ptrk7_phantom

Hey FC owners,
I went to take my emissions test today and hella epikly failed, well first off as soon as i got there, they were like your cars idle is way to high, must be 1100rpm or under, and my gauges are not working right now so i couldnt say anything

Well after that they check my fuel cap and that was basically it, didnt tell me anything else but gave me a yellow paper telling me i failed cuz of my idle..

So can anyone help me fix my problem? my car idles at a low rpm sometimes and sometimes it like 2.5k rpm or so

Also anyone can give me tips as to how i can pass emissions thatd be great.

Well thanks.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Fix your gauges, and test all idle related components. The factory service manual or a haynes manual can help you with this. You should be idling at 750 rpm when the engine is warm.

rotary#10

iTrader: (38)

check the sticky FAQ about the emission fail... don't worry i didn't pass a few times.

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

Go do a basic tune up. Change your plugs, wires if needed. Fix your gauges + your idle problem.


How old is your catalytic converter? I had to buy a new one when I tested last because I failed so many times.

RandomHero

iTrader: (2)

I do emissions testing. Did they actually put a probe in your exhaust and test your emissions? Or they just said you failed because it idled too high?

If you failed the gas analysis please explain what you failed for and what the limit was. Make sure your car is up to temp whenever you go in for a test.

HAILERS

Has your tach ever worked? Do any of the gauges in the instrument panel work?

If the instruments in the instrument panel work, then go to the engine compartment with the car idling. Pull one of the two sparkplug wires out of the TRAIL coil assy and see if you see spark or not. You might pull one of these wires out to just the end of the coil BEFORE you idle the engine so you don't get zapped when messing with that wire at idle. Keep you body off the chassis and you won't get shocked when pulling that wire out from the coil just a fraction of a inch to see if it's sparking or not.

IF it's sparking, check that other sparkplug wire in the TRAIL coil assy for spark in the same fashion.

If they both spark, the problem would be with a open wire b/t the TRAIL coil assy and the tach/instrument cluster. OR someone had grounded the yellow/blue *Check* connector at the trail coil assy. That is a single wire......in a black bullet shaped connector. The connector does NOT connect to anything. Never ground that wire.

See if you can find out if the above shows spark or not and write back.

Also while idling, pull the plug off your BAC while at idle and see if the rpms drop any or not. IF things stay the same just put that connector back on the BAC.

It sort of sounds like there is a air leak somewhere or the throttle linkage is being held open a bit (cable too tight?) or????

Really would help if you owned a cheap or pricey digital meter.

Also....is your airpump on the engine and is its belt on the pump? Is the ACV in place? Hose from the airpump connected to the ACV? Got a catalytic converter on the car? All the solenoids on the engine? The ones with blue...grey...yellow...orange plugs on them?

ptrk7_phantom

umm they just told me that my idle was too high, before my gauges went out, they worked in the morning, but then the fuse blew out.... but before they did, when i started the car, i think it was sitting around 2k rpm

ptrk7_phantom

thanks guys