How can you verify the Mech OMP is working?
05-10-04, 03:38 PM
#1
How can you verify the Mech OMP is working?
Well I don't think mine is or maybe it hasn't pushed enough oil through the lines yet.
I have one line on the OMP which is new due to me breaking the old one.
It's a white-ish clear plastic so I figured I would be able to noitice oil flowing through it.
So far it doesn't look like any has gone through.
The OMP came off my car when it was running so it should be fine.
Is there any way to test it?
The car has ran for about 2-3 hours so far in it's life time.
I've been using premix just in case it isn't.
I have one line on the OMP which is new due to me breaking the old one.
It's a white-ish clear plastic so I figured I would be able to noitice oil flowing through it.
So far it doesn't look like any has gone through.
The OMP came off my car when it was running so it should be fine.
Is there any way to test it?
The car has ran for about 2-3 hours so far in it's life time.
I've been using premix just in case it isn't.
05-10-04, 03:56 PM
#3
oil is a clearish/amber color, and when not in very thick amounts, will appear this way, even when dirty. My MOP lines still slightly transparent ( a hint of amber) and I know my MOP is working. Your lines shouldnt be very dark ( as if you were looking for black oil to be moving though them) unless the lines are stained , or the oil is extremely dirty. Of all the engines Ive pulled and all the MOPs Ive accumulated, all the lines were still a clearish/amber color.
05-10-04, 04:12 PM
#4
woops sorry fitness 
That's what I'm hoping it is. Just thin small amounts of clean oil.
The new line is white plastic which is semi transparent while the old original lines are a golden brown color from age.
If this engine blew due to a bad OMP I would haveto buy a civic or somethign and give up FC's for life
That's what I'm hoping it is. Just thin small amounts of clean oil.
The new line is white plastic which is semi transparent while the old original lines are a golden brown color from age.
If this engine blew due to a bad OMP I would haveto buy a civic or somethign and give up FC's for life
05-10-04, 04:14 PM
#5
Hmm me thinking.
The only way I could guess on test method would be remove the banjo from one of the lines(clear/new one) and then inject some 2 stroke oil since it is a blue color it will be noticable.
I can then run the engine and check to see if the blue oil moves up the line.
Sound good?
The only way I could guess on test method would be remove the banjo from one of the lines(clear/new one) and then inject some 2 stroke oil since it is a blue color it will be noticable.
I can then run the engine and check to see if the blue oil moves up the line.
Sound good?
05-10-04, 04:18 PM
#6
Yar-Har-Har
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yeah i was going to just dump some two stroke in my tank just in case ... im assuming once mine is running i should start to notice the lines being stained a bit more ...
the oil that is in there is COMPLETLy new and synthetic so maybe thats why they still appear pretty clean
the oil that is in there is COMPLETLy new and synthetic so maybe thats why they still appear pretty clean
05-10-04, 04:22 PM
#7
HAILERS
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In the OIL SECTION of the fsm....inn't there a procedure for checking the pump??? Like taking the banjo bolt off, lifting the actuating arm up at idle and counting the amount of fluid captured in a container???
Can you blow thru the line? Towards the injector?
Or how about idling the car hot and lifting up on the arm and seeing if you can see oil in the line after a few minutes.
Can you blow thru the line? Towards the injector?
Or how about idling the car hot and lifting up on the arm and seeing if you can see oil in the line after a few minutes.
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05-10-04, 05:59 PM
#9
OK for the others here.
The fsm says to disconnect 2(like both on the outer side) and put it into a cup. Have the car run at 2k RPM for 5 minutes.
Make sure to pull rod fully(it's says to)
Turbo models should be 5.2-6.6 cc
Non turbo 4.2-5.6cc
I am going to guess this means that turbo models have a different OMP which injects a high ratio or do they just shim the bottom of the rod to make output high at a lower position?
Hmm! I just remembered I have some broken oil lines I can use to perfectly measure it without getting dirty!
The fsm says to disconnect 2(like both on the outer side) and put it into a cup. Have the car run at 2k RPM for 5 minutes.
Make sure to pull rod fully(it's says to)
Turbo models should be 5.2-6.6 cc
Non turbo 4.2-5.6cc
I am going to guess this means that turbo models have a different OMP which injects a high ratio or do they just shim the bottom of the rod to make output high at a lower position?
Hmm! I just remembered I have some broken oil lines I can use to perfectly measure it without getting dirty!
05-10-04, 06:03 PM
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally posted by Digi7ech
OK for the others here.
The fsm says to disconnect 2(like both on the outer side) and put it into a cup. Have the car run at 2k RPM for 5 minutes.
Make sure to pull rod fully(it's says to)
Turbo models should be 5.2-6.6 cc
Non turbo 4.2-5.6cc
I am going to guess this means that turbo models have a different OMP which injects a high ratio or do they just shim the bottom of the rod to make output high at a lower position?
Hmm! I just remembered I have some broken oil lines I can use to perfectly measure it without getting dirty!
OK for the others here.
The fsm says to disconnect 2(like both on the outer side) and put it into a cup. Have the car run at 2k RPM for 5 minutes.
Make sure to pull rod fully(it's says to)
Turbo models should be 5.2-6.6 cc
Non turbo 4.2-5.6cc
I am going to guess this means that turbo models have a different OMP which injects a high ratio or do they just shim the bottom of the rod to make output high at a lower position?
Hmm! I just remembered I have some broken oil lines I can use to perfectly measure it without getting dirty!
05-10-04, 07:38 PM
#11
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Temporarily disconnect the rod from the throttle and push it downwards. This will make the pump push more oil. Then see if it looks like oil is pushing thru the lines.
05-10-04, 11:22 PM
#12
Originally posted by Fitness Stain
the oil that is in there is COMPLETLy new and synthetic so maybe thats why they still appear pretty clean
the oil that is in there is COMPLETLy new and synthetic so maybe thats why they still appear pretty clean
Noooooo don't use synthetic if you're running the OMP. Synthetic doesn't burn cleanly and will make a mess of your rotors and seals.
05-10-04, 11:48 PM
#13
Eet fase
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Originally posted by Gene
Noooooo don't use synthetic if you're running the OMP. Synthetic doesn't burn cleanly and will make a mess of your rotors and seals.
Noooooo don't use synthetic if you're running the OMP. Synthetic doesn't burn cleanly and will make a mess of your rotors and seals.
05-11-04, 12:23 AM
#14
Originally posted by Gene
Noooooo don't use synthetic if you're running the OMP. Synthetic doesn't burn cleanly and will make a mess of your rotors and seals.
Noooooo don't use synthetic if you're running the OMP. Synthetic doesn't burn cleanly and will make a mess of your rotors and seals.
They say it will not either and they specifically mention rotary engines.
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