KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Last time it was like 2.5 quarts low at only 1500 miles, I do a driving job with my car (roadside assistance) and drive all day, I don't drive the car easy either, probably redline it a bit more than 3 times a day. I don't know if I have an oil leak or not, although I've never seen a puddle any of the times I've looked under the car after it sitting for a day.

Car is a 90 GXL with a Kevn Landers' factory rebuilt motor with supposedly 15,000 miles. Oil is Castrol GTX 10W30 non synthetic oil.

How often do you agressive drivers change your oil?

Rotarctica

10w30? Holy ****, what is it? 20 degrees there year round? Thin oil like that is going to burn more so than what you should really be using if it's cool to pretty hot there. 20w50 Castrol Non-Synthetic.

Driving like you do, you're going to burn more oil off, obviously. It IS possible to go through a quart in as little as 500 miles, according to the owners manual of these cars. My OMP is cranked up and I drove a 250 mile trip and burned off a 1/4 quart and some change. It was highway, with one redline hit and some 5krpm shifts. But mostly cruising at 80 mph at 3grand.

Switch to 20w50 and see if that changes things a bit for you

Edit: regardless of how I drive. Every 2,000 miles on the dot.

spot_skater

Manual even says 20w50 for MOST temperatures. It's in the FAQ, y0h.

Rotarctica

Then why is he not using it?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

S4 use mechanical OMP so the oil is proportionally metered. The s5 uses electronic OMP which has stepped oil delivery rates dependant on engine load. I do not know what the oil useage would be if you stay in the upper range of oil delivery.

My S5 vert uses about 1.5 qt per 1000 when I flog it, and I always flog it.

From the Sticky:
Lubricants and Cooling
My car seems to use a lot of oil. How often do I need to check it?

Everytime you get gas, you should check your oil level. The Rotary motor by design is supposed to inject oil into the engine based on throttle position. If you keep your foot on the gas a lot, you will use more oil. It is normal to use about 1 quart of oil every 1000 to 3000 miles.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...05#post5131205

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

WTF!

In starting and operating temperatures below 20F, use 5W30
In starting and operating temperatures between 0F and 80F, use 10W30.
In starting and operating temperatures above 30F, use 20W50

LOL, looks like I need to learn how to read. I just looked at the second one and figured since 50F is b/w 0 and 80 I'm good to go!

*goes to NAPA and exchanges oil

Thanks a lot buddies

Icemark

Oil consumption will vary based on engine load and thottle position on a S5. On a S3 and S4 it is stricktly based on throttle position.

So the more you hold the throttle down, the more you will use oil.

Normal usage would be a quart of oil for between 750-2000 miles.

As far as the wieghts...:


You can clearly see that 10W30 is fine for use in temps between 0F and 80F. As long as you are not starting and running in temps above 80F you should be just fine and probably will get a bit better gas mileage than 20W50. Of course if you are starting and running in temps above 30F I would recommend 15W40* or 20W50.

* Note: I do not recommend using 10W40 or 10W50 oils as the additive packages used to get that spread in visosity often can cause build up, sludge and ash issues in high reving motors

deadRX7Conv

Vehicle is oil injected. Viscosity won't make a difference to the metering amount. If oil consumption drops with the thicker oil, you have other issues.

On my '91, the owners manual doesn't even mention 20w50, 10w40, or 10w50. And, the thicker oil doesn't do anything but reduce power and MPG because the oil pump works harder.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

That's too high, even on 10w30. A search through these forums should tell you where to look for oil leaks. Off the top of my head there is a spot below the oil filter, the oil cooler and the dowel pins (in the engine). They're all easy to fix except for dowel pin leaks. Then you need an engine rebuild to fix it and you're better off paying for extra oil.

20w50 won't change the oil consumption due to oil injection but it will in fact slow down your oil leak because it is thicker.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

OK 20W50 it is, thanks guys.

Random question since my thread is done, my *!Brake* light on my idiot cluster lights up when I take a hard turn, why?

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

What? You're not going to look for the leak?

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

no because if i use thicker and thicker oil it will eventually go away kk.











ok I'm joking, its on the to-do list as soon as I get a hold of my buddie's shop. I looked at it last time and only noticed a bolt on the oil pan missing that didn't look like it could cause a leak to me. Now that I know what to look for I should be able to find it.

spot_skater

Check the brake fluid level.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

I did its not at the MAX but its not below MIN either, somewhere in the middle on the high side. Is that enough to cause the light on the dash? Just making it clear that it is the same light that comes on when I put my e-brake on.

lchaidez

iTrader: (4)

Dumb question but i need to know.

I live in LA, and i was wondering what oil i should be using? I was told 10w40, but after reading this im a bit confused. I have an NA, and tend to rev it alot (in most cases). Im about to perform the Oil Change on my car. Which oil should i use??

Current Oil in Car: Castrol 10w40 Non-Synthetic

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

It's in the FAQ, I think. 10w30 or 20w50. Usually 10w30 for the N/A, unless you have a bad leak like the poster or if it's often above 80 degrees F outside. Castrol GTX is good.

10w40 or 10w50 won't burn as clean because of the extra viscosity additives required to allow good viscosity across such a wide temperature range.

lchaidez

iTrader: (4)

i see i see.. thanks you very much!