How to: Pinion snubber install
#51
Rotary Addiction
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i did this install a while ago
it does not work.......
the rubber mount was broken on my 7, so we did this modification. it worked for about, 30 min untill i did a launch.
i BENT THE METAL that the pinion was screwed into
so if your looking for a cheap way to get by with out replacing your mount this isnt really going to fix the issue. its really just a bandaid that will soon just mess up again.
dont bandaid....... replace the mount with the right parts.
if your lowered i guess this will help you but if your looking for a quick way to fix a broken diff mount... yeah, its not going to help you.
it does not work.......
the rubber mount was broken on my 7, so we did this modification. it worked for about, 30 min untill i did a launch.
i BENT THE METAL that the pinion was screwed into
so if your looking for a cheap way to get by with out replacing your mount this isnt really going to fix the issue. its really just a bandaid that will soon just mess up again.
dont bandaid....... replace the mount with the right parts.
if your lowered i guess this will help you but if your looking for a quick way to fix a broken diff mount... yeah, its not going to help you.
Last edited by fc3schick87; 09-29-11 at 01:46 PM.
#53
Old Rotary Dog
The pinion snubber is meant to add support to the front diff mount in order to prevent it from tearing. It is not meant as a replacement. I'm not surprised you bent your floor pan.
#55
talking head
fc3schick is referring to running a vertical link with a torn rubber mount block
hence her refs to lowered ( and racing ) FC's could do with the method that corrects the pinion angle
her act of bending the metal bob arm bracket would be a good feat
,, thickness is twice that of what the block mounts through
but expect some toque multiplication cause of the arms length past the pivot
and so i expect if it is doing all the job,, something had to give
in racing situ , you could always brace the back of that arm with some angle iron
the mod that i have done is intended to retain the stock rubber mount block
i am also using a rubber pillow end at base of the vertical link
that will deform and give before the bracket does
there is also nothing stopping the hard core racers going 1 notch further
deleting the rubber mounting block and bracket
and to fab your own triangulating link to hypotenuse across to the studs on the diff nose
hence her refs to lowered ( and racing ) FC's could do with the method that corrects the pinion angle
her act of bending the metal bob arm bracket would be a good feat
,, thickness is twice that of what the block mounts through
but expect some toque multiplication cause of the arms length past the pivot
and so i expect if it is doing all the job,, something had to give
in racing situ , you could always brace the back of that arm with some angle iron
the mod that i have done is intended to retain the stock rubber mount block
i am also using a rubber pillow end at base of the vertical link
that will deform and give before the bracket does
there is also nothing stopping the hard core racers going 1 notch further
deleting the rubber mounting block and bracket
and to fab your own triangulating link to hypotenuse across to the studs on the diff nose
#58
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Maybe BumpStart can answer this.
Instead if just adding a brace where the diff mount was,what about using a collar to Hold down the Whole front part of the diff to the Subframe?It looks like it can be done.
like a giant C collar to go over the diff and get bolted on each side,so that the front nose of the diff doesn't jump.
...../\..... <<<like that.(hope ya understand!)
Instead if just adding a brace where the diff mount was,what about using a collar to Hold down the Whole front part of the diff to the Subframe?It looks like it can be done.
like a giant C collar to go over the diff and get bolted on each side,so that the front nose of the diff doesn't jump.
...../\..... <<<like that.(hope ya understand!)
#59
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I am pretty sure I get what you're saying... That's a pretty good idea. I have just been kind of searching for different pictures and ideas to see what sort of solutions we can come up with.
#61
so ive been trying to figure this out, can you run a pinion snubber with a PBM solid diff mount? The PBM mount doesn't have the extension piece that comes off the front of the mount.
#62
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The snubber doesn't hit the mount.
It hits the diff.It is placed on the car body above the diff,touching.(preloaded).
I just did this about 2 weeks ago and it took about 2 hours.I'm getting old.
The Part(snubber) from Summit,you can get at NAPA.They will just order it in...at least that is what they did up here in Canada.It took a Whole day.
It hits the diff.It is placed on the car body above the diff,touching.(preloaded).
I just did this about 2 weeks ago and it took about 2 hours.I'm getting old.
The Part(snubber) from Summit,you can get at NAPA.They will just order it in...at least that is what they did up here in Canada.It took a Whole day.
#64
89GTUs (38k original mi)
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Any update from people who have done this? is it still holding up well with no downsides? Will the diff mount still wear out? Will the diff heat ever melt the snubber? (I have a mazda comp diff mount sitting at home.)
This is basically the end-all-be-all solution for high HP FC's?
This seems so necessary, yet I dont hear it mentioned often or at all. I'm looking to do this.
This is basically the end-all-be-all solution for high HP FC's?
This seems so necessary, yet I dont hear it mentioned often or at all. I'm looking to do this.
#65
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (25)
Any update from people who have done this? is it still holding up well with no downsides? Will the diff mount still wear out? Will the diff heat ever melt the snubber? (I have a mazda comp diff mount sitting at home.)
This is basically the end-all-be-all solution for high HP FC's?
This seems so necessary, yet I dont hear it mentioned often or at all. I'm looking to do this.
This is basically the end-all-be-all solution for high HP FC's?
This seems so necessary, yet I dont hear it mentioned often or at all. I'm looking to do this.
If you're not REALLY thrashing on the thing it will be fine. It's polyurethane, so itwon't melt.
It IS advised to re-inforce the welds on the front mount tab on the subframe.
#67
What's the point??
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I haven't had a problem at all. I've had probably 80 hard launches on both the track and street with it, and I just had a few launches this weekend with my 400 ftlb VR6 on the two step and deadhooking without an issue.
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