help, NO POWER ?
I got a 88 RX-7 GXL non turbo, It will start up easy when cold and idle at like 2k rpms eventually it warms up and just stalls unless i keep the revs up then it won't, but if i just let it sit there and idle it will stall. I noticed when i drove it that it backfired alot when i was around 4k rpms and just deacellarating. It has very lil power. It struggels to get up to 100km thats in like 3rd if i shift into 4th it will start slowing down. Someone told me it might be my apex seal isn't sealing.I was thinking of doin the ATF trick but i haven't done it before. Any suggestions on what i should do or what you think is wrong with my rx-7 is much appreciated
Mike
Mike
You should get your car compression tested - it sounds like a blown motor to me, as well. Mazda dealerships can do it for $60-100. Get their numbers, and report back to us. Ignore whatever the dealership tells you, chances are that they're incompetent.
Brandon
Brandon
I was just working on it and i noticed the person who had it before me had put the spark plugs in wrong he had two trailing plugs on one rotor and two leading plugs on the other rotor i switched them back to the right way i think with the leading on each bottom rotor hole and the trailing on the tops. i started it up and still ran the same ? Should i try the atf trick for a last resort before i swap motors, i got another motor but i don't want to hassel and swap them i want to just get this one goin right if i can.
NO...no atf...atf is used as last resort if lets say your motor is carbon seized or something...if it turns and starts then there if no point in doing the atf trick..check the compression of the car first..it will tell you if you do need a rebuild (or motor swap)
the plugs deffinately were in the wrong place and your sayin that this could blow my engine. Also i noticed whoever had it before me just replaced the plugs and on rotor two top plug wasn't even firing it looked like new just a lil wet
but rotor 1 was firing and it had the leading plug in the top hole
but rotor 1 was firing and it had the leading plug in the top hole
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Doh! Sorry to hear it.
I'd look into rebuilding it yourself. Go download the Factory Service Manual at www.fc3s.org, and pull that motor
. Heck if two idiots (my buddy and I, both 17) can rebuild a motor, I'm sure almost anybody can 
Good luck
Manolis
I'd look into rebuilding it yourself. Go download the Factory Service Manual at www.fc3s.org, and pull that motor
. Heck if two idiots (my buddy and I, both 17) can rebuild a motor, I'm sure almost anybody can 
Good luck
Manolis
Also it now idles at like 1100rpms smoothly but sometimes it surges a bit to like 900rpms and it starts shakin a bit then goes back up to 1100rpms.should i try the atf trick?
atf is only used when a) unflooding a extremely severely flooded car or b) trying to get a seized(carbon lock up) motor to turn..and even then i would recomend push starting it before doing atf trick...the reason why it works is because it helps build up compressiona and breaks down the carbon particles...if im wrong someone please correct me..
ps.. the answer to your question will more then likely be no.
ps.. the answer to your question will more then likely be no.
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