How much PSI can i run on my 60-1?
08-04-07, 09:54 PM
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How much PSI can i run on my 60-1?
Hey i have a 60-1 Garrett turbo on my 10th AE, along with a walbro 255, aeromotive FPR, and brand new injectors. What is the max PSI i can safely run on this setup? Currently the wastegate is still set at the stock PSI, which according to my gauge at 8 psi.
08-04-07, 11:38 PM
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BBBAAADDD idea u still don't have a way to control fuel, the stock injectors are way to small, and the stock intercooler (aka interheater) will limit you to around 10 psi unless your doing alcohol injection. But I am guessing your not since your trying to cheap out on everything instead of doing it right the first time.
Don't boost up till you get a better wastegate (if you are s4), a boost controller, a way to control fuel (stand alone or safc), bigger injectors (at least 720 secondaries), and a FMIC (or anything but the stock top mount). Also your going to hit fuel cut if you don't have a FCD or a way to bypass it with a standalone or RTEC.
Do it right or do it again after a rebuild.
BTW stock wastegate is not set for 8 psi. Either your gauge sucks or you are getting boost spikes. If you were doing 8 psi without a FCD, you would be hitting fuel cut every time. (makes me think your gauge is bad)
Don't boost up till you get a better wastegate (if you are s4), a boost controller, a way to control fuel (stand alone or safc), bigger injectors (at least 720 secondaries), and a FMIC (or anything but the stock top mount). Also your going to hit fuel cut if you don't have a FCD or a way to bypass it with a standalone or RTEC.
Do it right or do it again after a rebuild.
BTW stock wastegate is not set for 8 psi. Either your gauge sucks or you are getting boost spikes. If you were doing 8 psi without a FCD, you would be hitting fuel cut every time. (makes me think your gauge is bad)
Last edited by TweakGames; 08-04-07 at 11:46 PM.
08-05-07, 12:20 AM
#7
The stock ECU is set up for 6lbs of boost. Could go up to 8 but thats putting your injectors at full duty cycle which is no good.
My answer would be no more than 6 under normal boost. If you wan't dependability than stay low. IF you want more boost than you should go upgraded comp, larger injectors, and boost controller. Which will lead to more......
Maybe your 60-1 garrett will provide more boost at lower rpms?
My answer would be no more than 6 under normal boost. If you wan't dependability than stay low. IF you want more boost than you should go upgraded comp, larger injectors, and boost controller. Which will lead to more......
Maybe your 60-1 garrett will provide more boost at lower rpms?
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08-05-07, 05:51 AM
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BBBAAADDD idea u still don't have a way to control fuel, the stock injectors are way to small, and the stock intercooler (aka interheater) will limit you to around 10 psi unless your doing alcohol injection. But I am guessing your not since your trying to cheap out on everything instead of doing it right the first time.
Don't boost up till you get a better wastegate (if you are s4), a boost controller, a way to control fuel (stand alone or safc), bigger injectors (at least 720 secondaries), and a FMIC (or anything but the stock top mount). Also your going to hit fuel cut if you don't have a FCD or a way to bypass it with a standalone or RTEC.
Do it right or do it again after a rebuild.
BTW stock wastegate is not set for 8 psi. Either your gauge sucks or you are getting boost spikes. If you were doing 8 psi without a FCD, you would be hitting fuel cut every time. (makes me think your gauge is bad)
Don't boost up till you get a better wastegate (if you are s4), a boost controller, a way to control fuel (stand alone or safc), bigger injectors (at least 720 secondaries), and a FMIC (or anything but the stock top mount). Also your going to hit fuel cut if you don't have a FCD or a way to bypass it with a standalone or RTEC.
Do it right or do it again after a rebuild.
BTW stock wastegate is not set for 8 psi. Either your gauge sucks or you are getting boost spikes. If you were doing 8 psi without a FCD, you would be hitting fuel cut every time. (makes me think your gauge is bad)
As of now i have 1136 miles on the new motor and am nearing the end of breaking it in. The Centerforce dual friction clutch is on the way, because the one in it is a piece of junk and is already blown. Once that is installed and i replace the TB to fix my vac leaks, then im getting 720 secondaries and an SAFC. I think i will run the methanol injection, as that is a really good way to drop IAT's quickly.
08-05-07, 11:23 AM
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I AM doing it right the first time. The motor is a BRAND NEW atkins motor with S5 rotors and 3mm apex seals. The turbo was expensive as hell, the exhaust, FPR, DP, fuel pump, and all the other things im putting on the car are top of the line! Hell after dropping 2k+ on a motor the last thing im gonna do is put some cheap *** pill in the wastegate line and pop the motor. I was simply wondering what the setup would support. I know im doing 8PSI because its a brand new Autometer gauge, at the manifold, and it's defenatly hitting 8psi, with no fuel cut. it builds 2psi by 3k, since i still have the "twin scroll" hooked up, and it hits and stays at 8 with no boost creep from 4.5k rpms all the way to 8K rpms. I also have a Racing Beat FCD, but its not installed right now seeing as im still breaking it in.
As of now i have 1136 miles on the new motor and am nearing the end of breaking it in. The Centerforce dual friction clutch is on the way, because the one in it is a piece of junk and is already blown. Once that is installed and i replace the TB to fix my vac leaks, then im getting 720 secondaries and an SAFC. I think i will run the methanol injection, as that is a really good way to drop IAT's quickly.
As of now i have 1136 miles on the new motor and am nearing the end of breaking it in. The Centerforce dual friction clutch is on the way, because the one in it is a piece of junk and is already blown. Once that is installed and i replace the TB to fix my vac leaks, then im getting 720 secondaries and an SAFC. I think i will run the methanol injection, as that is a really good way to drop IAT's quickly.
You need to do far more research before you continue with this project or you will be replacing that new motor shortly.
8psi on that 60-1 is NOT the same as 8psi on the stock turbo, that 60-1 is flowing more air than the stocker would at that boost.
Last edited by Juiceh; 08-05-07 at 11:31 AM.
08-05-07, 12:09 PM
#13
Have a look at this: Rtek7 Stage 2 ECU Upgrade
It is not a full stand alone like a microtech or haltech, but you can setup 4x720 injectors and control your fuel and timing maps through a pda. It costs $399 and the turn around time is about a week with shipping times. Best of all, you can datalog.
It is not a full stand alone like a microtech or haltech, but you can setup 4x720 injectors and control your fuel and timing maps through a pda. It costs $399 and the turn around time is about a week with shipping times. Best of all, you can datalog.
08-05-07, 02:22 PM
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okay cool ill look into that. I was thinking about the SAFC because it works well, and i have a lot of experience tuning one, and great results. Infact my talon went low 12's on an SAFC, so they are an effective tuning device. The Rtek seems to be the way to go, for the RX7 at least. And believe me, i know that 8psi on a 60-1 is a lot more than on the stocker, because of the CFM difference. This isnt my first time around the block with these things. I appreciate your guys help, thanks for all of the advice, well, the constructive advice at least...
08-05-07, 05:53 PM
#15
Did you rewire your fuel pump? Stock injectors is a bad call. You definately need at least upgraded secondarys. If I were you though I'd do 4 720's and run the Rtek 1.8 or whatever it is that will control it.
Also you should get a wideband on there. Innovate LC-1 is good and so is AEM. Or at least take it to a dyno and let them put their wideband on.
Also you should get a wideband on there. Innovate LC-1 is good and so is AEM. Or at least take it to a dyno and let them put their wideband on.
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