1RevvinFC3S

I have an S5 FC and its rolling onto 190k miles. In other words, I'm in need of a rebuild soon and I can get it built, bridged, and 3mm-ered for about $1700+/- versus built and streetported for about $1200. Now, my question is this- being the cheap bastard that I am, is the power difference between the sp and bp worth the extra $500? I'm not concerened with how long it will last, because I don't put much more than 10k on my car per year, so thats not an issue. I just want to know what kind of power I could expect with this, and the mods I have/ will have, which include- cone filter, 2.5" catless exhaust, e-fan, removed a/c, and maybe even a little laughing gas. Thanks for any input.
-Lucas

Travisty

200+

1RevvinFC3S

HOLY ****! Really? I figured maybe 190. What about fuel? I forgot to ask about injector size and management. I'd like to use some sort of piggyback unit, like a SAFC or something to tune it with.

EDIT: Oh, and maybe even the 6Port Turbo Kit from 1300cc.com

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

Just to let you know, if it will save you money (and i'm sure it will), I'd go with the 2mm seals.. There's been a lot of debates about it on the forum, and there's a LOT of people making serious, reliable power on the 2mm.. I'm saying that for an N/A at least, 3mm is probably a waste of money..

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

If this is going to be an N/A I would stick with Stock Seals, maybe atkins. If I remember Judge Ito usese atkins on his supper high revving N/A motors.

Your Definatly going to want to ditch the stock intake/exhaust manifolds and the stock ECU. As for the manifolds I would search on this site for the formula fpor calculating tuned runner lengths and make them that way.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

There's no real reason you can't make ~250 HP with a full bridge. But it will run very poorly on the stock ECU, since porting timing is so far from stock. The intake manifold will also become an issue, since by bridgeporting, you basically blow up all the dynamic tuning that Mazda has done.

So if you're going to go with any type of bridgeport, you're going to want to look at an EMS system.

Or, just make your own exhaust manifold that spaces the turbo out enough to clear the 6 port lower intake and save a tonne of money. But if you are going bridgeported anyway, you'll be wanting the TII intake (shorter runners) anyway...

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

Looking at the FC Yamaguchi book they had bridgeport 13B engines with carbs for road racing doing 290hp in the 70s. Presumably more radical engines could produce even more.

It's pretty much impossible for us to say if you should go with a "street port" vs. a bridgeport for the extra $500. It's tough to say how large either ports would be. The person you should be asking about the dimensions and power is the builder.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Why not tear it down yourself and bridge to what you want? It'll cost less then $1700.

Also you should probably move use a true CAI and a standalone. Or just listen to Aaron, I feel like I'm blowing hot air as I read the earlier posts.

1RevvinFC3S

You see, I'd like to do it myself, but I lack time, tools, and experience. I've only torn apart boingers and even then it was just head work. I want to have somebody with experience, like this guy who also happens to have a 10 sec RX-3 and built a badass T-78 FD for a guy that works at Circuit City in Ocala, to build my motor. I'm just uneasy about tinkering with my DD.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Ah, I know the feeling, I once had to pay someone to do a starter replacement .

I'de still do it myself to learn, mistakes happen, and I'm sure he has messed up before.

MPM

Having admitted that your a cheap bastard I'd suggest skipping a ported engine altogether. Unless ofcourse your going to do the rebuild yourself. I would expect an engine with 190K miles to have a good e-shaft in it. Nothing more. Rotor housings will most likely be unusable and the plates will atleast need lapping. You might want to step back an reevaluate what you can realistically get for $1200-1700.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

If you're going to go bridge and want to keep it cheap, use TII irons and ditch the 6ports. You won't be able to turbo this setup very easily since the stock turbo would be choked to **** in that situation, so you'd need to go with a full turbo (not very fitting for the budget). If you stay with the 6port setup, and go with a streetport and want to turbo later, find a better method than the spacer or hacking the **** out of the TII intakes. Yeah, I'm expensive, but you'll be hard pressed to beat my setup for flow!

Bukwild

1700 for the rebuild and port. Go ahead and plan for another 2000-2500 for full ems install and tune once breakin is complete. Oh and being a cheap bastard I thought I would let you know that you will be rebuilding this bridgeport about every 15-20k miles. They don't last long. Good luck

ultradef

This is not necessarily true...it really depends on the size of the bp. As long as you don't cut into the water jacket, I don't see why it wouldn't last as long as a street ported engine, or at least close to it.

You can also go with a half bridge, or a 1/3 bridge (on a six port) for a nice compromise of power, driveability, and reliability.