not the ordinary kind ...

1400 lbs impact, nothing
Liquid wrench + pb blaster soak, nothing

soak + 1400 lbs impact, nothing
5 foot cheater bar, nothing

holy **** ...

should I go to a machine shop to make a bar + 10 foot bar and try ?

 

That front bolt is stuck like that? Nuts!! It should only be like 180-200ft/lbs or something like that (for an FD).

 

Impact gun wont work if you dont secure the e-shaft properly. You need to lock the motor and use a bar.

 

Last ditch attempt, make the bolt glow with an oxy/acetylene torch and then use breaker bar right away. Will need to replace the oil thermostat behind the bolt though.

 

forgot to mention,

mapp torch burn that ******* bolt till it's cherry red + impact/breaker bar, NOTHING

I have a stopper bar + my brother to hold it down for me so it doesn't spin.

this is why I was about to get my grinder out ... even I have to go thru like 20 discs just to grind the whole thing ... it totally pisses me off !

*sigh*

I dont know man ... I guess I can "only" save the rear housing and rear rotor ...

even I can get it out I'm gonna throw the bolt and the thermostat away

I wondered who put this ******* engine together in the first place ...

I think I'm gonna try to get an 1 in impact that's rated 2500 lbs and try ... if that still doesn't get it off ... I guess nothing else could ...

 

What happened to the motor that writes the front half off?

 

cuz if I can't remove that nut, then I cant remove the int plate, front rotor housing/rotor, front plate and front cover, and e-shaft

so what I'm left is rear plate, rear housing and rear rotor

the engine didnt blow just low compression. was expecting to re-nitrite the plates and use brand new housings ...

but now ...

shittttt

just tried to burn it with MAPP again, nothing

cool it off with water to see if it breaks any rust/whatever, nothing

now I just heat it up again with MAPP torch then spread some PB on it let it soak ... see if that will work, get back to it in an hour/

 

I assume you've hit it with a hammer already? (just because )

 

u mean tapping the bolt or just get the longest cheater bar and hit it with the BFH ?

I did both actually, nothing

ok, I'm about to get **** and take my grinder and 2 dozens of grind disc out ...

 

Damn... yeah, that's what I mean. I figured maybe the slight shock could help break it loose..

Makes ya wonder how the previous builder sealed that up!

I'd def just cut it off and call it a day... Get the rx-8 e-shaft and call it good..

 

I've had a few that were real bitches to get off. One time even had to go so far as to take oxy-acetylene torch after it as mapp wasn't enough. I'd try heat cycling it another couple times then a bigger torch if you can get one.

 

+1 hotter torch. Heat more than you think necessary haha. You need more than cherry glow most likely.

 

probably on a friday, his last engine for the day ...

I found some left over ATF on the shelf, gonna mix it with Acetone and see how that goes, wait an hour...

 

I just bought the MAPP torch yesterday ~

I was at home depot looking at both of them and was like "meh. MAPP should be good enough"

and I paid 50 for it

mmmm oxy-acetylene torch .... mmmm ....

I just re-did the ATF/Acetone mix, before I just mix it with my screw driver, it kinda separated after 2 mins, this time I just throw them into some water bottle, shake the **** outa it, changed to pink, seems to stay that way even after 15 mins.

if this still doesn't work, gonna buy that oxy-acetylene torch ... fuuuucccckkkk

 

my friend locks the E shaft and puts them in a press with a breaker bar. if its an unopened engine its 200lbs ft of torque, with a little threadlocker, and how ever many years of heat cycles....

plan B is to lock the engine, put a breaker bar on the front bolt. then take the jack handle over your head and hit the breaker bar, like you're using a pick axe. buy a breaker bar with a warranty... and be a little careful where you do it, swinging a jack handle around as hard as you can is about the most dangerous thing we do fixing cars (if you're fixing cars correctly)

the impact gun is nowhere near its rated capacity, and you need to break the glue loose with a big shock anyways

 

yeah, I have a feeling all impacts are nowhere near it's power claim, but I was like I give it a 30% hit, it still have over 1000 ft pounds of power right ? (rated 1400)

but after trying 350 (my original garbage impact that I was gonna throw it away anyway), 500, 700, 800, now 1400. all nothing. I kinda give up using Impact (and return this sucker, cost 250 bux at home depot)

I soak the thing with acetone/atf mix for an hour 2 already, lemme see if I can break it loose this time

if still won't budge, Im getting that Oxy/Acy torch ...

 

Mapp gas isn't hot enough. The heat needs to get deeper than the head of the bolt. I had the same problem with my motor. Get the shaft glowing and have a fire extinguisher ready just in case. When mine came out there was so much thread locker on it, it came out on fire. Luckily I didn't just back it out full speed or it could have flung molten firey thread locker everywhere.

This was on a reman btw

 

it might be with like a 3" supply line at 500psi, but it won't be with the normal 3/8"? line at 100psi

you need to put a 10' breaker bar on the engine, and then jump off the roof onto the bar (don't really, but that's the kind of force we need)

 

edit; thought you were trying to get the flywheel nut off

 

well,

the atf/actone mix, as expected, nothing

I cleaned it and burn that **** with my mapp gas for good 10 mins, it turns red again, but still nothing

ok, time to hit home depot to get that oxy/acey mix ...

can't believe I spent 2 days on this ****. and still gets nowhere.

 

lol

this sucks, Im getting oxy/ace torch, **** this.

 

guess what, this is the original engine made by Mazda Japan ~

it's probably having threadlocker on the whole bolt like urs.

shitz, is the e-shaft even usable afterwards? lol

 

Had same issue with OEM stock engine. After trying Oxy Acety & strong impact had to move on.

Found a 19mm 3/4" drive impact socket (thick black) at Northern Tool. Linked it with massive 3/4" drive breaker bar & probably 6-8' pipe extension. Secured flywheel with an attached beefy long square metal tube angled down to deck (eng mounted in engine stand). That ended all the trouble... came loose with a SNAP & threaded off easy rest of way. CRAZY!

Good Luck

 

Yup had same problem with mine soaked with all kinds of penetrating oil all kinds of impacts all kinds of heat for like 2 weeks of evenings... Finally had brother in law stand on engine while I used breaker bar plus 6ft pipe from floor jack snapped loose the came off rest of way with fingers... Had to replace mangled bolt but e shaft was fine

 

Penetrating oil will do nothing for you. It's a long bolt slathered in Loctite.

Normally, I heat the bolt up with a propane torch to get the Loctite hot. Lock the flywheel in place (I have a tool that locks the ring gear) and put a breaker bar and a BIG damn pipe on it.

You can also bolt a chain to the rear housing then bolt the other end of the chain to the flywheel. Use a disposable bolt, the bolt can get bent.

Impact never works for me. You need that twisting, not hammering, force to overcome the Loctite.

Also helps to have the engine on a proper engine stand so it isn't trying to walk across your garage floor.

Funny thing is people always get excited about the flywheel nut. I'll happily take off flywheel nuts, that front pulley bolt is where boys become men.

Dale