hi guys, i just had an accident last monday night.
i hit the curb real bad, lucky the curb was on a slant.
now my L/F wheel is dented in and in a positive camber.
anyone knows any possible damage i could have made.
thanks

 

well theirs lots of stuff..youll have to pull the wheel and look at your control arms..ball joints..tie rods innner and outers..ive even seen struts bend and cause problems hope this helps...good luck..

 

You bent the lower control arm.

 

+1..quit driving like you have a Honda!

 

pull the wheel to get a clue as to the damage that you've done. the lower control arms are made from aluminum and while they are strong and rigid, they are usually the first giving point when the vehicle has been curbed. inspect the inner and outer tie rod ends and sleeve as well as the sway bar end link and strut assembly.

 

thanks guys....
I'll probably change the lower control arm first and i'll update you guys if there is any improvements.

 

i changed my LCA but it didn't do anything. still having the same problem.
where should i look next? thanks

 

if you can, take some pictures with the wheel off.

 

maybe you managed to bend the spindle. I would take everything apart and compare it to the other side.

 

i had a similar accident but it involved a dog... dont ask ^definitely check your lower control arm and spindle, those are most important.

 

Why would you just change **** if you don't even know whats wrong? If you don't know what your doing take it to a shop and get a licenced tech to inspect it.

 

You may have bent the front subframe-at least that is what I did to my vert.

 

Check the lateral link.

 

depends on how hard you hit the curb.
when i curbed my car, i swapped my LCA, and nothing.
when i swapped the whole spindle, everything was cherry.

I'd would try to get a hold of a spindle for cheap, and swap that over.
if nothings changed then i'd be worried about subframe damage.

make sure your strut isn't bent either.

 

take a pic.... its cheaper then throwing parts. or look very closely at both sides of the car and compare the bad side to the good side. done

 

Time to raise this thread from the depths.....

I had a very low speed (<15 mph) "dissagreement" with a curb on the pass front wheel recently. The wheel hit almost exactly perpendicular to the curb which resulted in some fairly noticable positive camber and very awkward handling characteristics.

I limped it home (3-5 miles) and discovered a 45* bend in the pass side inner tirerod right before it connects with the tierod end. I replaced the inner, inspected the outter (cast iron doesn't bend and the ball joint was still firm) and replaced the boot with new grease. The steering got a lot better, but the positive camber was still there.

I then noticed that the impact had knocked the strut slightly out of position where it bolts to the hub (the top bolt hole on the coilover is slightly elongated, which provides some very minimal camber adjustment) I lossened the bolts and returned the strut to its original orientaion (max neg camber) this provided a minimal difference. I then checked the camber plates to see if it had been knocked out of alignment....surprisingly it had not. Just to drive I used the camber plate to neutralize the positive camber however the pass side is almost maxed out just to match the camber of the driver side (roughly 60% of max).

So on my first test drive I noticed a "roaring" sound seeming to come from the pass front area. It is completley vehicle speed dependent and completely independent of all other inputs. Which leads me to believe its a wheel bearing(s). Considering that everything else seems to be straight my guess is that the spindle has been compromised (causing the bearing noise). Is it even worth the time to dissasemble and inspect the spindle/ bearings, or should I just pick up another one (spindle) and swap it?

 

bearing. spindle is done if it bent the tie rod. just swap it and be done.

 

Great, just what I wanted to hear!
Off to the yard to grab a hub in the morning. Guess I'll repack the bearing (s) since I'll have it off anyway.

 

Yep, and both sides can be done in a couple hours anyway... Even faster if you have a welder!

 

I have no intention on removing the race, just pulling the bearings and slapping some grease in. the driver side was done about 2 years ago so I'm only worried about the pass side.

 

I just wanted to share my story I had with a car I used to own since its related to the topic. Hit a wall with my front right wheel at maybe like 40-50mph. The wheel took pretty much all the impact. I had tow out and a good amount of positive camber. I replaced the lca, spindle, bearing, strut, and my steering rack that eventually cracked. I bought a new rack which came with tie rods so that was also replaced. I still had bad positive camber which I temporarily fixed with some camber adjustment bolts (had to use 2 xD). Bearing started going out real fast. I ended up losing the car before I could find out what was still causing the positive camber. The only things left I could think of that were wacked out were either my sub framing/crossmember was bent or the knuck was bent and also the inside housing where the wheel bearing is pressed in was f'd.

I was only able to get a find couple of the pics on my computer of the aftermath..check them out ;]

Wheel bearing after it started rumbling and making grinding noises


Wheel had numerous deep scratches, this was the worse of it.


My steering rack had cracked and I didnt know untill it started making clunking sounds when I'd turn the steering wheel side to side. At which point it had completely broken in two places.

 

This. my friend hit a curb the other day drifting and bent this.

 

Rumblz:
yikes! That was some pretty extensive damage, sucks that you never found the problem. I took pictures of the ball joints next to a straight edge, so if this spindle doesn't fix it, I'll go pick up a front sub frame. When some lady ran me off the road (and bent my lateral link coincidentally) I replaced the whole rear subframe just as a precaution, haven't had a problem since. But that was @ 70+ mph, I doubt this most recent incident is severe enough to tweak the subframe.