rotarynemesis

Im trying to pull out the rear diff on my 89 and I wondering do I have to drop the entire rear subframe to get this out? Anyone got a walkthrough?

Icemark

The FSM actually has a great write up as well as the haynes.

Pretty simple. Some people will drop the whole subframe. I prefer to leave it up, and just loosen the bolts needed.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

It is possible to remove it with leaving the subframe it, but IMO it is 10X easier to just drop the entire subframe. Here is a quick walkthough from the top of my head, sorry if I forgot anything. 1st, jack car up and support it from something besides subframe. Remove rear wheels, and rear calipers. You can just undo the 12mm bolt and slide the 1/2 of the caliper off, I like to tie it up out of the way to the coil springs with a ziptie. Next, unbolt swaybar from endlink ( 14mm bolt with nut ). Next, unbolt lower strut mounts (17mm). Unbolt lateral support bar , located center/drivers side beside diff( 17mm bolt and nut). Unbolt driveshaft ( 4 14mm nuts/bolts). Next, support diff wth jack. Unbolt bolt side diff mouts ( 17mm nut ) Unbolt both side front subframe mounts, which are 21mm, with a bracket around them held to the body with a 14mm nut. Now your subframe will be ready to drop. Slowly lower the jack, you may need to pry slightly to get it to fall, but it will drop right down.

ilike2eatricers

How many hours is that job?

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Usually takes me ~2 hours to get one out and back in. Not rushing..

ilike2eatricers

Somehow I thought it was alot more time consuming and difficult.

ilike2eatricers

double post

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Its a PITA, but not too bad. Ive done it more times than I care to count though, so if youve never done it before Id add on an extra hour or so.

Spraintz

iTrader: (1)

all the times i've swapped rear ends, i disconnect the sway bar and bottom shock mount and disconnect the driver side subframe nut and let only that side come down just enough to get to the front diff mount nuts the undo the rear nuts with the rear supported on a jack then slowly lower it and let it tilt out of the sub-frame. i just did it a couple of nights ago and it only took me about an hour and i was by myself (i know, dangerous), but i think thats just because i've had a bunch of practice. no matter how you do it, be safe, have help handy, take yer time, good luck with the rear axle nuts, and once you get it all back together go get that sucker aligned.

good luck and have a nice day.

TII '87

Like Rxmfn7 said, This job is a PITA!!!

the whole job is REALLY easy, but I got stuck on one bolt for AN HOUR man!

unbolt the whole subframe makes the thing really easier, but you have to be well equipped! It was my first Diff removal though...

rotarynemesis

Thanks to all but especially to Rxmfn7. Went just like you said in your little walkthrough. Very simple and very straightforward. But damn the t2 diff is alot heavier than the n/a diff. that was the hardest part was lifting that damn t2 diff back up into its spot to bolt on the front. But maybe thats because Im not the strongest person. Thanks again, Im now one step closer to finishing my t2 conversion. BTW anyone make brackets for auto to manual swap?

rotarynemesis

how do i get the rear subframe back up there? it seems like it needs to be an inch longer but i was just wondeirng if there are any easy techniques to get it to fit back up there.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

I find the easiest way is to use 2 jacks. 1 under the rear end itself right in the center, and 1 under the center part of the subframe, closest to the front of the car. Jack each of them up evenly and slowly, lining up all 4 mounting points ( 2 on each end of diff, and 2 on ends of front subframe. This way the whole thing is level and it goes pretty smoothly. If you dont have 2 floor jacks, use your cars factory scissor jack, that works well also.

Bob_The_Normal

Normally takes two people when trying to line it back up... line up the back/higher two studs first, get them on there just a little bit so they don't un-lineup then work on lineing up the front two... problem is weight, you need someone to hold the whole thing level and lined up while you're jacking it up or it just doesn't work, both sides have to come up at the same time evenly.

--Gary

rotarynemesis

ok now one more question. do the n/a axels fit the t2 diff? they look slightly too long. if they do have tips to get them back on?

thanks for all the help so far.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

No, the entire Turbo2 drivetrain is different than the N/A, including the axles, which are a good bit thicker/stronger. They are not interchangable.