how do i boost my 13b n/a
#2
Rotary Freak
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how do i boost my 13b n/a
Let me warn you now that 99.9% of people are going to tell you to sell the car and buy a TII. That is above and beyond the smartest and easiest thing to do. If you insist on ignoring everyone else's advice and experience, start reading this:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm
#3
CC of L-Squared Shots
+1 Just about all the parts you need you'll end up pulling off of a Tii with the total cost being more expensive than finding a Tii to start off with.
The fabrication alone and custom parts needed will raise the cost and effort yet further
The fabrication alone and custom parts needed will raise the cost and effort yet further
#4
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add this!
(Daniel is about right...I just Got all TII stuff and swapped..then went NUTS afterwards building it further.Prepare to be broke and have no life!)
(Daniel is about right...I just Got all TII stuff and swapped..then went NUTS afterwards building it further.Prepare to be broke and have no life!)
#5
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The long answer is that even completely ignoring the engine, a typical build would include the following from a Turbo II donor car: flywheel, transmission, starter, clutch and slave cylinder, driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts, intercooler, and hood, plus the following aftermarket parts: upgraded radiator, boost gauge, and upgraded fuel pump. As you can see, you are already thousands of dollars in the hole and still no turbo engine. If you are insane and want to spend hundreds of man-hours making your non-turbo engine into a turbo engine, then you can see an example of one way to do it at Aaron Cake's website posted earlier in this thread.
#6
Engine, Not Motor
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Do to the engine? If it's in good shape, then nothing. If you are planning on doing all this to a 300K engine with 3 piece apex seals, well then the result won't be reliable.
Of course that doesn't count all the stuff needed to attach to the engine and support it for forced induction. Obviously all the turbo hardware, of which there is no off the shelf option for a NA 13B so you need to fabricate, or adapt the TII stuff to fit. Intercooler, exhaust, plumbing, etc.
Fuel system to support the fuel requirements of forced induction, and ECU that understands boost. Someone who knows how to tune it all.
If power levels are kept low then the NA drivetrain will be reliable enough. Anything much beyond stock TII power levels and you might want to start thinking of replacing the transmission, driveshaft, differential and half shafts.
Of course that doesn't count all the stuff needed to attach to the engine and support it for forced induction. Obviously all the turbo hardware, of which there is no off the shelf option for a NA 13B so you need to fabricate, or adapt the TII stuff to fit. Intercooler, exhaust, plumbing, etc.
Fuel system to support the fuel requirements of forced induction, and ECU that understands boost. Someone who knows how to tune it all.
If power levels are kept low then the NA drivetrain will be reliable enough. Anything much beyond stock TII power levels and you might want to start thinking of replacing the transmission, driveshaft, differential and half shafts.
#7
Senior Member
Now that the topic is here (relevant info for you op)
How much can the transmission handle Aaron? On your site, you say that the trans didnt break from power, only from oiling. You made 400hp. How much do say they can handle?
Also for the lsd diff, whats the max for those? read on the forum that they handled 350 no sweat.
How much can the transmission handle Aaron? On your site, you say that the trans didnt break from power, only from oiling. You made 400hp. How much do say they can handle?
Also for the lsd diff, whats the max for those? read on the forum that they handled 350 no sweat.
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#8
Engine, Not Motor
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You're mixing up the narrative of my years of building and driving the car.
I broke zero transmissions with the stock turbo. Fried one due to lack of oil. With the stock turbo and an open diff, you are probably within the limits of the NA transmission.
At 400HP (GT4088R) with an open diff I was able to use an NA transmission for several years before I demolished the input and cluster shaft in 3rd gear.
A few months later with the same setup and power level it was the same failure.
Moved to a TII transmission and LSD (still NA). Turned up the boost. Ran some autox and at the drag strip. On season two I broke the diff stub shaft, and that was on a slipping clutch.
Now I use a TII transmission, TII diff/axles, and Mazdatrix aluminium TII drive shaft.
I broke zero transmissions with the stock turbo. Fried one due to lack of oil. With the stock turbo and an open diff, you are probably within the limits of the NA transmission.
At 400HP (GT4088R) with an open diff I was able to use an NA transmission for several years before I demolished the input and cluster shaft in 3rd gear.
A few months later with the same setup and power level it was the same failure.
Moved to a TII transmission and LSD (still NA). Turned up the boost. Ran some autox and at the drag strip. On season two I broke the diff stub shaft, and that was on a slipping clutch.
Now I use a TII transmission, TII diff/axles, and Mazdatrix aluminium TII drive shaft.
#9
Lube has no limit.
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It's going to cost a lot of money. I bought an S4 TII engine, had it rebuilt, then had to get it rebuilt again 400 miles later. Still on an NA drivetrain, and it sucks. The transmission steadily gets worse from being pumped with close to 350hp on the daily, and the open diff never lets the car get grip unless the boost is at like 8 psi. I'm piecing together a TII drivetrain right now. All in all, I have about 10 grand invested in the car just to make it a turbo and be reliable. I should've bought a TII, but it's about a year and a half too late now.
#12
Rotisserie Engine
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I make about 325 wheel HP, so I'm gonna assume 250ish torque. NA drivetrain has been holding up fine as long as you dont launch it at the dragstrip...on slicks....multiple times. I blew the open diff spider gears after about 50 or so launches, and then a month later shredded the cluster shaft gear like Aaron did. Besides that it's held up fine....Probably put about 3k miles on it since going with a turbo motor.
#13
Rotary Enthusiast
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I am currently rebuilding engine #2 for my turbo converted N/A S5 and like everyone has stated before it is cheaper to buy a turbo II model already. I even got the car for free but took my four in a half years before I could drive the damn thing and even then I was working out the bugs to make it reliable and that is with all turbo II components, drive shaft, half shafts, transmission, differential, hood, and all the electronics, and rebuilt the stock wiring harness myself to run it stock. But man, it ran and started up everyday like a brand new car (I even got the A/C to blow ice cold!). So it depends on how you look at it and what your end goals are.
Oh, by the way I have S5 turbo parts off of the second motor I'm looking to get rid of so let me know!
Oh, by the way I have S5 turbo parts off of the second motor I'm looking to get rid of so let me know!
Last edited by Gregory Casimir; 08-19-15 at 01:27 AM.
#15
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^^^^ That's what I came in here for lol
If you were to lazy to look through the forum to see what was needed, reading as many threads about it as possible, then you are far too lazy to attempt the conversion.
If you were to lazy to look through the forum to see what was needed, reading as many threads about it as possible, then you are far too lazy to attempt the conversion.
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