MADBOOST

total thats impressive, but im confused as to why the many na fc's ive driven seem so dam slo with no obvious machanical failures.. ive dirven 3 or 4 diff ones and they were all stock and all the same slo speed, i juss dont understand why some other stock fc's i havent drivn are so much faster.... 15.2 is fast for intake and exhaust, i ran 15 flat wit my stocl 200 hp eclipse gst.. and that is faster than a stock GSR!!!!??? with intake and exhaust??? now that i think of it i dont believe it... im not calling you a liar, but im skeptical kuzz the integra gsr is a few hundread pounds lighter than a na fc, also the gsr has very very close gears, and it puts out 180 hp to the fly, so with your intake and exhaust you woulda had to pull some serious power gains to run 15.2 in my logical mind... well either way im not calling you a liar im jus the kind a guy that has to see to believe but good luck on that dyno and you give me some hope on my fc plans

MADBOOST

hey what makes the renisis motor put out so much power? is a swap gonna be doable or is it gonna be rocket surgery? for a fc

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

dude madboost the reason that the fd's are so unreliable is that mazda wanted to make the car as light as possible so very essential parts needed to prolong the life of the engine were made smaller. things like the intercooler and radiators plus with the twin sequentials the engine runs at what like 12 psi? but a stock tII only runs like 5.6 or 6.6 psi? so the engine is recieving twice as much stress. correct me if i'm wrong please! hope this helps

Icemark

Reni motors are making more HP mostly due to increased port size, increased redline, better electronics and engine control, and the ability to run leaner because of the exhaust port design.

The aux ports on a reni don't even come into play until around 6250 and the VDI not until 7500.

Unless you get the electronics, I can't see a reni swap even coming close to being practical, well alone the added complexity due to mounting

von

Madboost. Yes Ive beatn a few GST's with some mods. Remember I did dyno my FC and got 158rwp with do it yourself mods and stock ports. This is without the standalone. Mabey you can hit 180rwp with one on my car for instance? Then mild SP? mabey 200. My claims are accurate because I spent the dyno time.

With just full intake and exaust I got 141rwp before the headers. I got 154 with the headers before and after. Then when I leaned out the s-afc even more I got an extra 4 wich totolled 8rwp with the S-AFC alone.

This wasnt fast enoughf for me. I wanted a stand alone. Im sure you would get bored to. I was shifting at 8500rpms when I raced and beat alot of cars. But still 20rwp short of beating a VR4 and automatic TT supras hehe.

N/A FC's can get down to around 2300lbs. Mine was 2500 with full interior but stock I was 2800lbs GXL (heavy luxury model). Civics are around 23-2500lbs depending on yr/model. Unless your talking about the CRX. 14.7 with a B16 is ok. But I asure you I was going a bit faster in my N/A. Lots of tricks for the N/A that im sure your "slow" friends dont have. It just depends how much you like the stuff. Otherwise you might be better off getting a Civic. Do you do computers?

MADBOOST

hey guyz is what superstockt2 says true? that fd's came with smaller radiators and intercoolers than t2's" what else makes t2's more reliable than fd's? is that it? so if i uprade those two things a stock fd should last as long as a t2 with 240 hp? Icemark if you read this could you break it down to me

reddozen

fd's have 2mm axep seales as opposed to the fc's 3mm
fd is more of a pro car when it comes to drifting. also if your going to learn drifting in any RX model, be prepared to rip and rebuild your engine all the time... it can be fun, but also anoying when you've had to do it for the 10'th time ^_^ the deal with the AE86 is that it's an "underpowered" car so the only way to effectively sustain a drift is to keep it at WOT... heh... maybe you should look into "Keiichi Tsuchiya's "Drift Bible" it's a vid that'll give you some good pointers to learning... the streat is not a good place to pratice and stumps your learning curve. the first steps to drifting are mastering 180's, but not continual motion 180's.

set up a cone in a parking lot or something and space about 4-5 car widths and work on perfectly bysected 180's in both dirrections always stopping at the end of the cornor, and always ending in a perfect 180...

next using the same perfection work on 90's
after matering those work onto 360's after that you'll have the Throtle control to handel any drift app on the fly

^_^ just some rettoric from the drift king

also, note that the RX's are a pretty advanced car seeing as how they can be really prone to breaking easily. if your setting one up for drif i suggest converting it to pre-mix and lightning it up as much as posible... i've got my FC to under 2000 now... heh anything you wana know i'll do my best... PM me

reddozen

when i say learning on an RX model i just meen being the first car you try and drift effectivly

usually easier to start with another car... like a 240SX.. even if it does have and Altima moter here in the states

briandrennon

don't buy a Tornado, i bought one for my 89vert and the thing was total crap. I noticed no hp or mpg gains and the damn thing kept slipping out and getting stuck in the intake manifold(thats a hp loss). I even tryed a bigger one but would not fit. For $70(i think) it was a pile of crap.