kel

I put a switch under the dash that turned off power to the fuel injectors, and that worked fairly well.

But, when I read about the 3b wire interrupt, it made more sense, so I moved the switch to open/close that circuit. Works perfectly every time. I wouldn't suggest cutting it because I found that sometimes I need the circuit on and sometimes off. with it off, also, you have to crank it forever and two days to get it to light up in cool weather.

Also helps on cold days with my 240,000 TII engine that is getting a little compression-tired.

- k -

Nickatina7

rx7.com has all of the answers to flooding issues.

dennis blackstone

iwent to rx7.com this is what i found ...also 240000on a t2 thats excellant,,,,,,,,,,,,,heres there page.....













86-91 Turbo and Non-Turbo Unflooding procedure

We have included some background information on this condition to help avoid the situation in the future. The actual unflooding procedure has been divided into two segments. One is an easy “three-step” process which can be done by anyone. It is effective in 90% of all flooded conditions. This procedure should always be tried before attempting the complex process. Since the complex process involves pulling the spark plugs, only people with adequate tools and mechanical aptitude should attempt it.


Common Symptoms

Vehicle was running fine the last time I parked it, but now it won’t start.
I can hear the engine rotating, but it sounds strange. Also, I smell gasoline.
I moved my car from the garage to the street, turned it off and now it won’t start.
I left my car with a friend and they moved it. Now it won’t start.
My car has been sitting for a long time and won’t start.

Background
The RX-7 (especially 1986 and newer) is well known for flooding problems. One of the most common is caused by a “short start” condition. The “short start” is when someone starts the vehicle and turns it off before it is allowed to reach full operating temperature. The typical situation is moving the vehicle from one parking spot to another(ex: from garage to driveway). Cooler weather, especially temperatures below 70 degrees, aggravate the situation. What has happened, is the engine is still in the cold-start warmup cycle. Due to a fluke in the engine management’s fuel injection computer, if the engine is shut off during this cycle, it is highly likely the engine will flood itself out the next time the engine is cranked. It does not matter whether you wait one hour or one week, the computer will wait for you the next time it’s started. Once again, this is not something that will present itself as a problem every time you short-start the car. Of certainty, the problem will not occur if the short-start situation is always avoided and the vehicle is in proper mechanical condition. If consistent starting problems are experienced outside of the short-start situation, service is probably needed to the vehicle.


Rules of thumb

You will have to actively unflood the vehicle. RX-7s WILL NOT unflood themselves, even if allowed to sit for long periods of time.
DO NOT pump the gas pedal at any time while cranking the engine.
If the vehicle doesn’t start within 5 seconds of cranking it’s probably not going to start without unflooding.
If car is heavily flooded, spark plug replacement and oil changing may be required.
There is no cure for the short start problem other than the discipline to avoid the situation
ALWAYS ALLOW THE VEHICLE TO REACH FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURE BEFORE TURNING ENGINE OFF


Easy 3-Step Method(1986 - 91)

PREPARATION
Battery needs to still have a reasonable charge. If engine is cranking slowly, please charge battery first or connect jumper cables.

STEP ONE
Locate main fuse box next to battery under the hood.
Pull innermost fuse from fuse box and leave out. Lid will have fuse labeled as “EGI Comp” for 1986-88 models and just “EGI” for 89-91 models. Note: some models have empty spaces for options on vehicle. There will be no fuses in these spots.

STEP TWO
Once fuse is pulled and left out, get back inside vehicle. Hold accelerator pedal to the floor and crank for 15-20 seconds. Vehicle will not start during this procedure. Remember, it is key to this procedure that you hold the accelerator down and crank the engine at the same time.

STEP THREE
Turn ignition off and go back to the main fuse box. Place innermost fuse back in place and get back in vehicle. Try to start vehicle like normal WITHOUT touching the accelerator at all. If vehicle doe not start within FIVE SECONDS, it’s not going to start without doing the “three-step” method again. Sometimes this procedure has to be done five or six times to get vehicle started. If vehicle still won’t start, make sure battery is charged adequately or proceed to complex process, if your mechanical abilities allow.
Note: Vehicle will smoke heavily for awhile after startup. The more flooded the engine, the longer it will smoke.



Complex Unflooding Procedure(1986 - 91)

Note: This procedure is only to be done by persons with adequate tools and experience. Also, it is intended to be done after attempts to unflood with the Easy 3-step Method have failed.

TOOLS

Standard 13/16 spark plug socket and ratchet
One quart automatic transmission fluid(ATF)-any type
Oil squirter, fluid bulb(like a baster), or funnel with hose
NGK spark plug set(if needed)

PREPARATION

Battery needs to still have a reasonable charge. If engine is cranking slowly, please charge battery first or connect jumper cables.

STEP ONE
Locate main fuse box next to battery under the hood.
Pull innermost fuse from fuse box and leave out. Lid will have fuse labeled as “EGI Comp” for 1986-88 models and just “EGI” for 89-91 models. Note: some models have empty spaces for options on vehicle. There will be no fuses in these spots.

STEP TWO
Engine has (4)spark plugs arranged in a square pattern on the drivers side of engine. Please label each plug wire and remove all four plugs. Note: It is absolutely imperative that the wires be able to go back onto the correct spark plug hole when the procedure is completed. Also, make sure plug wires are out of the way of the accessory belts to avoid tangling when engine cranked in step three.

STEP THREE
Make sure all spark plugs are out of engine, EGI fuse pulled, and plug wires out of way of accessories and belts. Get back in vehicle, hold accelerator on floor and crank for 15-20 seconds. It is very important that the accelerator be held to floor during this process. Note: You will see lots of gasoline vapor misting in engine compartment. This is normal and will diminish during cranking process. Engine obviously will not start at this time.

STEP FOUR
Place approximately one ounce of automatic transmission fluid(ATF) into each of the bottom two spark plug holes. This will be difficult, but ABSOLUTELY necessary. The fluid will relubricate the chambers of the engine and allow it to build compression. Use any type ATF and any reasonable means to get fluid into engine.
Examine original spark plugs. Clean and dry carefully, if still in acceptable condition. Use a brand new set of NGK plugs, if necessary.
Install plugs and reattach spark plug wires. Note: As mentioned before, it is absolutely imperative that the right wire go to the right hole. Wires can be traced one-by-one from their coil connection. Each coil connection has labeled L1, L2, T1 or T2. Remember T stands for top, L for lower, 1 for front and 2 for rear. Also remember, there are different plugs for the top and bottom plugs. The ones with the blue banding at the insulator tip are the top two.

