Well after bolting up my new exhaust I realized I had a leak where the dp meets the trubo. I tightened it as much as I could. Ordered a new gasket thinking this will help. When I tried to get the downpipe off the nut clostest to the fender it wouldn't come off, only a few turns from tight. Anyways I know I threaded it on right and it came off the first time easily.
This has been a couple of weeks ago. Today I decided to go at it again. I got a breaker bar and kept loosening it with alot of PB. Come to find out the bolt threaded into the turbo is stripped. I can see the shiny metal. The nut is prolly stripped too. So what should I do. It's gonna get real cold here in IN soon. I can't be down a car for more than a couple of days. Should I take the turbo and dp off in one peice? Can this be done? Has anybody ever replaced one of these studs? I tightened everything back down to make the car driveable with the leak.

 

same thing happened to me before.. i took off the turbo with the downpipe on it.. cut off the stud with the nut on it.. tapped the stud out and put a new one in.. its not all that hard..

 

they make tools to remove studs, if you can remove the stud, and chase the thread, or retap

 

What size tap do I use? Where can I get a new stud? What tool is there to remove a stud?

 

to remove it visegrip it hardcore and try to turn it up then put the new one in, shouldent have to pulll the turbo i dont think ( if its hard cold start up the car get it warm and try turning it then)

 

Well I can't get the nut off the way it is. I dunno what to do. I will start it tom. and see how bad the leak is. If it's real bad then I try to take the turbo off. This is gonna suck.

 

I have tools car stud puller, basically some a socket style tool with soft teeth, when you put it around the stud, and rotate it grips on and you can turn the stud out. You will have to find studs from most likely someone on the forum, and figure out what size the stud is to find the correct tap. Should be a pretty normal size npt tap, just do some research

 

NPT tap?
You gotta be kidding me, right?

10mm x 1.5


-Ted

 

heat the bastard up and turn it. Cut the nut off if you have to. There is plenty of stud left to grip it.

 

i might be looking at this problem also....i just ordered corksport DP and MP but when i installed the cat back version the bolt ont he cat got stripped and then the other sheered off....are there any tips to help keep the bolt from stripping or breaking off.......

 

Does anybody know if the thread is the same all the way through into the turbo housing? In other words if I get a stud extractor. Should I turn it to the left like normal to loosen? I would of though as seized as this nut was on the stud it would of came off when i tried getting the damn nut of. fLefty loose, right tight.

 

yes.turn it to the left. Really, heating the bitch with a torch and then bang it a littel bit with a hammer. It will help loosen it up.

 

Is the nut stripped on the stud or is the nut siezed on the stud and the stud is stripped in the turbo?... If the nut is stripped, then just do what The Wankler said... heat that **** up so it's glowing red and try backing the stud out slowly with a pair of vise grips

 

Then nut is stripped on the bolt. It was seized until I got the breaker bar out. Now the nut won't go far either way. I can turn it with my hand at a certain point then it will keep spinning and go nowhere. I can see the shiny metal on the stud when I can get the nut to turn in either direction a lil'. The stud is snug on the turbo and has never moved.

 

Man make sure that dp flange that bolts to turbo is FLAT. I think this is why my **** is f@#$% up. I snug all three nuts down and had a major leak. Never had a **** with the RB. This is how I ended up over tightening the one nut and stripping it thinking it would help close the gap in between the flange and turbo.
Love the exhaust but am pissed if I get that dp off and find out it's not flat.