Help after engine fire
12-17-08, 12:09 PM
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Help after engine fire
1988 non turbo...
So... I waited too long to fix fuel leak. Had a "small" engine fire today and need some advice on repair (picture attached). I think I can get it going again by replacing the Throttle Sensor (burned up pretty good), bypassing the Double Throttle control, replacing some fuel lines and vacuum hoses. My main concerns are:
1. was there any damage to the pressure regulator? (appears that only the fuel line was burned off, but not sure how much heat the regulator got).
2. bypassing the double throttle. I live in IL where it gets pretty cold, so wonder if I'll have cold start issues without it.
Also, looking at the picture, do any of you see any other concerns I might encounter? The fire was a result of a leaking fuel hose (probably going to the pulsating damper, but not sure). I could smell the fuel, see some gas on top of engine, but could never see the leak. been on my list to fix (damn procrastination). I was able to put out the fire fairly quickly, so the damage was limited to just what you see in the picture. The main wire harness (bottom of pic) is not really damaged, it's covered with burned insulation that fell from the hood.
It's not my primary vehicle, but I don't want to give up on it if I can get it going without too much $$$. Any help/advice would be great.
So... I waited too long to fix fuel leak. Had a "small" engine fire today and need some advice on repair (picture attached). I think I can get it going again by replacing the Throttle Sensor (burned up pretty good), bypassing the Double Throttle control, replacing some fuel lines and vacuum hoses. My main concerns are:
1. was there any damage to the pressure regulator? (appears that only the fuel line was burned off, but not sure how much heat the regulator got).
2. bypassing the double throttle. I live in IL where it gets pretty cold, so wonder if I'll have cold start issues without it.
Also, looking at the picture, do any of you see any other concerns I might encounter? The fire was a result of a leaking fuel hose (probably going to the pulsating damper, but not sure). I could smell the fuel, see some gas on top of engine, but could never see the leak. been on my list to fix (damn procrastination). I was able to put out the fire fairly quickly, so the damage was limited to just what you see in the picture. The main wire harness (bottom of pic) is not really damaged, it's covered with burned insulation that fell from the hood.
It's not my primary vehicle, but I don't want to give up on it if I can get it going without too much $$$. Any help/advice would be great.
12-18-08, 02:56 AM
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Been through this, twice unfortunately.
It may not look like it right now. But you for sure damaged your engine harness. Replace it.
You're oil meter lines are melted gone.
Anything electrical (TPS, etc.) mounted on or near the intake damage area should be replaced.
You're injector tops are probably nice and toasty now.
In truth, what you need to do is pull your upper intake and make a list of ANYTHING that looks suspicious. Then take that list to your local Pic a Part. Send injectors out for flush n tune, be they salvaged or from Pic a Part.
Buy a NEW Pulsation Damper. Don't even think about going used no matter how good the used on looks. Same goes for the little coolant hoses.
S4's Being the most common 2nd gens, good chance you'll find everything you need with little damage to your wallet.
It may not look like it right now. But you for sure damaged your engine harness. Replace it.
You're oil meter lines are melted gone.
Anything electrical (TPS, etc.) mounted on or near the intake damage area should be replaced.
You're injector tops are probably nice and toasty now.
In truth, what you need to do is pull your upper intake and make a list of ANYTHING that looks suspicious. Then take that list to your local Pic a Part. Send injectors out for flush n tune, be they salvaged or from Pic a Part.
Buy a NEW Pulsation Damper. Don't even think about going used no matter how good the used on looks. Same goes for the little coolant hoses.
S4's Being the most common 2nd gens, good chance you'll find everything you need with little damage to your wallet.
Last edited by HOZZMANRX7; 12-18-08 at 02:58 AM.
12-18-08, 11:11 AM
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Yup, you were right on the oil meter lines. sorry for getting ahead of myself. Haven't had a chance to get it inside yet (temp is in the teens here). Is this some type of stock tubing I can purchase, or are they special order?