STEP FIVE
Place innermost fuse back in place at the main fuse box. Get back in vehicle and try to start vehicle like normal WITHOUT touching the accelerator at all. Engine should start almost immediately. On rare occasions, this procedure has to be repeated.
Note: Vehicle will smoke EXTREMELY heavily for awhile after startup. The more flooded the engine, the longer it will smoke.
Once engine has warmed up completely and battery has had some time to charge, turn engine off and restart. Engine should start normally. It is highly recommended to change the oil as soon as possible. Oil becomes heavily gasoline contaminated from the flooding.

NZConvertible

In my experience this is simply not necessary. I've made dozens of short trips that didn't get the engine to full operating temp, with no subsequent flooding. As long as the engine runs for ~30 seconds, turning it off before then won't cause flooding. The only two times short-starting caused my engine to flood it had run for less than 10 sec.

Good way to burn out a starter motor, or at the very least shorten its lifespan. 10 seconds at a time max, which is more than long enough to do the job anyway.

It's not necessary to remove the trailing plugs. Leaving them alone removes any risk of replacing the wires incorrectly, which they point out would be very bad. It doesn't actually matter which way the leading plugs are connected.

Ugh, damn ATF again...

I bought a small oil squirt can with a flexible nozzle. This made the task of getting oil into the spark plug holes very easy.

RotaMan99

I was going to say the exact same thing NZ about the ATF but figured there would be an endless debat about it. People really need to stop passing this great ATF fix around.

yozsi

we had a few customers that would complain about no starting on old rx7's. i told em before they shut down, bring the rpm's to about 4k and turn the ign switch off and hold their foot to the floor. works like a charm. they were able to restart every time.

dennis blackstone

in some of the flooding issue people use ATF ...DO NOT USE ..... some of these archive may say this but there old i want some of the newbies to be aware if you read archives like these the ATF is a no\no use regular engine oil (common sense) but yhou shouldnt have to only in emergancy just read some of the threads and learn about how flooding occurs and how to prevent it these cars are old and alot of parts are tired so keep up with maintance

RotaMan99

So you changed your mind?

dennis blackstone

ive never ever ever used ATF TO GET MY CAR TO START these are archives of other menbers who had flooding hotstart flooding issue and it may say atf ,like in some of my post ive said i used 20w 50 oil to start my car but im not worried about hotstarts and flooding because i have resolved my problem with the help of nzconvertable and HAILERS this thread is to help newbies so if they see a thread with ATF in it they know not to use it, but the main thing is i resolved my problem with the help of members on this board ..ROTAMAN99 let me tell you it was easier rebiuding my 13b than figuring out this hotstart flooding problem

dennis blackstone

The starter is wired directly to the positive battery cable. Switching the starter motor on and off is accomplished by an electromagnet called the starter solenoid. Turning the key activates the solenoid, which does two things. First it slides a gear (connected to the starter motor) in place to mesh with a matching set of teeth around the engine flywheel. Then it moves a metal "contact plate" to complete the electrical circuit between the battery and the starter motor. This circuit requires clean electrical connections between the starter motor, both battery cables, and the engine. Hopefully, the starter motor starts to spin and the engine cranks. When the ignition key is released, the solenoid returns to its original position, breaking the electrical circuit, and removing the gear from the flywheel.


As usual, Mazda has their own way of naming things. The gear connected to the starter motor is called the "pinion" gear in the shop manual -- probably to complement the "ring" gear which circles the flywheel. This is technically correct, but most mechanics refer to the gear on the starter motor as the "Bendix" gear, after the man who invented the engagement mechanism. In the shop manual, the solenoid is referred to variously as the "magnetic switch," or "magnet switch."


Troubleshooting the starting functions of the car is best done in three phases. First the battery and its connections must be checked. Then, depending on your particular problem, you can look at either the large battery cables that power the starter motor, or the smaller circuit which activates the solenoid.


THE BATTERY


Since it is central to the entire operation, the first thing to check is the battery. An ailing battery can give you differing symptoms depending on what is wrong with it. Slow cranking and dim lights, are typical of a battery that isn't up to snuff. A nearly dead battery can give you no cranking at all -- just a clicking sound. You can also check the voltage meter on your car with the key on and the engine off. You should see around 12 volts. With the engine idling, but no electrical accessories on, you can see as high as 13.8 volts.


If you suspect that your battery is not doing its job, the best way to test it is "under load," simulating what the battery must do when the starter motor is cranking the engine. It takes a special machine to do that, so take the battery to a shop that specializes in batteries, or a good garage. Be advised that a battery can put out acceptable voltage at rest, and still not perform properly under load.


As part of checking the battery, pay particular attention to the terminals -- the clamps that hold the cables to the battery posts. Strange as it may seem, it only takes a thin film of corrosion to block or severely inhibit flow of electricity to and from the battery.


Here is how to clean the terminals. Working with these connections can be hazardous if you are not careful, so heed the warnings as we go along.



Remove both battery cables from the battery.


Check to be sure the terminal is attached tightly to the cable itself.


Use sandpaper or a commercial battery terminal cleaner to clean the terminals and the battery posts. You must see bright metal on the mating surfaces.


Apply a thin coating of petroleum jelly to the battery post, or use a commercial corrosion inhibiting product.


Replace the connectors on the battery posts.


The posts are slightly conical, so if the terminal is still loose after being tightened all the way, loosen it up again, spread it a little with a screwdriver, and maybe tap it lightly so that it clamps down more toward the base of the post.


PROBLEMS ASSOCIATED WITH BATTERY CABLES


When a battery cable goes bad, or a connection gets dirty, the effect is like an electrical traffic jam. The cables can't pass electricity fast enough to power the starter motor. Thus, when you turn the key, you hear a loud click from the solenoid, but there is not enough current to crank the engine.


The first task is to clean all connections associated with the cables. For safety, remove both cables at the battery before proceeding. Otherwise, you risk handling live cables, and the results can be a shower of sparks. Put the front of the car up on jack stands, or a ramp. Do not rely on a jack alone if you are under the car.


The first connection to check is the positive battery cable, where it terminates at the solenoid (located on the starter motor). The battery cable is the one on the left, covered with a rubber boot. Remove the cable and sand the connecting surface until it is bright. Replace the cable. While you are working in that area, you will notice a smaller wire terminating with a clip connector on the solenoid. This carries electricity from the ignition circuit, activating the solenoid when you turn the key. Might as well pull it off and clean up the post. You can also squeeze the female end attached to the wire if it no longer makes a tight connection.


