How much $$ to hit 13's on turboII
#1
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How much $$ to hit 13's on turboII
I'm trying to decide between turboII, 4g63, and a 5.0. I know 4g63's can take some serious boost on stock internals, and a 5.0 is pretty easy to get into 13's with some basic mods and traction. TurboII, however, is hard to come across and i know that the engine is pretty fragile.
My goal is to be able to hit 13's on stock internals, stock turbo, and no engine porting. So my guestion is what has anyone spent to be able to run those numbers on somewhat daily driven car? And is it worth it at all to be messing with a high mileage turboII engine?
My goal is to be able to hit 13's on stock internals, stock turbo, and no engine porting. So my guestion is what has anyone spent to be able to run those numbers on somewhat daily driven car? And is it worth it at all to be messing with a high mileage turboII engine?
#2
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Re: How much $$ to hit 13's on turboII
Originally posted by BloodShotEyes
My goal is to be able to hit 13's on stock internals, stock turbo, and no engine porting.
My goal is to be able to hit 13's on stock internals, stock turbo, and no engine porting.
Intake/Exhaust
Remapped ECU or S-AFC
Larger injectors
Fuel Pump
Boost Controller
-Maybe FMIC.
&
Good driver or Slicks
#3
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i dont think you need all that just to hit 13's.
manual boost controller- $50
full exhaust - $700
TID and filter - $100
FCD - $100 or you can make your own for free
strip all the emmisions and a/c - free
walbro 255 - $100
those are the basic mods i have, and i can run high 13's now. so about a grand and you can have a high 13 sec t2.
manual boost controller- $50
full exhaust - $700
TID and filter - $100
FCD - $100 or you can make your own for free
strip all the emmisions and a/c - free
walbro 255 - $100
those are the basic mods i have, and i can run high 13's now. so about a grand and you can have a high 13 sec t2.
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http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...+fuel+pressure
here read through that
here read through that
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#9
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DelSlow, how much boost were you running to hit high 13's?
Ok, that does seem easy enough. The only thing i don't know is what TID and FCD stand for, other than that it all makes sence.
Can someone inform me on how well does a stock turboII motor with some miles on it can take abuse assuming it's properly tuned.
Thanks for everyones input.
Ok, that does seem easy enough. The only thing i don't know is what TID and FCD stand for, other than that it all makes sence.
Can someone inform me on how well does a stock turboII motor with some miles on it can take abuse assuming it's properly tuned.
Thanks for everyones input.
#10
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Buying a TII just for the reason of getting to the 13 second range is a bad idea in my opinion. Most of us own these cars because we have a passion for the rotary engine or where in love with rx7's. If you want a car specifically for drag racing i would get the 5.0.
Theres just to many reasons to own an rx7 than just drag racing.
Theres just to many reasons to own an rx7 than just drag racing.
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Well, i used to have a great ammount of passion for rotaries...still might have some left deep down inside, however, now i don't care if i use a **** on motor as some of you guys might say, or a rotor motor to go fast, as long as i do go fast without too much hussle or money spent. Turbo rotary is the only way i would stay with rotors, however, i do realize they might not be as bullet proof as i might want it to be.
I can really see your point RylAssasin
I can really see your point RylAssasin
#12
if you want to go cheap go with the 4g63 the 1st gen awd just need a boost contoler maf and an upper intercooler pipe, and your easily in the 13s, i have those same mods plus a clutch and exhaust and i just ran a 13.14 at 101. so if you want to go cheap and you like drag the dsm cars are the way to go, theres daily driven 10 sec. dsms all over the place with the stock bottom end.
#13
If you want to go fast for cheap stick to the 5.0, or the dsm if you like replacing trannies.
All I needed to get into the 13's:
walbro
3'' dp/mp combo (thunderfabrications)
cone filter on the stock TID
I was running about 10 pounds of boost
13.8/13.9 @101-102 all day long
All I needed to get into the 13's:
walbro
3'' dp/mp combo (thunderfabrications)
cone filter on the stock TID
I was running about 10 pounds of boost
13.8/13.9 @101-102 all day long
#14
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13.14@101, damn what kind of 60ft time was that with?
As far as DSM's and trannies, i couldn't agree more. I've got RS as a daily driver and i already went through one and i think the second one is soon ready to go out as well. Also the whole chassi on those cars sucks as well. The only two good things i like about them is they come with AWD and i hear a lot of good things about 4g63's being almost bullet proof.
As far as DSM's and trannies, i couldn't agree more. I've got RS as a daily driver and i already went through one and i think the second one is soon ready to go out as well. Also the whole chassi on those cars sucks as well. The only two good things i like about them is they come with AWD and i hear a lot of good things about 4g63's being almost bullet proof.
#15
I think you have to ask yourself what you want the car to do really. Are you are looking for a drag racer for the track, i.e. not street legal or are you talking this is something that you will take to the drag strip every once in a while and you will be racing this light to light.
If you want a light to light racer. Get a mustang LX 5.0
with a blown motor. Get them all day for 2k. Then buy a crate 351 and strap a whipple supercharger on it and run 8lbs of boost. You will never loose a drag race on the street. that should have you running 550hp safely
for around 8k, and every once and a while when you bring it to the track you should lay down high 9's low 10's all day.
If you want a light to light racer. Get a mustang LX 5.0
with a blown motor. Get them all day for 2k. Then buy a crate 351 and strap a whipple supercharger on it and run 8lbs of boost. You will never loose a drag race on the street. that should have you running 550hp safely
for around 8k, and every once and a while when you bring it to the track you should lay down high 9's low 10's all day.
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