12-20-08, 07:49 PM
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I also had to fix this and what he said is about right. Thoug i just did the banjo bolt mod for $10 vs the $150 for a new PD.
Total i spent on the stuff for fixing the fire damage was about ~$250. but i also replaced a lot of stuff while i was in there i didn't HAVE to.
Depending on how bad it is $250 is a good guess for abase price to fix everything. It really depends on if you get lucky with a local junk yard.
Total i spent on the stuff for fixing the fire damage was about ~$250. but i also replaced a lot of stuff while i was in there i didn't HAVE to.
Depending on how bad it is $250 is a good guess for abase price to fix everything. It really depends on if you get lucky with a local junk yard.
12-20-08, 08:54 PM
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Man, engine fire last summer due to a torn injector grommet. Scary **** man. Now I keep a fire extinguisher handy. It hard it is to put it out especially with the lower manifold in the way.
12-21-08, 12:46 AM
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The comment of being lucky at the wrecking yard couldn't be more true. Both times my ECU survived. But you really won't know about yours until you put everything else back together.
Since you're repairing an '88, your running a high impedance injector system. If you can't fine a good '88 emission loom to replace yours (likely since '88 was the only year for high impedance in S4's), you can use a low impedance emission loom with a minor modification. That modification is you cut the wires to the resistor box and simply twist all the ends together. Solder them, then shrink tubing them, then zip tie them all together for support to keep the tubing from tearing later.
I'd go with replacing the PD with new despite the success stories you might read elsewhere in the forum. including above, regarding the banjo bolt. My thought, there is a reason the factory used a PD rather than a much cheaper Banjo bolt, so should respect that.
Also, I always carry a fire extinguisher in all my RX7's now.
Last edited by HOZZMANRX7; 12-21-08 at 12:51 AM.
12-21-08, 12:55 AM
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You'll want to replace the oil meter lines with new or good condition used. I wouldn't try repairing/rebuilding your old ones.
The comment of being lucky at the wrecking yard couldn't be more true. Both times my ECU survived. But you really won't know about yours until you put everything else back together.
Since you're repairing an '88, your running a high impedance injector system. If you can't fine a good '88 emission loom to replace yours (likely since '88 was the only year for high impedance in S4's), you can use a low impedance emission loom with a minor modification. That modification is you cut the wires to the resistor box and simply twist all the ends together. Solder them, then shrink tubing them, then zip tie them all together for support to keep the tubing from tearing later.
I'd go with replacing the PD with new despite the success stories you might read elsewhere in the forum. including above, regarding the banjo bolt. My thought, there is a reason the factory used a PD rather than a much cheaper Banjo bolt, so should respect that.
Also, I always carry a fire extinguisher in all my RX7's now.
The comment of being lucky at the wrecking yard couldn't be more true. Both times my ECU survived. But you really won't know about yours until you put everything else back together.
Since you're repairing an '88, your running a high impedance injector system. If you can't fine a good '88 emission loom to replace yours (likely since '88 was the only year for high impedance in S4's), you can use a low impedance emission loom with a minor modification. That modification is you cut the wires to the resistor box and simply twist all the ends together. Solder them, then shrink tubing them, then zip tie them all together for support to keep the tubing from tearing later.
I'd go with replacing the PD with new despite the success stories you might read elsewhere in the forum. including above, regarding the banjo bolt. My thought, there is a reason the factory used a PD rather than a much cheaper Banjo bolt, so should respect that.
Also, I always carry a fire extinguisher in all my RX7's now.
You might just want to block the OMP off and run pre-mix in your car. would be easier and cheaper that is for sure.
As far as the banjo bolt mod goes, i just could not justify the $150 for a new PD on a car that i spent $500 on. plus if this engine goes i will just drop an LS1 in it then get a 3rd gen for my rotary pleasure.