While you are looking at the aft end of the solenoid, consider that the two large terminal posts are the ones connected by the metal plate when the solenoid is activated. If you look carefully, and have enough light, you will be able to see that the large post on the right has a wire attached to it which runs into the starter motor. Now let's go to the negative battery cable -- the ground strap.


The ground strap is part of every electrical circuit in the car, so if it is internally corroded, or if the connections are dirty, everything will be affected to one extent or another. This includes lights, starting, and other things we don't usually think of, such as engine management computers and the various relays and small solenoids which serve switching and control functions. Some of these systems are mounted to the body. Others are mounted to the engine, so the ground strap is connected to both. As you can tell by the thickness of the wire going to the starter solenoid, powering the starter motor requires more electrical flow than any other electrical function, so any weakness in the ground strap is likely to show up there first.


The ground strap is connected to the engine. Mid-way down the cable is the connection to the body -- typically part way down the driver's side shock tower. Remove the connections, sand until bright (including the mating surface in the shock tower), and replace. Third generations cars have another ground strap from the exhaust to the body. While a fault at this connection will not cause a starting problem, some owners have reported problems if this cable is not clean and solid.


Replace the connections at the battery, and try to start the car.


If this doesn't fix the problem, the next step is to test for internal corrosion in the cables. There is some possibility that the cables are corroded, but in the process of cleaning the terminals, you have caused enough internal friction to rub away some of the corrosion. In this case, the car might start, but exhibit the same problem at a later time. When the cables crud up internally, it is hidden underneath the insulation. Also, you can't test for corrosion with a volt meter because even a badly corroded cable will provide plenty of voltage to produce a reasonable reading. The best approach is to substitute a jumper cable (the ones you might use to jump start the car with a dead battery) for the cable you want to test. Here is how:


To test the ground strap, first disconnect the ground strap at the battery to expose the negative battery post. Connect one end of your jumper to a clean, unpainted place on the engine. Connect the other end to the negative battery post. Try to start the car. If you have no luck with that, remove the jumper cable from the engine and connect it to the body via an unpainted bolt or other piece of unpainted metal. Try to start the car again. If the car starts in either case, you need a new ground strap. You can get something close at a local parts store, or get the genuine Mazda part from Mazdatrix or your usual source of parts. It saves time to use a Mazda part because it has provisions for the body and engine connections. If the car doesn't respond to substituting a jumper cable for the ground strap, move on to the positive battery cable.


Testing the positive battery cable is a little more tricky. We want to avoid sparks, so the first thing to do is to remove the positive battery cable at the battery. Next, clamp one end of your jumper cable to the left hand post at the solenoid (where the stock cable is connected). Be very sure the clamp is ONLY touching the terminal post (including the stuff connected to it) and NOT anything else. Nothing on the body, nothing on the engine, nothing on the starter motor. Any contact with a ground such as those mentioned will result in a shower of sparks when you connect the jumper cable at the battery. To double check that you have a clean connection at the starter, bring the other end of the cable near the positive battery terminal and quickly brush it across. If you get no reaction, it is safe to clip it to the battery terminal. If you get sparks, recheck the connection at the solenoid. Once the jumper is in place, try to start the car. If the car starts, replace both battery cables (the negative cable, if not bad already, will go bad soon).


If the car still won't crank and you still get the click from the solenoid when you turn the key on, the problem is probably within the solenoid or the starter motor itself. You can check the solenoid with a test light or volt meter by clipping one connector to a ground on the engine or body, and the other to the right hand terminal on the solenoid (the one with the wire leading inside the starter motor). All connections of the battery cables are normal for this test. Turn the key to start. If the solenoid is good, you should see twelve volts or so on the meter. If you are using a test light, it should illuminate. If the solenoid seems good, it may be time to pull the starter motor and have it checked.


PROBLEMS ASSOCIATED WITH THE SOLENOID ACTIVATION CIRCUIT


If you turn the key and nothing happens -- not even a loud "click" from under the car, and if you have properly checked the battery and cables, you may not be getting power to the solenoid. Here is how that circuit works -- at least on a 1st generation car. Later models are probably similar in concept, but I have not researched it.


As usual, we start from the positive terminal of the battery. In addition to the thick wire which goes to the starter, there is another wire that supplies power for virtually everything else. This wire goes to the fuse box under the hood. First generation cars don't have a fuse box in the traditional sense, relying instead on what Mazda calls "fusible links." These are actually little U-shaped wires, loosely covered with cloth, and designed to burn through in the event a short circuit draws too much electricity through them. The box of fusible links is mounted to the front of the driver's side strut tower. Since later generations of Rx-7s have a proper fuse box, they are less troublesome in this regard.


The fusible link marked "Main" is in the electrical path going to the dash board and ignition key. When you turn the key to "start" electricity is sent to the starter solenoid via the small clip-on connector located between the two large connecting terminals.


If turning the key to "start" results in the dash lights going out, you probably have a problem with the fusible links. Disconnect the positive battery terminal at the battery. I suggest removing the box of fusible links and cleaning all connections while you are there. Pay particular attention to the clip connections on the fusible links themselves. Remove, clean, and tighten the connection where the battery power comes in. Do not throw away a broken fusible link. You can get an in-line fuse holder from an auto parts store, but the size of the clip connector is not easy to find. You may have to solder the connector from the old fusible link on to the new fuse holder. A fuse holder is not a bad idea for the "main" circuit since fusible links (while not known to be particularly troublesome) are out in the open, and vulnerable to clumsy hands. Don't ask how I know.


If turning the key to "start" does not effect the dash warning lights, you will want to verify that the solenoid has power coming to it to activate the electromagnet. First, clean and tighten the clip-on connector at the solenoid. Next, check to see if it is getting power by putting a meter or circuit light between the wire and ground (an unpainted part on the engine or body). Turning the key to "start" should light the light, or register 12+ volts on the meter.


If the solenoid IS getting power, but not activating (no click) you may have a bad solenoid. The shop manual says you can check for continuity between the right hand post and the body of the solenoid. They illustrate this with the solenoid separated from the starter and off the car. At least remove the positive battery cable at the battery end. Remove all three cables from the solenoid terminals. Set your meter for resistance, or use a continuity checker. Check for continuity between the right hand post and the body of the solenoid. If you get no continuity, the solenoid is bad. Although the shop manual says to "replace the switch," I would not be surprised if you had to buy the whole starter/solenoid assembly. Just a hunch.


