how to bypass factory amplifiers
how to bypass factory amplifiers
car is an 87 t2. looking to istall an aftermarket deck. it is my understanding that these cars have an amplifier for the front speakers and 1 for each rear. i would like to bypass them without running wires off the deck directly to the speakers. i'm sure this has been done many times, but a search turned up nada for me.
hoping someone with knowledge on this task can offer some guidance. as always, much appreciated
hoping someone with knowledge on this task can offer some guidance. as always, much appreciated
nevermind. just switched up the search words and found quite a number of threads. fairly straight forward with the fsm wiring diagram. just jumper the inputs to the outputs and remove the amps. will need a non amped knee panel for pass side apparently.
I wouldn't just jumper the plug as it's unreliable. Best thing to do is cut and solder the wires together...just don't cut co close to the plug that you can never go back to stock (You may never need to do this, but always better safe than sorry!).
Forgive me for pointing this out, but how would jumpering the wires together at the each amp's connector be unreliable? IIRC, the terminals are 0.250" Yazaki ones which can accept a common Quick Disconnect in lieu of the proper connector terminal & housing. While not as 'pretty' as obtaining a matching connector (quite common on 80s/90s japanese cars) and splicing the appropriate wires together for a plug & play solution (my preferred one for easy reversibility), it does work and is a cheap, reversible way of getting the intended effect using items that can be found anywhere.
To quote Aaron Cake, "A properly done crimp is fine. A properly done solder is fine."
tbh, i always just crimp and heatshrink my connections. good quality heatshrink with glue and ratchet type crimper on non insulated connectors. it's clean, it's easy, and you never have to worry about the integrity.
and yes, i am not really a fan of modifying the stock harness. when i swapped my interior, i also swapped in a clean, uncut dash harness. i could just hardwire the speakers directly to the deck like most do, but i don't like having a bunch of extra wires running through the car if i don't have to. i guess i'm a bit selective
and yes, i am not really a fan of modifying the stock harness. when i swapped my interior, i also swapped in a clean, uncut dash harness. i could just hardwire the speakers directly to the deck like most do, but i don't like having a bunch of extra wires running through the car if i don't have to. i guess i'm a bit selective
I'm not a fan of unnecessary harness modifications when the same results can be accomplished using common components without cutting or splicing a perfectly fine, untouched harness in good condition. Soldering or crimping a splice connector in the passenger footwell is NOT fun and sounds like an exercise in unneeded frustration when the same can be done in a much more comfortable location and position.
Forgive me for pointing this out, but how would jumpering the wires together at the each amp's connector be unreliable? IIRC, the terminals are 0.250" Yazaki ones which can accept a common Quick Disconnect in lieu of the proper connector terminal & housing. While not as 'pretty' as obtaining a matching connector (quite common on 80s/90s japanese cars) and splicing the appropriate wires together for a plug & play solution (my preferred one for easy reversibility), it does work and is a cheap, reversible way of getting the intended effect using items that can be found anywhere.
To quote Aaron Cake, "A properly done crimp is fine. A properly done solder is fine."
Forgive me for pointing this out, but how would jumpering the wires together at the each amp's connector be unreliable? IIRC, the terminals are 0.250" Yazaki ones which can accept a common Quick Disconnect in lieu of the proper connector terminal & housing. While not as 'pretty' as obtaining a matching connector (quite common on 80s/90s japanese cars) and splicing the appropriate wires together for a plug & play solution (my preferred one for easy reversibility), it does work and is a cheap, reversible way of getting the intended effect using items that can be found anywhere.
To quote Aaron Cake, "A properly done crimp is fine. A properly done solder is fine."
As far as being difficult, maybe it's because I do this type of thing at work everyday, it really isn't.
Full Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 174
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From: Kansas City, MO
1988 RX7 SE amp bypass
1. I jumper wire inserted between positive driver side dash front speaker and negative antenna relay pin.
2. I jumper wire inserted between negative driver side dash front speaker and positive battery pin.
3. Then, did you remove amp and insert 2 wires from same harness plug to passenger side speaker.
4. After completing 1-3 above, there are 3 connections remaining on said 9- pin male plug, 1 black negative ground wire, 1 positive white speaker/amp wire and 1 positive blue/white ACC wire. Since you already removed amp, these 3 remaining connections on said 9- pin male plug could be left in same plug or not connected to anything.
Please indicate how you bypassed passenger side front amp/speaker.
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Hi, when you bypassed passenger dash amp/speaker, did you insert jumper wires into wiring harness 9- pin male plug that plugs into amp/speaker plastic container as follows:
1. I jumper wire inserted between positive driver side dash front speaker and negative antenna relay pin.
2. I jumper wire inserted between negative driver side dash front speaker and positive battery pin.
3. Then, did you remove amp and insert 2 wires from same harness plug to passenger side speaker.
4. After completing 1-3 above, there are 3 connections remaining on said 9- pin male plug, 1 black negative ground wire, 1 positive white speaker/amp wire and 1 positive blue/white ACC wire. Since you already removed amp, these 3 remaining connections on said 9- pin male plug could be left in same plug or not connected to anything.
Please indicate how you bypassed passenger side front amp/speaker.
1. I jumper wire inserted between positive driver side dash front speaker and negative antenna relay pin.
2. I jumper wire inserted between negative driver side dash front speaker and positive battery pin.
3. Then, did you remove amp and insert 2 wires from same harness plug to passenger side speaker.
4. After completing 1-3 above, there are 3 connections remaining on said 9- pin male plug, 1 black negative ground wire, 1 positive white speaker/amp wire and 1 positive blue/white ACC wire. Since you already removed amp, these 3 remaining connections on said 9- pin male plug could be left in same plug or not connected to anything.
Please indicate how you bypassed passenger side front amp/speaker.
I really also cannot find a proper pinout for the factory front amp.
Thanks
This is how I bypassed mine.
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...m_content=post
Scroll down a little. The share button for links never work correctly for me.
March 17th 2025
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...m_content=post
Scroll down a little. The share button for links never work correctly for me.
March 17th 2025
Last edited by Jeff76; Oct 8, 2025 at 05:26 PM.
This is how I bypassed mine.
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...m_content=post
Scroll down a little. The share button for links never work correctly for me.
March 17th 2025
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...m_content=post
Scroll down a little. The share button for links never work correctly for me.
March 17th 2025
Thanks a lot for this. I just realized your build thread is a huge wealth of information, and I really appreciate it.
There is a good bit of info to parse through.
You can probably modify the way that I did the bypass and cut wires. I wanted to keep mine intact. Well.... beside unsolidering the board wires anyway.
There are many mistakes in my thread, great words of encouragement and help from others on here along the way. As long as you help yourself some first, there are many great people here to help if you have questions.
You can probably modify the way that I did the bypass and cut wires. I wanted to keep mine intact. Well.... beside unsolidering the board wires anyway.
There are many mistakes in my thread, great words of encouragement and help from others on here along the way. As long as you help yourself some first, there are many great people here to help if you have questions.
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