DREYKO

ok guys, I figure just about everyone prolly knows how, but we gotta be nice to the newbs sometimes right?

here we go...
car is an 88 gxl chassis

the wheel


loosen all lugs on wheel (signifigantly harder in the air, the hub likes to spin


jack up car and secure it with jack stands. My leaking diff caused me to need a pan for oil drippage.


remove lugs and wheel, this puts you at the rotor e entire reason im doning this look at that thing yuck!



remove the 2 14mm bolts on the bacl of the calipher (make sure the e-brake is off or this is a pita, then remove the caliper(I had to pry it off) While the caliper is off do not touch the brake pedel or e-brake unless you want to make your life hell.

End of part one...

DREYKO

once you remove the 2 phillips head screws holding the rotor to the hub(if theyre still there) you should be able to take off the rotor (it may require love from a hammer) that will bring you to the hub. spin it by hand and listen to it to ensure your wheel bearings are good.


Incase your wondering, the big *** axle nut is a 32mm


slap on your new rotor (advance auto has them cheper, but they dont have pics on file the 4 pistons are referring to the front brakes so they are the 5 lug. (i ordered single pistons and found out the hard way. dont forget the small screws


Ceramic pads! Part number d332 decent cost effective pads.


see that piston? you have to turn it to get your pads in. they make a tool for this, but pliers work too, just twist it until it goes in almost flush.

DREYKO

New pads! Looking good.


this is how they will sit in the calipher, dont lose that spring.



slide the first one in with the clip in it as shown, then the other (i used a flat head to get the spring into the pad. dont forget to smaer the backs with anti squeal.


pop it back on and use those 2 14mm boklts to hold it on like it was.

DavidHolmesIII

Good work, Thanks.

DREYKO

slap your wheel on and torque to 67-85 ft lbs going in a criss cross pattern.
then reward yourself with more work, dont let those wheels look like crap, lets clean em up!


thats more like it, (looks better in person...damn flash



cheap photo op. the other side is the same way. then test and enjoy your good brakes. total cost was under 100 bux all inclusive.

racerlinkfc

should be in the archives for everyone to see whenever such as newbs! lol

meximan

iTrader: (37)

you should post your costs of materials/parts on it.

phoenix7

DREYKO

cost of materials.
ceramic pads, 27.88 +tax, included the fruity pink grease (why pink you idiots)
rotors 26.99 each (i got them for 16 bux a pop, cool friends in managment)
brake parts cleaner 2.99

so
84.85 before tax total

my cost...

59.88, I had the brake cleaner already

dennis blackstone

good write up...how about bleeding for newbies write up

DREYKO

what other general write ups would you guys like to see? im going to start making a writeup for every thing I do.

magus2222

iTrader: (22)

lol. cant say ive ever seen ANYONE do a writeup as basic as that. wow.
good job, damn, im blown away, as basic and no **** as it is, people honestly dont know how to do stuff like that.
more writeups that are basic, i would love to see a full electrical race setup writeup, but thats just me
i should do a writeup of how to disassemble and cut up a car and make profit of it it!

peace

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

While I truly appreciate your contribution to the site, the directions and explanations in there are a bit confusing, and the spelling is horible!

Copy and paste it into word, run spell check, and edit your post. Somthing like this, while thelpful, needs to be either done well, not half assed, or not done at all. Sorry for being a pain in the ***.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Physician heal thyself.

Four sentences and three misspelled words.

While your directions for spell checking are truly a contribution to the site, you apparently don't know about the built-in spell checker.

DREYKO

I'm using a wireless keyboard and sometimes it has a mind of its own. it swaps out letters, and ignores letters etc. It really sucks, because I can spell pretty decently too.

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

You see! Thou made me misspell ****!

EDIT: Yeah, don't you hate it when you treat yourself like that? And what about this "built in spell checker?" I know there is one in Fire Fox, but I hate Fire Fox..

racerlinkfc

i thought it was a very informative write up .Alot of other write ups dont have the pictures accompanied by what type of tools to use materials and such . this write up showed everything step by step . great job man ,i just gave my lil brother his first seven and told him to sign up on the site . and to look up how to do things . first thing he did was swap put the rotors so thank you again .

racerlinkfc

sorry meant "swap out". lol my bad

DREYKO

no problem, I may be doing another writeup on manifold removal or what not. I am soon to be in the process of reinstalling my 5/6 ports.

dennis blackstone

leave the guy alone ,he tried his best to help others ...and all the newbes will apreciate it ...not everyones gramma is perfect ...mine sucks but you get the idea in the end

EvenOlder

Please archive. Great writeup.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Good writeup, but I would toss those phillip screws if I were you. They serve no purpose other than holding the rotor in place, and they sieze often. I had to use an impact screwdriver to remove mine.

scathcart

Something else to definitely do while doing a brake job is to remove the old grease from the boot/slide pin and bolt, and re-lube with a good synthetic high temp grease. This allows the caliper to easily slide when the brakes are applied to allow for equal clamping pressure from both sides.
I also like to re-lube the needle bearing for the parking brake actuators to prevent them from sticking, but thats considerably more involved.

Napsterfreak15

the screws that hold my rotor in both stripped out so i welded a bolt to it and the bolt broke.

So my final option it to drill it out i guess. ARE those screws necessary?

DREYKO

they arent nessessary, just make it nicer when you remove a wheel and your rotor doesnt wobble around. once a wheel is bolted up the wheel holds down the rotor