If the solenoid is NOT getting power, you may have a mechanical or electrical problem with the ignition switch itself.


HOW TO PEP UP YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM


A respected Rx-7 mechanic says that no car leaves his shop without the following simple modifications done to the electrical system. All are done with 8 or 10 gauge wire. You can secure the wire to the battery terminals using the terminal clamps, or you can get clamps which have provisions for extra wiring -- as you might find with a complex auto sound system.


Run two new ground wires. One goes from the engine to the negative battery terminal. The other goes from a bolt or bare-spot on the chassis to the negative battery terminal. The additional ground paths will provide a little cushion for the stock wiring which is marginal when new. This has been known to solve low voltage problems at the cigarette lighter -- the kind that gives you low voltage warnings on cell phones or Valentine One radar detectors. The V-1 detectors will show a false "laser alert" if you try to power it with low voltage.


Run one new wire between the alternator output (the wire secured by a nut) and the positive terminal of the battery. This parallels the stock wire and makes it "easier" for the alternator to recharge the battery. With both these modifications, you should see at least 13.8 volts at on your dashboard volt meter when at idle (but without other electrical loads).


THE GRINDING NOISE


At the beginning of this article, I spoke of a grinding noise you get sometimes when you try to start the car. Most often, you can just turn the key off and try again. Sometimes it takes several attempts to get the car to crank. Grinding occurs when the gear teeth of the starter motor and the flywheel ring gear fail to engage. The starter motor powers up and the gears grind against each other. Over time, this erodes the matching surfaces (bevels) on both gears, making the engagement process progressively more difficult. While there may be a mechanical reason for the problem, in many cases something is marginal in the electrical system. For instance, it may be that the solenoid is not getting enough power to solidly place the bendix gear in mesh with the ring gear. In that case, cleaning up the circuit supporting the solenoid will help. Another possibility is that there is a problem with the ground strap, making the circuit sluggish. In that case, working with the ground strap as previously described (or replacing it) will help. Certainly, installing the suggested supplemental wiring will have a positive effect, as it increases the available ground path. If the car usually cranks normally, and occasionally grinds, I would troubleshoot this particular problem in the following order (taking care to use the precautions mentioned in the earlier text).



Clean and tighten the clip lead to the solenoid.


Install the supplemental wiring


Replace ground strap.


I actually replaced a starter motor because of the grinding problem, but it did not go away. As I worked through the above items (trying to solve another problem) the grinding became progressively more rare.

dennis blackstone

just a short story while i had flooding problems which i fixed i had also had a problem with smoking with my t3\t4 it was faily knew so wondered what was going on i just rebuilt the motor myself so i called bryan at bnr and he told me to vent the nipple on the oil spout and vent the nipple on the middle iron voila no more smoking i know this has nothing to do with flooding but i had to vent..... my seven is coming together now my flooding has stoped my smoking has stopped so now im confident im going to put my fmic and i need a 3rd gen alternator

dennis blackstone

Spark Plug Comparison

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Currently just about everybody uses NGK plugs. This is because they are standard equipment and other choices aren't explored. If you don't explore other choices how do you know what your using is the best, or for that matter, any good at all. This is why I undertook this research. Each set of plugs was tested in my daily driven car. I am testing every plug I can get my hands on. If you know of another brand that offers plugs for the 7 let me know. If you're new to Rx-7s you should know that the plugs need to be replaced every 5 to 30 thousand miles depending on your mods and driving style. I change mine every 6 to 12K. This is because unlike normal engines the rotary engine places much higher thermal stresses on the spark plugs as well as burning oil.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NGK


For this test I used straight Platinum 9s for 9000 miles. Carbon build-up was really bad. The electrode which starts out flat on the top was rounded off. I should have changed these plugs out sooner. Performance was suffering and my idle wasn't perfect but still ok. It was a bit like a slight backfire sound coming from the exhaust. I didn't even notice it until I put the new plugs in and there was a sudden difference. Both the leading and trailing position plugs looked the same. Here is a new picture of the plugs. The left one was a leading and the right was a trailing. The corner that is whitish on the left one is where some of the carbon flaked off as I was taking them out. I wanted to know if it would have blown my engine had it come off while the engine was running so I took the flake and shoved it through the spark plug hole. Yea right! Like I said, I should have changed these sooner. I haven't heard of carbon from plugs blowing an engine but I have heard of carbon flaking off of the other parts like the rotors and then getting wedged between the apex seals. This is normally in cars that are driven short distances repeatedly like 2 miles to work every day. I usually go at least 10 and normally around 30 miles in a trip.



NGK also makes standard non-platinum plugs and racing plugs. I have also tested the standard plugs along side some Platinum plugs and could see no difference. Below is a listing of NGK plugs that can be used in rotary engines.



Plug
Part #
Retail $

Normal 7 BUR7EQ 6.40
Normal 9 BUR9EQ 6.40
Platinum 7 BUR7EQP 7.60
Platinum 8 BUR8EQP 7.60
Platinum 9 BUR9EQP 7.60
Racing 9 R6725-9 36.04
Racing 10.5 R6725-105 25.74
Racing 11 R6725-11 25.74
Racing 11.5 R6725-115 25.74
Old 9 BR9EQ14 6.11
Iridium 7 Alt BR7EIX 6.95
Iridium 8 Alt BR8EIX 6.95
Iridium 9 Alt BR9EIX 6.95
Iridium 10 Alt BR10EIX 6.95
Rx-8 7 RE7A-L
Rx-8 8 RE8A-L
Rx-8 9 (Short) RE9B-T

BR9EQ14 used in earlier rotary engines.
Another version had 3 ground electrodes.
Also available in other heat ranges.



Some People are reporting good results using BR*EIX Iridium plugs,
which are for motorcycles and snowmobiles. A special thin walled socked is required to install them though.



Rx-8 trailing plugs are shorter.
I have heard people are having good results in the Rx-7 with these plugs.






