help! serious electrical issue
#1
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Thread Starter
help! serious electrical issue
I've tried searching, and nothing I found really pertained to my problem.
The car, basically, is receiving no power from the battery at all. It doesn't matter if the key is in the car or not, nothing will turn on. The interior lights don't turn on, the headlights don't work, and the horn doesn't work either. I've checked the battery and it reads 12v strong and I cleaned the battery terminals and posts.
Could any aftermarket stereo work have caused this problem?
I checked all the underhood fuses and replaced the main 80amp fuse, could anything else possibly be the culprit? I haven't checked any of the interior fuses because I didn't think they could cause something like this to happen
Pop starting won't work because nothing will turn on..
The car, basically, is receiving no power from the battery at all. It doesn't matter if the key is in the car or not, nothing will turn on. The interior lights don't turn on, the headlights don't work, and the horn doesn't work either. I've checked the battery and it reads 12v strong and I cleaned the battery terminals and posts.
Could any aftermarket stereo work have caused this problem?
I checked all the underhood fuses and replaced the main 80amp fuse, could anything else possibly be the culprit? I haven't checked any of the interior fuses because I didn't think they could cause something like this to happen
Pop starting won't work because nothing will turn on..
#2
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Thread Starter
I've checked all the interior fuses, but all of those checked out fine according to the multimeter, anyone have any ideas?
Is it possible for battery lines to go bad?
Is it possible for battery lines to go bad?
#3
sometimes battery lines go bad under corrosion or just ripping out of the post connector and making a poor connection. Was it working before you installed the radio equipment? there's an interior fuse that you may have blown, i forgot what it was called but i'd check fuses again and take out the mm and start running some basic tests.... Make sure your ground is good and also do a visual inspection of all the accessible wires. I'm sure somone else can offer more help, keep us posted!
-Johno
-Johno
#4
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Mushy B
sometimes battery lines go bad under corrosion or just ripping out of the post connector and making a poor connection. Was it working before you installed the radio equipment? there's an interior fuse that you may have blown, i forgot what it was called but i'd check fuses again and take out the mm and start running some basic tests.... Make sure your ground is good and also do a visual inspection of all the accessible wires. I'm sure somone else can offer more help, keep us posted!
-Johno
-Johno
The amp was properly grounded, and I had a fuse attached within one foot of the battery or whatever. Am I just that retarded?
I checked where the cables attached to the posts and cleaned em, still nothing Where is the ground wire?
Something similar had happened before, but it was after some rain, and it received no electrical power at all. It started working the day after when it warmed up a bit outside, so I ignored it.
Now it's doing it again
#5
I just experienced the exact same issue you are describing. Where is the 80 Amp main fuse? I checked all of my fuses under the hood and inside. It is only now getting power intermittantly. If I let it sit for an hour or so, i can go out and flip on the lights. When I go to start the car everything kicks off. When I have accessory power, the car will not start. I am a bit perplexed about this.
Does anyone know where I can get an electrical schematic online?
Does anyone know where I can get an electrical schematic online?
#6
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Fish-N-Kid
I just experienced the exact same issue you are describing. Where is the 80 Amp main fuse? I checked all of my fuses under the hood and inside. It is only now getting power intermittantly. If I let it sit for an hour or so, i can go out and flip on the lights. When I go to start the car everything kicks off. When I have accessory power, the car will not start. I am a bit perplexed about this.
Does anyone know where I can get an electrical schematic online?
Does anyone know where I can get an electrical schematic online?
It's held down by a 10 mm on both sides, so don't try tearing it off with pliers before unbolting it (take a guess how I know)
Check the FAQ, or specifically https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...80&postcount=6
I wish I could get the car running for New Years
#7
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iTrader: (-1)
Originally Posted by JeffForSale!
It's held down by a 10 mm on both sides, so don't try tearing it off with pliers before unbolting it (take a guess how I know)(
This happened to me when my battery terminals were bad, try replacing them with the kind you can get from AZ or Napa.
