apsolus

iTrader: (2)

just purchased the car which needed alot of attention to say the least. i was replacing the leaking water pump when i noticed some melted wiring under the intake manifold pulled the manifold and also found a few cracked vacuum lines and also found out the 4 lines coming from the front of the motor to 4 actuators were also broken. then noticed the injectors hiding under the manifold. the harness was all kinds of messed up. so after repairing all that i got the car put back together. replaced the sparkplugs and found out the old plugs were all the leading type. so i fixed that as well. car would not start, ended up pouring trans fluid in the injector holes and got it to fire. its running terrible now.

so i started to double check my work and couldnt find anything. so i unplugged one of the injectors and nothing happened, so i unplugged the other one and still nothing happened. so it seems like my primary injectors arent firing anymore, car ran smooth before but had the 3000 to 4000 flat spot issue. now it sounds like a lawnmower and lacks power. is ther a fuse that controls the primary injectors? what should i look for? also im not sure if this is relevent or not but the rear coil doesnt seem to be firing either because i unplugged both connectors and the idle didnt change a bit. but unplugging the front coil would make the car stall. i hope ive given you enough info to help out here but let me know if you could use more detail.

here is a list of things i did all at once

po had a bullshit aftermarket intake so i found the complete stock stuff at the junkyard and installed it, thought i might have installed the maf sensor in backwards but thats not the case.

repaired multiple vacuum lines and im not sure i got every one of the lines in the correct place.

cleaned fuel injector contacts on the easy to get ones and the ones under the intake.

repaired the melted lines from the front motor thing that attaches to the throttle via a long rod

replaced the spark plugs with ngk. i noticed a L and a T on the block so i assumed leading and trailing. i put the plugs with the blue lines with the blue sparkplug wire caps. i hope i got them in right.

replaced my waterpump, thermostat and degas bottle fitting at the radiator cap.

thats about it..

satch

iTrader: (1)

The injectors on top are the secondary ones and they don't work when idling so the ones that are hidden are the ones used during idling.

So if the secondary injector plugs were removed and the car still runs then the primaries must be working to some degree or the car cannot run.

The connection to the primary injectors might be poor even though you made some repairs. Either the plug connection is bad and not properly mated or one of the wires in the plug are pulled back.

The trailing coil can be unplugged and the car should still run fine but if only the trailing coil was working the engine would then run rough.

Was it the TPS that had the damaged wires? If not then what were the wire colors that you repaired?

The leading coil runs to the bottom of each rotor and it doesn't matter as far as the order. With the trailing coil, the order does matter. The plug wire at the trailing coil closest to the front goes to the front rotor (top) and thus the trailing rear plug wire goes to the rear top rotor.

apsolus

iTrader: (2)

well now that i know the primary injectors are the ones under the manifold i have a hunch i must have installed the coolant sensor connector to the injector and vice versa. can you tell me what color the injector wiring is and what color the wiring to thecoolant sensor on the front cover is? wow thanks for helping me out

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The factory service manual- which includes wiring schematics- is found here: FSM

satch

iTrader: (1)

Front primary is Light Green plus the Black/Yellow wire. The rear primary is Light Green/Black plus the Black/Yellow wire.

The Water Thermosensor plugged into the back of the water pump is Green/White and a Black wire.

apsolus

iTrader: (2)

would this be the reason my "COOLANT FAN" light is on? great advice thanks to everyone for your help! i have a feeling tomorrow im gonna have me a sweetrunning FC!!!

satch

iTrader: (1)

It is stated you have an S4 NA and the coolant fan is found on NA cars that are automatic transmissions or were autos at one point. There is a single wire plug on top of the water pump that is for a temp sensor related to the coolant fan system (and this is not to be confused w/the Water Thermosensor having two wires and a plug just like the injector or BAC plugs. And these two sensors are unrelated in nature) If the warning light is on then there is a wire loose somwhere related to the coolant fan. Could be the wire mentioned or a wire at the fan control unit or the control unit itself.

The single spaded wire for the cooling fan temp switch is Green/Black. There are also two fuses for the coolant fan system, the Meter fuse and the Coolant Fan fuse and both need to be good. A blown fuse could cause the warning light to light up among other things.

apsolus

iTrader: (2)

wow im learning so much tonight, this makes sence. my car is standard trans and now that u mention it. im sure it was automatic at one point. i was under the car today and found the crossmember doesnt fit right, infact the transmission is just dangeling. there is a trans mount but it isnt bolted up and its off center so i couldnt just bolt it up even if i wanted too. infact i thought i saw a toyota emblem somewhere on the trans! wtf....

anyway about the coolant fan, ive got a mechanical fan. i am aware of the single wire connector your talking about, so your telling me its only used in the auto trans cars? so if i unplug it will i loose the light? im gonna have to take some pics and show you what im talking about with the transmission.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You could just pull the bulb from the idiot light unit or you could unplug the coolant control unit or you could figure out why the fan is not working.

apsolus

iTrader: (2)

so the mechanical fan has temp sensors? i didnt know that. hmmmmmmmm

well now im possitive the car was once an automatic cause even the radiator is for an automatic!

anyway, the car is running great! now its firing on both rotors. turns out i did install the injector and coolant connectors backwards. wow holy **** this rotory motor is killer fun. maybe im comparing it to my geo but still lol. i found an issue with the idle though. it was idling high and i found what looks like a coolant controlled thermostat looking thing on the back of the throttle body that aint moving, so in the meantime i shoved some paper towel in ther and i got the idle down to 1100 rpm.

thanks again for your help peeps!

satch

iTrader: (1)

On an initial cold start the car idles at about 3000 rpm for 17 seconds then it drops to 1500 or so and then slowly over time it should drop to around 750 rpm. The item on the back of the throttle body is the Fast Idle Cam System which slowly drops the idle based on the coolant temp as it warms up the idle drops. The system has a metal rod jutting downward and it rests upon the throttle linkage. As the coolant heats up the rod extends downward even further and presses down on the linkage which causes the primary throttle plate to close and thus a drop in the idle speed. This system might be the cause for your high idle or possibly be caused by an incorrect timing or a throttle cable not set right. If you press downward on the rear linkage w/the upside down screw (screw presses up against the rod from the Fast Idle System) and the idle drops then you possibly found the cause for the above average idle.

apsolus

iTrader: (2)

thanks satch, ill probably just bypass this crap and deal with cold idle issues manually. so i unplugged the BAC unit and not a thing happened. still revved at
2k. shouldnt the idle drop with the unit unplugged?

tomorrow im doing the oil pan gasket, anyone got anytips and tricks to share with me? looks like if i removed the right side motor mount and use a poll jack i can get the oil pan out pretty easy right? should i be looking for anything in perticular when i have the pan off? my oil pressure is usually around 40 psi or higher driving.