how do i check my diff mounts?
#1
how do i check my diff mounts?
I want to know if i need to replace my diff mounts, but i dont know what to look at when i look under the car. does anyone have a picture of their diff mounts so i can know what do be looking for when i jack my car up? or can i see them with the car on the ground?
#6
FTD Wanna Be
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your ***** should be between your legs. I'll see if I can get you a picture tonight.
Jack the rear of the car up as high as you can, slide under the car from the rear until your head is right where the driveshaft meets the diff. The front mount is on the drivers side. If it's broken you will be able to push the front of the diff up and down almost like its pivoting on the half shafts. Get under there and it will be obvious.
Jack the rear of the car up as high as you can, slide under the car from the rear until your head is right where the driveshaft meets the diff. The front mount is on the drivers side. If it's broken you will be able to push the front of the diff up and down almost like its pivoting on the half shafts. Get under there and it will be obvious.
#7
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A flashlight would also help to locate any large cracks in the rubber that may lead to failure. If you decide to change it. Make sure you torque the two mounting nuts to factory specs. The bolts are molded into a hunk of rubber and overtightening might cause premature failure.
Trending Topics
#8
FTD Wanna Be
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Samps
A flashlight would also help to locate any large cracks in the rubber that may lead to failure. If you decide to change it. Make sure you torque the two mounting nuts to factory specs. The bolts are molded into a hunk of rubber and overtightening might cause premature failure.
A flashlight would also help to locate any large cracks in the rubber that may lead to failure. If you decide to change it. Make sure you torque the two mounting nuts to factory specs. The bolts are molded into a hunk of rubber and overtightening might cause premature failure.
#9
Do it right, do it once
iTrader: (30)
Just a heads up. After ~15 mid 13 sec passes with 1.9-2.1 '60 times (and years of auto-xing) our diff mount didn't fail but the metal mounting point for the front diff mount broke. The diff mount was in one piece, the tab that it mounted to broke off the rear subframe...
There is no mistaking the sound of the diff hitting the body, everytime you get on it or lift there will be a loud bang.
Jeff
There is no mistaking the sound of the diff hitting the body, everytime you get on it or lift there will be a loud bang.
Jeff
#10
Daily Domestic Killer
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: San Antonio, Tx, USA
Posts: 2,425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey jeff I'm glad that happen to someone else, cause it happen to me too, if you blip the throttle and hear a cluck on the rear on the car hitting the body...
#11
Edmond Dantes
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 1,930
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
on my 87 NA i heard the unmistakable sound of a broken diff mount. replaced the busted mount with a new one. about a mile later the tabs boke off of my subframe....................sad day.
#13
Rotary Freak
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Hampton Roads, VA
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Get under there and check it out anyway. Like Zach way saying, it's not hard to check. From what I've seen, what most often happens is that the rubber actually seperates from the metal piece that bolts to the subframe, leaving the rubber part to bounce between the bolts/nuts. Fortunately, the bolts/nuts prevent the diff from moving enough to cause any other damage.
Ren
Ren
#14
Pew Pew Pew
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: sunshine coast Australia
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yep that what happend to my diff mount the two bit seperated when i get on and off the gas a loud thump comes from the rear of the car its still broken now getting it fixed soon
#15
OBEY YOUR MAZDA
Ive had that clunking sound, but it was a drivehaft u-joint, check that while you are down there. Just yank that fucher in all from side to side and youll know.
BTW: Haynes manual says that you need to replace the entire driveshaft if u-joint is broken.. I was too cheap so i had a local transmission shop put a new one in( its doable with some welding skils)
BTW: Haynes manual says that you need to replace the entire driveshaft if u-joint is broken.. I was too cheap so i had a local transmission shop put a new one in( its doable with some welding skils)
Last edited by Kim; 01-07-03 at 04:10 AM.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tokyo Japan
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi
Replacing bushings is very very effective.
We have replaced them sooooooo many times.
If your car runs over 30000 miles, you should replace them.
Stock bushes are OK.
But there is a little difference in prices.
Mazdaspeed, Autoexe and RE-A are good quality. and harder.
Motor mount, Diff mount, Tranny mount and Front lower arm are recommended.
Thanks
Replacing bushings is very very effective.
We have replaced them sooooooo many times.
If your car runs over 30000 miles, you should replace them.
Stock bushes are OK.
But there is a little difference in prices.
Mazdaspeed, Autoexe and RE-A are good quality. and harder.
Motor mount, Diff mount, Tranny mount and Front lower arm are recommended.
Thanks
#17
Nothing to see here.
You'll know when the diff mount goes. It's a very loud, disturbing "BANG" of metal on metal when you shift. If you don't hear that now you should be fine. What made you think you need to replace your diff mount?
#19
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anybody in here ever do the pinion snubber fix?
When installed, it helps reduce the "want to move" under torque. It sits directly above the front end of the diff. Takes about 10 minutes (if the read end is already dropped down).
When installed, it helps reduce the "want to move" under torque. It sits directly above the front end of the diff. Takes about 10 minutes (if the read end is already dropped down).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post