Nope...The ECU controls the air bypass valve relay, which controls the valve itself. If the relay contacts are stuck closed, that valve will be open all the time, allowing far too much intake air. Like I said, just a guess, definetly could be another "gremlin".

 

Ok.. well I disconnected the temp switch... the air bypass solenoid... should i disconnect the bac valve too?

I cant run the car right now sadly.. I dont want to wake the neighbors with a 5k rev LOL

 

Seems kinda far fetched but I was having same problem and it appears that I had a cracked exhaust manifold. In process of replacing manifold and full exhaust so no reults, just a guess. Could explain the idle problem since you've checked all vac lines.

 

PLEASE!!! I need more info.. this cant be good for her... tonight after work she rev'd up to 5500 .... I traced all the vac lines again... and just for the heck of it I pulled the large line that goes from the intake tube around the back of the TB off... last time I did that it stalled the car.. this time it did nothing at all.. maybe dropped the engine speed a few rpm but nothing major

 

All right, man, let's take another route, if ya want...Maybe the spring on your AFM door is really weak, and idle air shoves it open like it would be at 55mph on the highway...Another guess, but easy to check- if you know how the door should feel normally, go check it out with the intake box off (or CAI piping, if you have that)...Another way to do it would be to read out the AFM input at the ECU at idle, and compare the voltage to specs (about 3v at idle, IIRC)...I seem to be linking to this a lot lately, lol...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/troubleshooting-your-car-ecu-340578/

 

Well that seems like a good possibility... I tested it out.. ignition on its 4 volts... I start the car and it tweaks out to about .9 volts... when it comes down to it 1000 - 1500 rev game its reading 1.1 - 1.25 volts

the door pulses open and closed with the engine revs...

I have no idea what the door should feel like by just pressing on it...

I am going to post another thread on air meter repair if I cant find anything in the archives... see what people say about the air meter..

If you think my results from testing are strange let me know...

I would be very greatful if some one could test their voltages for 1000 - 1500 rpm, so I have somthing to compaire my results from... but I am guessing that the 5000 rpm .9 is saying that the 1.1 is way to far open.