--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

HKS


HKS Platinum: For this test I used HKS Platinum heat range 8 plugs in the leading position and NGK 9s in the trailing. I figured this way I would be able to tell if there were any abnormal conditions that caused the HKS plugs to perform differently by comparing the NGK plugs to the old ones. I drove my car 5000 miles with two track events. Carbon build-up was still bad however the HKS plugs electrode held up much better. It is much smaller than the NGK electrode as well. In theory a smaller electrode is better for a normal plug. After seeing the amount of carbon I decided to try to clean the plugs. The NGK plugs wouldn't come clean at all but the carbon on the HKS plugs was easy to scrape off. I decided to reuse these plugs to see how well they work after such a cleaning. The only reason I did this so soon is because I had a hell of a time getting my HKS Iridium plugs. Anyway I got a new camera so was able to take some pictures this time. The plugs were in there for 6000 miles with one autoX and my dyno time. Carbon build-up wasn't as bad this time for some reason. The plugs were also white in more areas, which indicates I'm running lean. Perhaps it's due to a change in driving habits, more highway miles, or a real problem. I'll know when I get my car dynoed later on. Overall they still look better than the new NGK plugs I put in there with them. I preferred these plugs over all the others I tested but unfortunately they are no longer produced.


HKS on the left, NGK on the right.

HKS Iridium: These plugs are the racing style with an ultra small electrode. I used heat range 9 in the leading position and the normal NGK 9s in the trailing. Apparently these plugs are suppose to be the best out there but I really couldn't tell a difference. Maybe there was a horse power increase but until I have money to burn I can't afford to dyno every plug out there. Anyway these plugs were in there for a little over 6000 miles and didn't look good at all. Both plugs had large places where carbon flaked off. For a daily driven car these plugs aren't an ideal choice, thus "racing" plugs. Also after testing the Denso Iridium plugs I learned that these are re-badged Denso plugs.


Front Rotor on Left, Rear on Right

Here are the HKS rotary plugs that are available with part numbers if you want to try them.



Plug Part # Retail $
Platinum 8 5408-F40RE -
Platinum 9 5408-F45RE -
Platinum 10 5408-F50RE -
Platinum 11 5408-F55RE -
Iridium 9 5408-R45RE 35
Iridium 10 5408-R50RE 35
Iridium 10.5 5408-R525RE 35
Iridium 11 5408-R55RE 35



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GReddy
I haven't even bought these plugs yet. Very few people use them. They are nothing more than NGK racing plugs.




Plug Part #
GReddy 9 13000049
GReddy 10 13000050
GReddy 11 13000051


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Torque Master


These plugs are custom made and have a different spark pattern that has been proven to increase performance in piston engines. They are much smaller than the other plugs but have a much much bigger electrode. So here is how the story on these unique plugs goes. I tested them for 6 thousand miles and one autocross. Near the end of testing I was reading posts on a forum and found a guy that had the tip of one of these plugs break off in his engine. He had only 2000 miles and two drag races on them. He had them put in by Pettit, which was also testing them in several other cars. It was found that several of the plugs in the other cars were also cracking. Torque Master would not pay the bill for the new engine and turbo but Pettit did. The part that cracked off in these cases is called the Ground Electro-Ring and is the part around the electrode. Later, when I contacted Torque Master they said the cause of this is a lean running motor. I consulted Dave at KD rotary and he confirmed that he saw a car or two with broken Torque Master plugs and they were running lean. The person with the broken plugs reported they were "awfully black, like they had been burned in the engine". However this does not negate this problem. Update: I have discovered that "hispanic non certified welders" could also be the cause of this problem. The plugs should not be the weak link in the rotary engine, it should remain the apex seals. I figure that because of the fact that the Ground Electro-Ring is raised and supported by four points it might not be able to dissipate enough heat or perhaps doing so unevenly. Dave said he thinks they are a good idea but that the materials used aren't standing up to the high heat levels of a turbocharged rotary engine. So what did I find in my engine? Well the Ground Electro-Rings were fine and the plugs held up much better than the others tested. Carbon buildup was minor and the electrode wasn't all worn down. However, one of the plugs had a cracked off part of ceramic that goes around the electrode. Thankfully it didn't enter the engine because it didn't fit through the gap between the Ground Electro-Ring and electrode. Torque Master said this is caused by improper timing and that "the ceramics are made by the same people". Well, I have never had this problem with other brands. So my conclusion is that these plugs are better but have the risk of breaking. If they were redesigned I'm sure they would be the best however until they are buy at your own risk. They were $20.00 each plus shipping. For the complete conversations with the owner of the broken plug and Torque Master click here. Update: Torque Master just sent me a free set of plugs! This set has a solid ground electrode ring (the four hole were not cut out), which should prevent cracking and might protect the ceramic a bit more from the combustion chamber. I might re-test these plugs but not until I finish testing all the other brands.



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Denso


NGK seems to lead in the market but Denso is also a big name in spark plug technology marked by their extensive product offerings and technology such as using Iridium. Normally big business doesn't take much interest in the little guy like me but Denso surprised me when an engineer from their Europe division contacted me. This was the second company to contact me, the first being BRISK, below. In my book I give a lot of respect to a company when they are willing to take the time to directly interact with part of the community they serve. This can be anything from sponsoring a small time SCCA racer to posting some information on a public forum to answering a letter. Click here to view a very informative document Denso sent me on the history of their rotary spark plug development. In addition to this letter the engineer told me they have developed a new rotary plug designed for the renesis rotary engine found in the Rx-8. They should hit the market late in 2004. (This info is for general purposes only and no rights can be derived from it.) In the chart below you will see the part numbers for these new plugs.

After testing these I was informed by a vendor that they are the same plugs offered by HKS. I tested the HKS plugs earlier and they do look identical. So apparently HKS racing plugs are re-badged Denso plugs. I wasn't very happy with the results of either test. Carbon buildup had a tendency to flake off of these plugs and my idle was a bit rough from the start. I had these plugs in for over 12K miles and it shows. I also ran two autoXs on them. I won't be wasting my money on any more racing plugs unless I'm racing. Here is what the Denso engineer had to say regarding this test.

"The new HKS iridium RX7 spark plugs indeed share the Denso iridium technology. ... You were concerned about the carbon flaking off on the HKS iridium plugs, but this is not the important part of the plug. As long as your insulator is not fouled with carbon, the thin electrode iridium plugs will always outperform other style of plugs. The ground electrode of one of the plugs shows some deposits. This is strange and reminds me of 2-stroke racing engines that have burned too much oil."




Front Rotor on left, rear on right.
While I was doing some research on NGK non-platinum plugs I stumbled across a cross reference to some other Denso plugs designed for Rotary engines. There is virtually zilch info on these plugs anywhere but from what I can gather they were an alternative to the early NGK SD10A and SD11A plugs that were later updated to the current BUR7EQ and BUR9EQ. One cross reference did however list these plugs as an alternative to the current NGK plugs. Obtaining info such as heat range and application was nearly impossible even when I called Denso. They had zero info but then again they also had zero info on their Iridium plugs. So after doing several cross references I deduced the first heat ranges listed below. The numbers in the part numbers however correspond to slightly colder plugs. See chart below. The picture above is a S31A plug I bought to see what they look like. It's very similar to the other surface gap plugs I have tested. The electrode is a bit higher and the ceramic comes further up. Naturally the ground electrode ring isn't divided in to four sections. I plan on testing these a bit down the road.