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12-21-08, 01:48 AM
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12-21-08, 06:46 AM
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I also had to fix this and what he said is about right. Thoug i just did the banjo bolt mod for $10 vs the $150 for a new PD.
Total i spent on the stuff for fixing the fire damage was about ~$250. but i also replaced a lot of stuff while i was in there i didn't HAVE to.
Depending on how bad it is $250 is a good guess for abase price to fix everything. It really depends on if you get lucky with a local junk yard.
Total i spent on the stuff for fixing the fire damage was about ~$250. but i also replaced a lot of stuff while i was in there i didn't HAVE to.
Depending on how bad it is $250 is a good guess for abase price to fix everything. It really depends on if you get lucky with a local junk yard.
12-21-08, 09:28 AM
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Fire story
So, it's in the upper teens, Dec 17th and I have to run a few errands. Heading into Springfield, IL (live about 25 miles north) and smelled some smokey smell while driving through a small town (Athens, IL). Thought it was the car in front of me, but when he went straight and I turned, the smell got a little worse.
Then it turned to a tell tale electrical fire smell, so I started to look for a place to pull over. I was just a block or two from a convenience/gas store, so I pulled in. By now, the smoke is starting to come through the heater vents.
I pull in to the gas station (away from the pumps!) and pull the hood latch. Nothing... we had a small ice storm two nights before and the damn hood is froze shut. So I get out and start to pound on the hood with my fists. black smoke is now rolling out the hood seams. I pound a couple more times, try the latch again, and pound some more.
There's a 7-UP truck driver there unloading soda. He asks "is there a problem?" (like the black smoke wasn't a good clue!) I yelled "yeah, my f'ing car is on fire, and I can't get the damn hood open!" It finally opens and I notice the flames jumping up from the throttle body/ water intake area. And... the damn hood insulation is now on fire (shouldn't that stuff be flame resistant???).
So now, I'm thinking 'save my crap in the car, or save the car?' So I look in the back, and notice my son has some college stuff in there (he just brought it home from school for christmas break). so I toss out all his stuff into the snow bank. I then run into the gas station to get an extinguisher. When I get back to the car, I notice there are no more flames. Mr. 7-UP guy had used his extinguisher and put it out.
I know this sounds like my car has been on fire for an eternity, but it really all went down in about 2 minutes, so luckily, the damage was really limited. No paint damage, vac hoses, OPM hoses, dampener (obviously the cuplprit), engine harness, TPS, and maybe pressure regulator. could have been much worse.
Then it turned to a tell tale electrical fire smell, so I started to look for a place to pull over. I was just a block or two from a convenience/gas store, so I pulled in. By now, the smoke is starting to come through the heater vents.
I pull in to the gas station (away from the pumps!) and pull the hood latch. Nothing... we had a small ice storm two nights before and the damn hood is froze shut. So I get out and start to pound on the hood with my fists. black smoke is now rolling out the hood seams. I pound a couple more times, try the latch again, and pound some more.
There's a 7-UP truck driver there unloading soda. He asks "is there a problem?" (like the black smoke wasn't a good clue!) I yelled "yeah, my f'ing car is on fire, and I can't get the damn hood open!" It finally opens and I notice the flames jumping up from the throttle body/ water intake area. And... the damn hood insulation is now on fire (shouldn't that stuff be flame resistant???).
So now, I'm thinking 'save my crap in the car, or save the car?' So I look in the back, and notice my son has some college stuff in there (he just brought it home from school for christmas break). so I toss out all his stuff into the snow bank. I then run into the gas station to get an extinguisher. When I get back to the car, I notice there are no more flames. Mr. 7-UP guy had used his extinguisher and put it out.
I know this sounds like my car has been on fire for an eternity, but it really all went down in about 2 minutes, so luckily, the damage was really limited. No paint damage, vac hoses, OPM hoses, dampener (obviously the cuplprit), engine harness, TPS, and maybe pressure regulator. could have been much worse.
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