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#8
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Originally Posted by TehMonkay
You aren't the only one! lol
This happened to me when my battery terminals were bad, try replacing them with the kind you can get from AZ or Napa.
This happened to me when my battery terminals were bad, try replacing them with the kind you can get from AZ or Napa.
#9
ok, so I am trying to do this from memory. I know where the fuses are located in the engine compartment, basically right above the battery. and the main fuse is where relative to that again?
#10
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Fish-N-Kid
ok, so I am trying to do this from memory. I know where the fuses are located in the engine compartment, basically right above the battery. and the main fuse is where relative to that again?
#11
ok, so I am trying to do this from memory. I know where the fuses are located in the engine compartment, basically right above the battery. and the main fuse is where relative to that again?
#12
"On the grind"
iTrader: (15)
MY VERT was sitting thru the rainy months and now she wont start just clicks once or twice when i try to jump her turn key to accesory all lights work and voltage goes up to 15 or so then when i go to crank her i loose all power again ... then all power is lost...im having same problem..
#14
Rotary Freak
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It has to be pretty simple.
Make sure the terminals are very clean.
Trace the ground wire from the battery. It will be bolted to the engine compartment by the shock tower. Take that bolt off, clean up the wire connections, clean the threaded portion on the car with a tap, replace the bolt with a stainless steel one. Then trace the ground wire to the block of the engine. Do the same thing there, then post your results.
Make sure the terminals are very clean.
Trace the ground wire from the battery. It will be bolted to the engine compartment by the shock tower. Take that bolt off, clean up the wire connections, clean the threaded portion on the car with a tap, replace the bolt with a stainless steel one. Then trace the ground wire to the block of the engine. Do the same thing there, then post your results.
#15
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I checked the ground and cleaned it, replaced the bolt. Still nothing
The car is literally getting no electrical power at all, can the ECU cause this? It's acting as if the battery isn't connected at all
The car is literally getting no electrical power at all, can the ECU cause this? It's acting as if the battery isn't connected at all
#16
HAILERS
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If your saying you can't turn the lights on and have the headlights come up nor ANY other lights come on, then I"d say it's the MAIN FUSE in the engine bay or the cables/terminal fittings are bad.
IF your headlights work but there is no action out of the ignition key, then its the cable that feeds just the ignition switch that is bad.
No lights means no lights so it must be the batt or the cables on the batt or the MAIN FUSE that is bolted into the engine bay fuse box.
IF your headlights work but there is no action out of the ignition key, then its the cable that feeds just the ignition switch that is bad.
No lights means no lights so it must be the batt or the cables on the batt or the MAIN FUSE that is bolted into the engine bay fuse box.
#18
This is what I did this afternoon.
Take a volt meter and measure and directly across the battery terminals. You should read 12 volts give or take a little. Move the ground wire of the volt meter to a part on the body. Then touch the other lead of the volt meter back to the positive of the battery. This will verify you have a good negative referecen. you should still read 12 volts. leaving the negative lead ont he body pull the fuses out of the block one at a time and check for voltage on each fuse slot. If you dont read any voltage then you know the wire between the battery and the fuse block is bad. That was the problem with mine today. Bad wire fromt he fuse block to the battery. Mine was about a 10 ga.
Good luck. Let me know if this works. Oh yeah and make sure your volta meter is on DCV or VDC (Volts DC)
Take a volt meter and measure and directly across the battery terminals. You should read 12 volts give or take a little. Move the ground wire of the volt meter to a part on the body. Then touch the other lead of the volt meter back to the positive of the battery. This will verify you have a good negative referecen. you should still read 12 volts. leaving the negative lead ont he body pull the fuses out of the block one at a time and check for voltage on each fuse slot. If you dont read any voltage then you know the wire between the battery and the fuse block is bad. That was the problem with mine today. Bad wire fromt he fuse block to the battery. Mine was about a 10 ga.
