how many people have fixed flooding issues and what method worked
03-01-10, 01:24 AM
#276
86' gxl, had a flooding problem 3 days ago, it started just ran like crap. so i reved it up few times and it cleared it out and ran great.
and today my clutch pedal stuck to the floor so i pulled the pedal out and it was in first and i killed it lol.
but it also flooded it and i cannot get it to start, i pulled that fuse and cranked it for 30 seconds and then put the fuse back in to no avail.
so im pulling my plugs to check the compression right now.
whats good compression? 110psi??
and today my clutch pedal stuck to the floor so i pulled the pedal out and it was in first and i killed it lol.
but it also flooded it and i cannot get it to start, i pulled that fuse and cranked it for 30 seconds and then put the fuse back in to no avail.
so im pulling my plugs to check the compression right now.
whats good compression? 110psi??
05-15-10, 03:58 PM
#279
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Consider it now verified. Done
It does this thru the oweners ability to cut down on the opening time, during the START cycle, of the primary injectors from a minus temp figure to a 200 plus temperature figure.
MY post #166 mentions another way to have less fuel during START so the sucker will start everytime with a hot engine. I probably made several other ways earlier than that. I also see on one of the earlier pages where I mention using a store bought relay to over come the click, click, click, click.....varoom problem with the starter system.
It does this thru the oweners ability to cut down on the opening time, during the START cycle, of the primary injectors from a minus temp figure to a 200 plus temperature figure.
MY post #166 mentions another way to have less fuel during START so the sucker will start everytime with a hot engine. I probably made several other ways earlier than that. I also see on one of the earlier pages where I mention using a store bought relay to over come the click, click, click, click.....varoom problem with the starter system.
05-16-10, 09:20 PM
#283
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Sorry Hailers. I normally line up with you on subjects like this. But that isn't exactly fair to the broad audience of this forum. So I would go on and say:
And for those looking for a simple, low tech modification that works every time (if the only problem is primarily leaky injectors) that does the exact thing as what Mazda designed into the S5 and FD's for this hot start problem. Turn off the fuel pump so the excess fuel can clear. And you indeed get a form of anti theft device at the same time.
That said, the real fix is rather than work around the source problem is to correct the problem itself. That is, fix the leaky injectors by pulling them and sending them out for backflushing and tuning by folks like RC Engineering.
And for those looking for a simple, low tech modification that works every time (if the only problem is primarily leaky injectors) that does the exact thing as what Mazda designed into the S5 and FD's for this hot start problem. Turn off the fuel pump so the excess fuel can clear. And you indeed get a form of anti theft device at the same time.
That said, the real fix is rather than work around the source problem is to correct the problem itself. That is, fix the leaky injectors by pulling them and sending them out for backflushing and tuning by folks like RC Engineering.
05-16-10, 09:42 PM
#284
I used to suggest injector cleaning as a fix for flooding, but the main reason for it is the rich start map Mazda provided us. With my Rtek 2.1, I have it set to deliver 8ms of fuel for temperatures 149 degrees and up. The stock map calls for about 20ms for this same temperature range. The image below shows the stock injector pulsewidths. With the modified start map, it starts every time without fail. However, when using an Rtek 1.7 (stock start map), I would occasionally have it flood. And this was with freshly serviced injectors. The way I see it, dirty injectors will certainly make the problem worse, but a cleaning won't cure it. Start map control is the key.
05-17-10, 08:05 PM
#285
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rotaryrocket88 i think you nailed it...but are you saying it will start up while its hot?...if so i think thats my next purchase....wow finally some has found a solution
05-31-10, 05:42 PM
#286
Negative battery cable discharge worked for me... Ratchet through both positive and negative battery cables, WHEN BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED!!! I dont want no one to kill themselves or fry the electrical system by tryin to do it with the battery hooked up...
05-31-10, 08:33 PM
#288
Senior Member
I used this procedure when my car was hot starting a few years back worked great cut the wire and bam fixed never had a problem since. I just don't know that it was the 3b wire was so long ago.