The plug to the left is an example of an earlier design for rotary engines similar to the ones offered by NGK. Again there were versions with 3 ground electrodes and naturally there are additional heat ranges from what is listed in the chart below. There is more information on the theory behind these plugs in the document from Denso.



Plug Part #
NGK Ref#
Retail $
Iridium 9 IRE01-27
35.30
Iridium 10 IRE01-31
35.30
Iridium 10.5 IRE01-32

Iridium 11
IRE01-34

Normal 7-9 S29A SD10A 8.00
Normal 9-10 S31A SD11A 8.00
Unknown SD29A SD10A
Unknown SD29
Unknown SD27
Old 9 W27EDR14 BR9EQ14 5.25
Rx-8 8 IRL-27 RE8A-L
Rx-8 9 IRL-31
Rx-8 9 (Short) IRT-31 RE9B-T
Rx-8 10 (Short) IRT-34


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BRISK



After testing every plug I could get my hands on I thought I had pretty much concluded my spark plug testing when I was approached by the Prenco Development Coordinator Garrett Simpson regarding a new line of plugs. BRISK spark plugs are made in the Czech Republic and have been around since the 1930s. This company really impressed me and I'm sure we will be seeing more of them in America soon. I have seen testing that indicated that these plugs provide a solid boost in performance for piston engines but unfortunately they are not suitable for the rotary engine. Here are two interesting sites if you want to learn more about these plugs for your other cars. http://plugs.janmax.com/ BRISK Tábor




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Autolite



I was able to find one example of a rotary plug produced by Autolite however this one design, part number 2626, was designer for early rotary engines and is apparently only offered in a heat range of 6.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Conclusions
I don't like NGK, that much is certain but when you consider cost it's hard to argue switching brands. Torque Master looked great and seemed like their design would out last the others, which would more than justify their price but they had their own problems. HKS platinums are my favorite to date especially after I was able to clean them. I bought a spark plug cleaner which did a pretty good job. However the seals are only meant to be used once and any unnoticed damage to the electrode during cleaning could have disastrous results.

If the HKS platinums were still available I would run HKS platinums leading and NGK standards trailing. The reason for this is because the leading plug is the one that does most of the work and thus would benefit the most from a better plug. The trailing position fires half as often and from what I am told is more of an emissions plug. Mixing plugs like this should have no adverse effects because not only are the positions run off of different coils but Mazda also essentially recommended different plugs because a different heat range is a different plug. Since HKS no longer offers these plugs I'll be using NGK standard non-platinum plugs. They don't last long but either do the more expensive platinum NGKs.

There are also rumors that the plugs used in the Rx-8 are producing some awesome results so expect a review on them soon as well. They are NGK iridium plugs though I have not yet seen a part number.

I'll be testing the NGK iridium plugs next.

Note that all prices listed were found at http://www.sparkplugs.com/ with the exception of the HKS plugs, which are listed at retail. I currently shop at www.rockauto.com for the best prices and super fast shipping.



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If you don't think replacing your plugs is important you might not get Home

Jedsterama

My 86 NA only failed to start one time.
I followed the basics I found in this form, pulled the fuse, pulled the lower plugs and cranked the motor several times, re-placed plugs, still didnt start.
Pulled fuse & bottom plugs, cranked.
Searched for something around the house to get oil into the bottom plug holes.
(If the car was at my garage it would have been different)
Found a leftover piece of rubber auto-trans cooler hose and zoom spout bottle of leftover rear end 90W oil.
Put the hose in the lower plug hole then the gear oil in the top of the hose. Gave it a couple light squeezes and repeated the procedure on the other rotor.
Re-placed the plugs and fuse and it fired right up, no foot on the pedal.
Made a great blue-white cloud of smoke my neighbors just loved. lol, I thought it looked pretty cool and my car was running again.
Took it for a good ride, parked it. Waited a few minutes and re-started with no problems.
The next day I started it and still got a small cloud of blue-white smoke. Started reading about blown oil or water seals.
Stated it the next day and no smoke. Forgot about blown oil and or water seals.
Put a fuel cut off switch in for good measure and anti-theft and havnt had any problems since.
Sometimes I forget about the switch a just use the key.
Car always started with no problems ever since.

90W worked for me

dennis blackstone

nice job flooding can be frustrating

NZConvertible

What does this have to do with "fixing" flooding? Using non-stock spark plugs won't do a thing.

dennis blackstone

it doesnt have nothing to do with flooding but for preventative measure we need to keep our cars well maintained its just a simple chart to know about the the plugs for the newbies

twin 7's in CB

i did the whole switch to the fuel pump thing for a while also, worked great. but all i did was replace the injectors and bye bye flooding.

AshC

nice job twin 7s did you buy factory injectors or aftermarket what brand

SOME HAVE CLAIMED THEY HAD GOOD LOOK WITH MSD,S FOR FOULING PLUGS BUT I TRIED ONE ON MY SEVEN IT DIDNT DO A THING BUT HERES AN ARTICLE I PULLED UP ON IT-----

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This page describes how to upgrade the stock leading ignition on your Mazda Rotary Engine to a direct-fire MSD 6A ignition.

Copyright (c) 2003-2004 Scott M. Baker.

Note: Please do not plagiarize this page! You are welcome to place a link to this page from your site, but please do not copy the contents (or pictures) from this site to your website without our express written permission (contact: sandrail@smbaker.com).

Acknowledgements:

The direct fire MSD ignition was (to the best of my knowledge) first proposed by Paul Yaw at www.yawpower.com

Introduction:

First of all -- why do you want to do this? Well, I have to admit, I did it mostly because I feel a need to tinker with things, and can't leave any stock part alone. Seriously though, the MSD 6A box claims that you will get "less plug fouling", "better performance", "quicker throttle response", and "easier starting". Let's hope all of that is true.

By performing this conversion, we're getting two bonuses:

Capacitive Discharge Ignition vs Inductive Ignition. The stock ignition is an "inductive" ignition. The inductive ignition was invented by Charles Kettering in 1908. An inductive ignition works by storing energy in the coil. This is done by applying battery voltage to the primary of the coil.Then, when you disrupt (i.e. disconnect) the battery voltage, the inductor will induce a current flow on the secondary of the coil, which gives you a spark. In the old days, the switching of the primary battery voltage on and off was done by points, these days it's usually done by a magnetic pickup and a transistor. The disadvantage of an inductive system is that the the energy decreases as the RPM goes up, because there's not enough time to fully charge the coil.

