has anyone use Alumaloy?? 6port turbo peripheral port?
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has anyone use Alumaloy?? 6port turbo peripheral port?
im doing a 6port turbo using a turbo intake manifold. http://www.aaroncake.net/rx7/4PortLIMTo6Port.htm instead of using JB weld i was wondering if Alumaloy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZ5sD9hQTyw would be a good substitute? and would this be good filler for a P-port job
i have tried alumaloy before, it hardly flows as well as it does in the video. or perhaps i'm just a knucklehead and couldn't get it to just the right temperature. the aluminum base was melting before the alumaloy flowed into the joint.
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: And the horse he rode in on...
I have used it successfully. I have attached bungs onto my aluminum radiator and also several test parts.
It actually flows and works just like the video. HOWEVER-you must get the parts hot and then use the stick like solder, ie you cannot melt the stick and get it to flow. You must get the parts hot and rub the stick along the parts. The parts melt the stick and then it works great. You also must clean the oxidation, anodization etc from the aluminum using a Stainless steel brush. Very critical to use Stainless Steel.
This means on a large part like the intake manifold, you gonna have to have acetylene.
I also doubt that you can use it for a filler.
It actually flows and works just like the video. HOWEVER-you must get the parts hot and then use the stick like solder, ie you cannot melt the stick and get it to flow. You must get the parts hot and rub the stick along the parts. The parts melt the stick and then it works great. You also must clean the oxidation, anodization etc from the aluminum using a Stainless steel brush. Very critical to use Stainless Steel.
This means on a large part like the intake manifold, you gonna have to have acetylene.
I also doubt that you can use it for a filler.
could have just been some old crap i got dumped with, they were second handed to me from a friend's father so the sticks could have been oxidized and unusable by the time i got them.
i tried to repair a koyo radiator at the end tanks with it, the core started to melt before it was melting the solder into the joint and it would clump versus flow.
the type of gas is also very important, i've tried welding aluminum with an oxy acetylene torch also and unless you get the tip firing cleanly then the metals won't bond. i was mainly trying to see if this stuff worked for repairing rotor housings that had electrolysis but eventually gave up on it, as you can't get a tig welder into the spots that usually are affected.
i tried to repair a koyo radiator at the end tanks with it, the core started to melt before it was melting the solder into the joint and it would clump versus flow.
the type of gas is also very important, i've tried welding aluminum with an oxy acetylene torch also and unless you get the tip firing cleanly then the metals won't bond. i was mainly trying to see if this stuff worked for repairing rotor housings that had electrolysis but eventually gave up on it, as you can't get a tig welder into the spots that usually are affected.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Dec 30, 2011 at 06:40 PM.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,785
Likes: 30
From: And the horse he rode in on...
could have just been some old crap i got dumped with, they were second handed to me from a friend's father so the sticks could have been oxidized and unusable by the time i got them.
i tried to repair a koyo radiator at the end tanks with it, the core started to melt before it was melting the solder into the joint and it would clump versus flow.
the type of gas is also very important, i've tried welding aluminum with an oxy acetylene torch also and unless you get the tip firing cleanly then the metals won't bond. i was mainly trying to see if this stuff worked for repairing rotor housings that had electrolysis but eventually gave up on it, as you can't get a tig welder into the spots that usually are affected.
i tried to repair a koyo radiator at the end tanks with it, the core started to melt before it was melting the solder into the joint and it would clump versus flow.
the type of gas is also very important, i've tried welding aluminum with an oxy acetylene torch also and unless you get the tip firing cleanly then the metals won't bond. i was mainly trying to see if this stuff worked for repairing rotor housings that had electrolysis but eventually gave up on it, as you can't get a tig welder into the spots that usually are affected.
I used propane and a turbo tip.
Durafix is supposed to not require the SS brushing and supposed to be significantly easier to use. I was able to buy the alumalloy locally, since it worked, I didn't buy the Durafix.
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i brushed the area with a clean SS brush and rubbed the stick in well, tried propane, map and oxy acetylene. all had similar results of the base melting before the stick flowed into the joint.
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