08-02-10, 12:15 PM
#290
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Full 60k scheduled maintenance thats in the FSM and Owners manual worked for me. Idles at 800. I changed the spark plug cables out as well, and that seemed to have the biggest impact
Before then idle was all over the place (between 1800 and 650), never consistent with engine or ambient temp, ac on/off. It just plain sucked. The accelerated warm-up system is still operational, however.
Deflood procedure (pull egi fuse and floor it) always worked for me first time, but I do not know the engine compression numbers. It always starts within 1-2 seconds of cranking (if not flooded) so the compression isn't really bad, but strong enough to start easily.
I agree that "the switch" is for the incompetent. It is handy though.....
-mike
Before then idle was all over the place (between 1800 and 650), never consistent with engine or ambient temp, ac on/off. It just plain sucked. The accelerated warm-up system is still operational, however.
Deflood procedure (pull egi fuse and floor it) always worked for me first time, but I do not know the engine compression numbers. It always starts within 1-2 seconds of cranking (if not flooded) so the compression isn't really bad, but strong enough to start easily.
I agree that "the switch" is for the incompetent. It is handy though.....
-mike
08-02-10, 01:45 PM
#291
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what kind of spark plug wires did you buy
also this is an old thread but still keep posting
because this is one irratating problem with our rotarys
and if you have solved this problem it will help others
thank you guys for your input
keep it coming
also this is an old thread but still keep posting
because this is one irratating problem with our rotarys
and if you have solved this problem it will help others
thank you guys for your input
keep it coming
10-24-11, 10:16 PM
#296
I did this on my car 20 years ago when the previous owner had it.
We cut the b/w wire coming out of the ECU that goes to the fuel pump relay. This wire is only active during starting. We hooked it to a brake light switch(oem mazda part) and screwed it into the blank hole(on stick shift cars) above the gas pedal that is normally for the downshift solenoid switch on automatics. Now when the car will not start, simply floor the gas pedal like you do on '89 and later cars. What's that you ask...what about full throttle,does the fuel pump shut off?...As mentioned at the outset this wire is only active during starting. It has worked without fail for 20 years.
I got the fix from a Mazda zone rep when I used to be a service manager. It was never a problem until California started using winter gas. First it only occured in the winter time, now its anytime. This car is on its 3rd engine and has had several injector blueprint cleanings, sometimes they are leaking sometimes they are not, it does not seem to make a difference.
We cut the b/w wire coming out of the ECU that goes to the fuel pump relay. This wire is only active during starting. We hooked it to a brake light switch(oem mazda part) and screwed it into the blank hole(on stick shift cars) above the gas pedal that is normally for the downshift solenoid switch on automatics. Now when the car will not start, simply floor the gas pedal like you do on '89 and later cars. What's that you ask...what about full throttle,does the fuel pump shut off?...As mentioned at the outset this wire is only active during starting. It has worked without fail for 20 years.
I got the fix from a Mazda zone rep when I used to be a service manager. It was never a problem until California started using winter gas. First it only occured in the winter time, now its anytime. This car is on its 3rd engine and has had several injector blueprint cleanings, sometimes they are leaking sometimes they are not, it does not seem to make a difference.
10-25-11, 09:30 PM
#298
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boy theres so many fixes, just if there was one fix that could put our minds ast rest
the thing is its so enbarasing
i now adding a standalone 9 times out of 10 fixes this
the thing is its so enbarasing
i now adding a standalone 9 times out of 10 fixes this
10-26-11, 10:22 AM
#299
We cut the b/w wire coming out of the ECU that goes to the fuel pump relay. This wire is only active during starting. We hooked it to a brake light switch(oem mazda part) and screwed it into the blank hole(on stick shift cars) above the gas pedal that is normally for the downshift solenoid switch on automatics. Now when the car will not start, simply floor the gas pedal like you do on '89 and later cars.... It has worked without fail for 20 years.
10-28-11, 04:35 PM
#300
Senior Member
There's only one "fix" for a healthy engine and that's addressing the fuel map. As mentioned the Rtek7 2.1 gives you access. Otherwise everything else are remedies so pick one that suites you best.