The MSD-6, on the other hand, is a capacitive discharge ignition. It works by storing up charge in a capacitor (inside the MSD-6 itself) of about 475 volts. The high voltage of this capacitor is then dumped into the primary of the coil, which induces an even higher voltage in the secondary (around 45000 volts), which will then give you your spark.

CD systems, as opposed to inductive systems, are able to supply a full charge, even at high RPM. An added bonus the CD system, is that at low RPM it can actually produce multiple sparks.

Direct Fire vs Distributor. Your stock system fires through the distributor. If you look inside your distributor, you'll find that it has a rotor inside. The rotor has contacts on it that match contacts in the cap. As the rotor is turns, it lines up the contacts for the appropriate spark plug, so that the spark from the coil will go to the right plug.

The problem with the distributor is that the contacts on the rotor do not actually touch the contacts on the cap -- the spark has to jump a little gap inside of there. This is going to cause a loss of some energy. Other problems with the distributor include ionization of the air inside the cap (causing cross-fire) and dirty/worn contacts. A much better solution would be to eliminate the distributor, and fire each plug from it's own dedicated coil.

This leads us to the direct fire solution. In a direct fire configuration, you have a dedicated coil for each spark plug. The coil is wired directly to the plug -- there is no distributor "gap" sitting inbetween the coil and the plug.

The solution that we'll end up with in this article is actually only direct fire on the leading spark plugs (recall that you're mazda engine has two plugs per rotor: a leading plug and a trailing plug). The reason for this is that we can safely fire both leading plugs at the same time. One leading plug will be in the correct cycle and will cause combustion. The other leading plug will not be in the correct cycle and it's spark will be "wasted". This is, quite intuitively, called a "wasted spark system". The wasted spark on one of the leading plugs does us no harm.

However, we can't utilize a wasted spark system on the trailing plugs. The reason for this is that there is actually a chance of the wasted spark on a trailing plug igniting the combustion chamber in the incorrect cycle. This would be very bad, and would almost certainly lead to engine damage.

Thus, we end up with a hybrid system -- a direct fire wasted spark implementation on the leading plugs (the plugs that do the most work), and the old distributor system on the trailing plugs.
Shopping List:

Here's what you're going to need to buy:

an MSD-6 ignition. This can be a MSD-6A, MSD-6AL, Offroad MSD-6, etc -- there's several variants to choose from depending on the features you want.
three (3) coils: one for each leading plug, and one for the trailing ignition. I suggest two nice new shiny MSD blaster-2 coils for the leading plugs. You can use stock coils if you prefer. Since we're leaving the trailing ignition unchanged, a stock coil is perfectly acceptable there.
a mazda distributor. The version with the magnetic pickups / ignitors is better than the version with the points. The version with the ignitors attached to the distributor is better than the version with the ignitors in a separate box.
one good mazda ignitor for your trailing ignition (use the one you already have with your distributor)
a set of do-it-yourself spiral wound spark plug wires-- the kind that come with one end of each wire preassembled, and the other end unassembled (so you can cut them to length, and make up custom cables). I used accel 8mm spiral wound wire. The MSD manual specifically states to use spiral wound rather than solid core wire.
optional: if you have a broken ignitor (or an ignitor that you're willing to sacrifice), you can use it's carcass to make a nice adapter plug to connect the MSD-6 to the magnetic pickup in the distributor.
Wiring overview.

Here is a quick overview of what needs to be wired, so you get an idea of what needs to be done before we go into detail.

Connect the MSD trigger wires (MSD green and purple wires) to the leading magnetic pickup in the distributor.
Connect the MSD coil wires (MSD orange and black wires) to the coils
Connect the MSD big red and big black wires to your battery
Connect the MSD little red wire to switched ignition power
Making an adapter plug out of an old ignitor

The MSD ignition is going to need to plug into the magnetic pickup in your distributor. If you remove an ignitor from your distributor, you'll see that there's a little two-pin plug on the distributor that mates with a two-pin plug on the ignitor.

[Note: You don't have to do it this way -- there are other ways to connect the MSD to the pickup, such as fashioning your own plug, or cutting the pickup wires inside the distributor and attaching your own connector -- but I think this is the cleanest way to do it]

Here is a picture of an ignitor, so you can see what I'm talking about:


Picture of a J-109 Ignitor

You can see two different plugs here.

On the top of the ignitor is a pair of blade terminals that are fairly easy to hook up to.

On the side of the ignitor is the two-pin plug that mates to the magnetic pickup in the distributor.


As you can imagine, that little two-pin plug in the side of the distributor is not the easiest thing in the world to find a connector for. However, if you're lucky enough to find an old ignitor, then you have the perfect connector!

First thing to do is to cut open your ignitor and remove the guts. I cut mine open with a sherline milling machine (a very useful tool!). You could also probably cut one open with a small cutting wheel on a dremel. Be careful to not cut too deeply -- all we need to cut through is a relatively thin metal cover on the ignitor.


Picture of a J-109 Ignitor with the guts removed.

Here, I've cut open the ignitor and removed the components that are inside. The components consist of a small circuit board and some parts, and lots of "gunk" that feels kind of like wet silicone.


In the above picture, you can see that there are four "pins" inside the ignitor, that connect to the connectors on the outside of the ignitor. The two pins on the right connect to the plug at the top, and the two pins on the left connect to the plug on the side. So, what we need to do is to wire the two plugs together.


Picture of J-109 ignitor with wires installed.

Here you can see I've writed the pins for the top plug to the pins for the side plug.

Make sure to do a good job of soldering (no cold solder joints) and make sure your wires don't touch.


Voila! There you have it, we've turned an old ignitor into the perfect adapter to use to connect to the distributor. One thing to note -- the way we've wired it, the wires kind of criss-cross. Take multimeter or continuity tester to it and you'll see what I mean. The Right connector on the top plug connects to the left connector on the side plug, and the left connector on the top plug connects to the right connector on the side plug.

As a side note, I painted my adapter "bright blue" (see pictures below) to ensure that it never gets confused with a "real" ignitor.

