The manual says as 'much' as 500 miles per quart.










I've driven 1000 miles with no premix and the last 2500 have been around 1/4oz to 1gal. The oil lines look to be stained brown and I consumed 1 quart or so (I get different readings hot vs cold, so its not been easy checking oil level) over those 2500.

I'm not (hopefully) YET sophisticated enough to properly check the operation. SO, if they are working then it is more harm than good for the premix since it may hasten carbon, but, if inoperable then the mix should be richer.

 

I don't think you even asked a question there.

 

500 is the upper limit. A quart every 3k is about right. You can add 1/2 oz per gallon with a working OMP and it'll actually help. If you do the full 1 oz per gallon I don't think it'll be too much even if your OMP works, just maybe overkill and more HC emissions.

 

sorry tex, i have trouble wording them sometimes. If your oil level doesn't drop then you worry the oMP is malfunctioning. So how low is too low? 1qt every 1000, 2000, 5000? When can proper operation be established without disconnecting the lines and put into a cup to measure.


thanks eric, so a quart every 3000 is sufficient!

 

Is your car a s4 or s5?

 

If your losing a quart every 3000 than you don't need to be premixing. If your OMP is not working, than you need to replace it rather than premix.

Premixing on an old engine is like giving beef jerky to a geriatric. They're to decrepit to appreciate it.

 

s4

 

The s5 should use about 1 quart per 3k mi and the s4 should use a little more, both are depending upon how hard you drive, that determines how much oil the omp will inject. Are you driving really nice or are you really running through the rpms? If I had a s4 I would run premix and get rid of the omp. If you are still worried about it and want to premix, 1/2oz per gal with the omp, 1oz per gal without the omp.

 

So I figured most engines when old will burn a little oil anyways. Do those of you with disabled MOP burn any oil? My thinking is that they would and since I burn an insignificant amount of oil I get paranoid of the OMP not working.

And whoever said it was easy, I can't even see where the lines end up...so no telling what all has to come off before you gain access to them. Still, I doubt I'd be capable to rebuild even if it was laid out on the table.


George,

I put these 3000 miles in 2-3 weeks. I got excited the car was doing well and gradually drove more and more furthur from town while frequently checking all fluids.

It was mostly cruising and rarely above 5000 rpm since the overrev buzzer sounds anytime above that. But today it didn't sound when I drove it harder and got up past 6000. 90% of the miles were in 5th doing anywhere between 50-90mph. I don't drive it hard as I'm not confident everything is working properly and I'm still learning the car. But I still make sure to go past half throttle regularly as to open the secondaries. I usually obey the shift light unless I'm entering the Interstate where I'll run it up to 5k or so but not floored.


That is the best I can explain how I drive it. Although, like I said today I got up to 6k in the first three gears. I probably won't do that again until it warms up since I redlighted and put in 20w50 way before I should have, even though it is acceptable as its above 32F.






Ya'll keep confusing me or I just can't figure it out. I've read ALL threads on 2 stroke oil. Then figured I'd run about 500:1 until I was sure of the OMP's operation. It's got 102k on the clock and I'm aiming for the sky (200k) so longevity is way more important than power, to me anyway. Exiting corners on the gas is where the car shines, but that accounts for like 1 mile per every 1000.


See George, I'm worried even more now. I know I said a quart per 3k, but it is more like 3/4 of a quart for 2500, maybe that is close enough.


Its just that if the OMP dies you don't get any warning. So, if I premix 250-500:1 it may act like insurance, but wouldn't it eventually choke or clog something or add even more carbon.

btw, I got Havoline TCW3. I went to the bike shop looking for Amsoil per a FD owner's reccomendation. They were out and I almost walked out with some dirtbike mix. Probably wouldn't matter but ya'll had "tcw3" ringing in my head.

 

Fuel dilution can have some effect on perceived oil metering problems.

As the oil gets depleted, it often gets replaced by gasoline, which gives the appearance of low oil consumption.

From what I've heard and experienced, it's not that uncommon to get alot of fuel in the oil, even on cars in good running condition.

The only real way to discern oil metering pump function is to do the FSM test and measure it at the OMP output fittings.

 

is 2 quarts per 2000 miles or 2 months good or bad?

 

If you are really worried, there is a metering oil pump test procedure in the Haynes/FSM manuals.

 

I agree. If it is bothering you enough, get a couple of spare lines (or make your own) and test the MOP output per Haynes/FSM. Pre-mix until you do check, for insurance.

 

I change oil every 3000 miles. I usually end up adding a single quart of oil over the course of that 3000 miles. I was told that this is normal consumption, at least for an s4 n/a.