Good luck. Let me know if this works. Oh yeah and make sure your volta meter is on DCV or VDC (Volts DC)
#19
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I think Hailers has the right idea.. its probably your main fuse.
The main fuse I think is 80amps on S4's and 100amps on S5's... its blue on mine (100a). its right in the middle of the main fuse block in the engine bay. There are two flaps that cover 10mm bolts on either side of it. (disconnect battery) then unbolt those two 10mm bolts. the fuse will slide right out. Go down to autozone and pay the 5 bucks or whatever for a new one. If its not that, it will be wiring or a different fuse in that box.
Does your engine make any noise when its connected? like when you turn ignition on? Does your fuel pump start up? Or is it like.. DEAD DEAD.....
The main fuse I think is 80amps on S4's and 100amps on S5's... its blue on mine (100a). its right in the middle of the main fuse block in the engine bay. There are two flaps that cover 10mm bolts on either side of it. (disconnect battery) then unbolt those two 10mm bolts. the fuse will slide right out. Go down to autozone and pay the 5 bucks or whatever for a new one. If its not that, it will be wiring or a different fuse in that box.
Does your engine make any noise when its connected? like when you turn ignition on? Does your fuel pump start up? Or is it like.. DEAD DEAD.....
#21
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No the terminals are the things connected to the wires that have bolts on them, thats what i am talking about.
Try taking a 10gauge wire or perhaps bigger and jumping the positive battery terminal to the main fuse. See if anything comes on with that, also if you can use a dmm to test the resistance between the fuse and your battery and a chassis gorund to the battery. If there is a high amount of resistance it is a cable, if not it's something wrong with your car, perhaps a bad ignition switch.
Try taking a 10gauge wire or perhaps bigger and jumping the positive battery terminal to the main fuse. See if anything comes on with that, also if you can use a dmm to test the resistance between the fuse and your battery and a chassis gorund to the battery. If there is a high amount of resistance it is a cable, if not it's something wrong with your car, perhaps a bad ignition switch.
#22
Garage Life
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hey, IHAVE YOUR EXACT PROBLEM
Ihad to tow mycar to the autoshop. all they did was wiggle the fuse box under the hood and all the power went back on!! then everything was good for a month.. untill....
eveynow and then the same problem would come up. Now Icant start my car, all the relays make clicking sounds, and the battery will completely drain over night while all the power in the car is turned off.When I turn the key, sometimes the starter will turnover, sometimes it just dies and wont turn over, sometimes it will try to. The battery is fine, I checked it and even charged it. The headlight motors wont work, but the lights work,, and mycar floods more than before, prety much everytime it floods.
now it even got worse, I have to jump start my car, or push start just to start, thenn while im driving all the electricals in the car start flickering and my headlights and tail lights get dimm. I let the car idle and unplugged the battery to see if it will still idle without the battery, but the engine just dies. does that mean my alternator isnt working? all of asudden mycar has a million problems....
Ihad to tow mycar to the autoshop. all they did was wiggle the fuse box under the hood and all the power went back on!! then everything was good for a month.. untill....
eveynow and then the same problem would come up. Now Icant start my car, all the relays make clicking sounds, and the battery will completely drain over night while all the power in the car is turned off.When I turn the key, sometimes the starter will turnover, sometimes it just dies and wont turn over, sometimes it will try to. The battery is fine, I checked it and even charged it. The headlight motors wont work, but the lights work,, and mycar floods more than before, prety much everytime it floods.
now it even got worse, I have to jump start my car, or push start just to start, thenn while im driving all the electricals in the car start flickering and my headlights and tail lights get dimm. I let the car idle and unplugged the battery to see if it will still idle without the battery, but the engine just dies. does that mean my alternator isnt working? all of asudden mycar has a million problems....
#23
Winter sucks
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Why the hell would you drive it for another month knowing that the reason its working again is because you "wiggled" something. Doesn't seem like a iron-clad solution to me.
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