2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Holy rust spots

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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 08:37 PM
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Black Knight RX7 FC3S's Avatar
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Holy rust spots

I ha the car since sept 06 and I knew there was rust spots, but damn....it got even worse then before.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/174/4...e0180030_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/210/4...230c6a47_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/179/4...b801218b_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/208/4...20d2f7.jpg?v=0

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/205/4...625f3fa3_o.jpg

I got some ideas on how to fix it.
Cut the defected metal off, and weld 18g sheet metal.

I just some more opnions on fixing it.

The wierd thing is there is no rust any where else, and only here on the front driver side.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 08:56 PM
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FCKing1995's Avatar
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Hate to say it but it might just be easier and more cost effective to just buy another car. Or find a good shell with no rust and swap over the parts. That body looks pretty fuxxored. At least thats what I would do, Ive dealt with too many rusted *** cars in the past, I no longer do that anymore
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 09:08 PM
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Carzy Driver's Avatar
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holy crap!!


new car or new rust free shell are your best and/or safest options.. :smiley_12
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 09:09 PM
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I can fix it.
Actually, I want to fix it. I have another car to drive around, and I can just park this in the garage and work on it.

The only thing I have trouble with is wondering how strong the metal is when I screw in the sway bar mounts. I wonder if I have to reinforce that area more, and what gauge metal I have to use.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 09:22 PM
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Dude, I'd get rid of that chassis...
That's the engine frame rail that's gone, and it's a major stressed member up front.
It's not worth the headache, and finding a better chassis is a lot easier (and cheaper).


-Ted
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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its done, i've scrapped a shell in better shape than that, you shouldnt have been driving that. Get a new shell with no rust and coat it with POR-15

i love living in arizona ^_^
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 09:30 PM
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Wow..... Remind me never to move to the east coast or areas where they salt the roads... My 1976 Ford F100 had ZERO rust.....

West coast FTW!

But seriously, don't waste your time with that shell. That car is totaled.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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I guess, Ill look for a shell then, and transfer everything over.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 09:43 PM
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damn that rust SUCKS!!!! Do this: Cut a small pice of good metal an buy the sheet metal of the same thicknes or a little more, is the want that you need is not available.

I will recomend you to weld the panels using Heli-Arc. If not, use Mig welder with Argon (better welding that the gasless machine). The reason is that weldings makes less heat and avoid the rust that can surge because excesive heat is used.

1. Cut the appropiate size of the sheet metal that you want to work. A littler bigger is better to weld it. Then place over the rusty area and hammer or cut it to the shape and form that you want. Then mark, with the sheet metal that you make, the exact area that you will weld it. Once that you mark the area, cut the rusty metal off,
clean the area that you will weld and weld the panel.

2. If you welding is ugly and you dont want that, I suggest to buy a grinder with a grinding wheel to remove al excess welding. Then, buy a sanding flapper wheel (the disc one) that fits to the grinder and finish the weld the more beautiful that was neccesary. Remember that Bondo can make a great makeover to hide the weld.

2. At the time that finish to weld that part, let the part to cool down, then clean the area to remove all the dirt, grease, etc and spray self-etching primer (you can buy it in spray cans in brands like SEM, Transtar, etc. they're typicaly green or gray). Self etching primer is NOT THE SAME that the regular primer. This one will sticks over the metal, and the other one sticks over the etching primer and over this one the paint). The use of this product will avoid the flash rust.

3. If you get flash rust, a Metal Cleaner (is not the same that the Metal Conditioner. You can use it over the areas that would be trapped because the new panel welding. ie. in the chassis tuner where the sway bar bolts) That is an acid that destroy rust. You need to spray it over the place and inmediatly, with a wet rag, remove the acid of a white oxide will surge.

4. Is you want to protect the area once finished, you can buy an encapsulator paint like POR-15, I think that Easwood.com sold one under his name, but I dont know is good.

well, I think that is all the neccesary info. So, buy the equipment and do it. Once you finish your project, you will be proud of you work!!!!
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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My car has rust but luckily its limited to the passanger door and the exhaust system. Otherwise my car is pretty rust free somehow. I guess mine came from the NE since I live in Alabama, we never get snow, so it was to be from up north. Like I said, trash it, you will be much happier in the long run with a new rust free chassis
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 10:00 PM
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I know how to weld. I was hesitant to actually do the job if its really bad, which is why I wanted more opinions.

I was leaning towards reparing it instead.

I went to school for autobody two years ago and they had these cars in the yard rotting out. So we got 3 people a car and we fixed all the rust, and painted it. My group had a 54 chevy 4 door.

But if I can find a shell for cheap, I wil probably go that route, and keep this car and fix it for the track then.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 10:39 PM
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Knowing how to weld is one thing... Wanting to do THAT much welding is another.

I know how to weld........ But screw that man... Price aside, you could create an entire tube-framed car in less time.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 10:29 AM
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That car is no longer safe.

It certainly could be repaired, but it's going to turn into a major restoration project. You're likely going to find that the more rust you cut out, the more rust you find.

Probably the easiest thing to do if you really want to repair it is to get a clip from a good chassis. Find one that was hit in the rear or has other damage yet an undamaged front. Then cut that section of the car out and weld it into yours. This is NOT a first welding project.

A 54 Chevy is not a unibody car. Very easy to fix compared to the RX-7.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 10:36 AM
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omg dude thats terrible, i feel bad for you. Def gotta get that fixed or get a new chasis lol. Prolly go with a less rusty car lol. Good luck

I think we have the same suspension set up, minus the rust






Jason NYC
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 11:32 AM
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seem like a shell it is then and swap everything over.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 11:32 AM
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Holyshit dude its probably cheaper to buy a new car. My car has never been driven in the winter time so my body is spotless. Next time if youve been driving it all year long get a winter beater.
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