I want to know if i need to replace my diff mounts, but i dont know what to look at when i look under the car. does anyone have a picture of their diff mounts so i can know what do be looking for when i jack my car up? or can i see them with the car on the ground?

 

bumpity

 

I've always heard to get the car going at around 3000 RPMs in first gear, and jump on and off the throttle. If you hear a loud clang coming from back there, it's probably your diff mount.

Sorry, no pics though.

 

or go on the get into forth on the a long strgith round and blip the gas. and you should get what jerry said. mine are gone too. so im getting the ones from mazdatrix.com. they have better ones then stock too.

 

ok, now question #2. does anyone know how i can check my *****?

yeah.. anyone have any pictures of question 1?(diff mounts)

 

Your ***** should be between your legs. I'll see if I can get you a picture tonight.

Jack the rear of the car up as high as you can, slide under the car from the rear until your head is right where the driveshaft meets the diff. The front mount is on the drivers side. If it's broken you will be able to push the front of the diff up and down almost like its pivoting on the half shafts. Get under there and it will be obvious.

 

A flashlight would also help to locate any large cracks in the rubber that may lead to failure. If you decide to change it. Make sure you torque the two mounting nuts to factory specs. The bolts are molded into a hunk of rubber and overtightening might cause premature failure.

 

Those things were on there so damn tight I thought it would be ok to use the impact gun?!?! Oh well, it's a competition mount so maybe I'll be ok.

 

Just a heads up. After ~15 mid 13 sec passes with 1.9-2.1 '60 times (and years of auto-xing) our diff mount didn't fail but the metal mounting point for the front diff mount broke. The diff mount was in one piece, the tab that it mounted to broke off the rear subframe...

There is no mistaking the sound of the diff hitting the body, everytime you get on it or lift there will be a loud bang.

Jeff

 

Hey jeff I'm glad that happen to someone else, cause it happen to me too, if you blip the throttle and hear a cluck on the rear on the car hitting the body...

 

on my 87 NA i heard the unmistakable sound of a broken diff mount. replaced the busted mount with a new one. about a mile later the tabs boke off of my subframe....................sad day.

 

yo, i did that test with 3000 rpms in first and hit the gas. i heard no clunk. my head was just thrown back from the high boost in this cold weather...
am i off the hook?

 

Get under there and check it out anyway. Like Zach way saying, it's not hard to check. From what I've seen, what most often happens is that the rubber actually seperates from the metal piece that bolts to the subframe, leaving the rubber part to bounce between the bolts/nuts. Fortunately, the bolts/nuts prevent the diff from moving enough to cause any other damage.

Ren

 

yep that what happend to my diff mount the two bit seperated when i get on and off the gas a loud thump comes from the rear of the car its still broken now getting it fixed soon

 

Ive had that clunking sound, but it was a drivehaft u-joint, check that while you are down there. Just yank that fucher in all from side to side and youll know.

BTW: Haynes manual says that you need to replace the entire driveshaft if u-joint is broken.. I was too cheap so i had a local transmission shop put a new one in( its doable with some welding skils)

 

Hi

Replacing bushings is very very effective.
We have replaced them sooooooo many times.
If your car runs over 30000 miles, you should replace them.

Stock bushes are OK.
But there is a little difference in prices.
Mazdaspeed, Autoexe and RE-A are good quality. and harder.

Motor mount, Diff mount, Tranny mount and Front lower arm are recommended.

Thanks

 

You'll know when the diff mount goes. It's a very loud, disturbing "BANG" of metal on metal when you shift. If you don't hear that now you should be fine. What made you think you need to replace your diff mount?

 

i was just wondering cause alot of people in the FC section talk about their diff mount breaking.

 

Anybody in here ever do the pinion snubber fix?

When installed, it helps reduce the "want to move" under torque. It sits directly above the front end of the diff. Takes about 10 minutes (if the read end is already dropped down).