Wiring Step #1: Connecting the MSD to the magnetic pickup in the distributor

The magnetic pickup tells the MSD when to spark. Your distributor has two pickups inside of it, one for the leading ignition and one for the trailing ignition. The leading ignition pickup and ignitor are towards the front of the motor (the side of the motor with the pulleys and water pump).

Here is a picture of the distributor. The leading ignitor is shown in bright blue. You can see the little red and green wires going from the magnetic pickup to the ignitor.



Remove the leading ignitor from the distributor. It is held on with two screws. This will leave you with a little plug on the side of the distributor. There are a couple of choices about how to connect to this plug:

Build an adapted from an old ignitor (as I described above). This is (in my opinion), the best way to go.
... or ... Try to mutiliate the MSD plug into one that will fit the plug on the distributor.
... or ... Cut off the plug in the distributor and install your own plug (butt connectors or spade terminals, or whatever) in it's place.
Okay, let's assume you decided which of those three alternatives you want to do. Now, it's time to connect the MSD ignition to the leading ignitor. We need to wire it as follows:

MSD Green Wire ---> Magnetic Pickup Red Wire
MSD Purple Wire ---> Magnetic Pickup Green Wire.
This is very important -- get the connections right! If you wire it backwards, the ignitor will fire at the wrong time.

If you're using the "old ignitor adaptor" that I showed you how to build above, then you can connect the MSD Green wire to the "C" terminal, and the MSD Purple wire to the "B" terminal. (Only do this if you've made the adapter that I showed you how to build -- do not attempt to connect the MSD to a regular ignitor).

Wiring Step #2: Connect the MSD to your coils

Recall that we're going to connect two coils, in parallel to fire the leading spark plugs.

The MSD supplies an orange and a black wire to connect the coils. The orange wire goes to "+" and the black wire goes to "-". We're going to wire the coils in parallel, so this is how we do it:

MSD Orange ---> First coil +
MSD Black ---> First coil -
Jumper wire from First coil + to second coil +
Jumper wire from First coil - to second coil -


Wiring step #3: The big red and the big black wires

The MSD has a big red and big black that need to be connected to (unsiwtched) power and ground, respectively. There's not much to say about this -- just ensure that you do pick good places to hook them to. If you connect the gound to the chasis, make sure it's a good spot on the chasis.

Wiring step #4: The little red wire and the little white wire.

One last wire to go -- the little red wire. The little red wire needs to be connected to switched ignition -- i.e. power that turns on only when you turn on the key.

And then we have that one leftover little white wire. You can safely cut it off and cap it -- it's for points, which we don't have. Alternatively, you can install a small hidden switch to between the white wire and ground, and use it has a hidden kill-switch / theft-deterrent switch.

Connecting your plug wires:

You will need to fashion two new plug wires. The plug wires will connect from the two new coils to the leading plugs on the engine (the leading plugs are the lower plugs on the motor).

The Trailing Ignition:

The trailing ignition stays exacly the same as it was before. You need to make no modifications there. Just to make sure we're all on the same page here, you still have one trailing ignitor on the distributor, and it's connected to one trailing coil. The trailing coil wire is connector the the distributor, and two trailing spark plugs are connected to the distributor.

Tachometer

There's a couple of choices about where you connect your tach. You can connect it to either of these:

The "-" terminal of the trailing coil
... or ... The tach output on the MSD-6
I prefer connecting it to the "-" terminal of trailing coil. The reason for this is simple. If the trailing ignitor fails, then your tach will fail, thus alerting you to the problem. As the trailing ignition really doesn't do that much work, it isn't that noticible should it fail. Hence this is a good way to tell. (If, on the other hand, the leading ignition fails, then you will most certainly be aware of it...)

Alternatively, you can connect it to the tach output on the MSD ignition. On my OffRoad MSD, this is a solitary green wire. On the other MSD versions, I think there is a plug in the side of the ignition -- check your manual.

The one place that you should probably NOT connect it is to the "-" terminal of the leading coils.

The complete picture:

Here's a final view of the whole ignition system, as installed on my sandrail:



Above, you can see the MSD-6 OffRoad igntion unit, as well as two blaster-2 off road coils, and one stock coil.

Below is a side view, showing the routing of the spark plug wires.



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1

make sure compression is good

i've been told in the past that to prevent flooding after a short journey, when parked up in neutral, hold the revs at about 4k and turn the ignition off, whilst putting your gas pedal to the floor until it stalls. I've done this occasionally but never had flooding issues so have no idea if this is a urban myth?
ash

don't quote me but I think that's a myth .....theres a lot of different issues which has fixed members 7s like knew injectors knew plugs some members fixed there bac valve read whaT I had to do to fix my flooding hot start problem I think our sevens are old and you need to keep up with maintance

merry xmas all more info coming on the fuel and ecu system related to flooding have a happy non flooding knew year

HAILERS whats the deal with the bigger fuel pumps like the bosch walbro and fuel pump rewire ...im sure that contributes to flooding can you explain

cmanns

Whenever I just move the car I give full throttle right as I turn it off, seems to work fine to prevent flooding, if I don't do that it takes alil bit longer to start the next time and it drains the battery more

NZConvertible

You've already asked that question and I've already answered it (post #130).

Are you just posting for the fun of it now, because your last half-dozen posts have had nothing to do with the thread topic...?

coltboostin

iTrader: (1)

If you would read, and understand WHY they flood, you would be able to figure out that the answer to this question is NO, it has no effect on it.

NZConvertible

Actually if you read what's already been posted in this thread, you'd know that a over-sized pump can cause flooding on an engine that's already susceptible to it. It's not hard to figure out why.

Hello Roto

Last night i had a nightmare my car kept flooding!! talk about car crazy? i know that had nothing to do with the quick fix for flooding, but i just saw thread title and it felt appropriate

dennis blackstone

nz im not posting for fun i have better things to do with my time like build engines with less hassle this thread is simply for newbies who may run into differant situations with flooding i have around 15 guys with sevens and sometimes they may have a question on flooding so sometimes i post it is it that terrable to help people with frustrations in flooding i know your car maybe perfect but others still have this problem .i solved my problem let the rest of people on the board learn with what info we have gathered here and try to resolve it for them selfs

NZConvertible

Posting info on flooding-relating stuff is fine, but all those recent huge cut-and-paste posts had nothing to do with flooding. If you're really worried about the noobs then don't post stuff about spark plugs and MSD's that they might incorrectly interpret as being relevant to the topic.

My car is far from perfect. Remember earlier in the thread I said my engine had low compression? Now it has one rotor with no compression...

At least once it's rebuilt and broken in I will have zero flooding issues.