fuel injector pulsing with key at "on" position
12-30-11, 11:09 AM
#1
fuel injector pulsing with key at "on" position
Change the title!
In the last 5 minutes, I found what the clicking noise is actually coming from... what I believe to the the duty solenoid, it has a blue connector - which I'm still trying to disconnect.
This is a JDM S5 T2 motor, and by looking at the FSM, that may make a difference at least in the appearance of the valve.
Why would it be pulsing?
In the last 5 minutes, I found what the clicking noise is actually coming from... what I believe to the the duty solenoid, it has a blue connector - which I'm still trying to disconnect.
This is a JDM S5 T2 motor, and by looking at the FSM, that may make a difference at least in the appearance of the valve.
Why would it be pulsing?
12-30-11, 11:39 AM
#3
I did in fact unplug the duty solenoid, and that is definitely the issue. I tested it by the FSMs directions, and its at 32.5 ohms, so it checks out fine. The issue is whats driving it I suppose, and whether or not it is supposed to when the car is off!
12-30-11, 11:48 AM
#4
You removed some info from your initial post. Did you list pin 3R as one of the trouble codes you had as pin 3R is for the Duty Solenoid.
EDIT: The solenoid has two wires. The B/W wire has 12 volts w/key to on while the Blue/White wire should also have 12 volts w/key to on. Chances are the Blue/White wire will not have 12 volts but a fair amount less which will cause the solenoid to engage. Chances are either the Blue/White wire is accidentally grounded out or the ECU is incorrectly sending a ground signal on this particular wire. You could disconnect the ECU plug housing this wire and do an ohm test. It should have a rather low ohm value and if it does not then it's likely that the wire is grounding out.
EDIT: The solenoid has two wires. The B/W wire has 12 volts w/key to on while the Blue/White wire should also have 12 volts w/key to on. Chances are the Blue/White wire will not have 12 volts but a fair amount less which will cause the solenoid to engage. Chances are either the Blue/White wire is accidentally grounded out or the ECU is incorrectly sending a ground signal on this particular wire. You could disconnect the ECU plug housing this wire and do an ohm test. It should have a rather low ohm value and if it does not then it's likely that the wire is grounding out.
12-30-11, 11:54 AM
#5
it was the ATP code... still looking that one up, as RTEK said not to skip that step in the manual.I went out and measured the voltage at the harness when I got it unplugged. One of the terminals is at 12V... I believe the FSM says it should be outputting 2V. I need to go check the voltage at 3R.
12-30-11, 12:08 PM
#6
voltage at 3R was about .18V, this doesn't make sense.
Again, one of the terminals on the harness end of the solenoid was showing 12V, the other was showing about the same (.15V).
Just saw your edited post... so I'll go try that now.
Again, one of the terminals on the harness end of the solenoid was showing 12V, the other was showing about the same (.15V).
Just saw your edited post... so I'll go try that now.
Trending Topics
12-30-11, 12:29 PM
#8
With the ECU plug disconnected you could stick a wire or paper clip into the ECU housing pin 3R and w/key to on see if you have a very low voltage reading and if so then you know the problem is related to the ECU itself. What would be causing it is unfamiliar to me since I have an NA S4 and do not have a duty solenoid but it's possible something is triggering the ECU to put a ground on the wire as opposed to it being related only to the ECU.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...olenoid+clicks
Might supposed to be that way.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...olenoid+clicks
Might supposed to be that way.
12-30-11, 01:11 PM
#9
With the ECU plug disconnected you could stick a wire or paper clip into the ECU housing pin 3R and w/key to on see if you have a very low voltage reading and if so then you know the problem is related to the ECU itself. What would be causing it is unfamiliar to me since I have an NA S4 and do not have a duty solenoid but it's possible something is triggering the ECU to put a ground on the wire as opposed to it being related only to the ECU.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...olenoid+clicks
Might supposed to be that way.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...olenoid+clicks
Might supposed to be that way.
Now I'm back to no codes again, but my idle is really low, and I'm at about a 15.5 - 16 AFR unless I hit the pedal a little bit. I'm gonna go play with the set screw again.
And one more thing, the ECU only shows the voltage for 3R at "off" and "idle," and the solenoid doesn't click with the key off, so I'm assuming it may actually have started WORKING since I got the ECU back from DTI.
12-31-11, 01:37 AM
#10
Rotary Freak
What year car and what ECU?
A series four car that gives a ATP fail code means...........the connector to the ATP inside the car is disconnected. ATP on series four is located in the passengers footwell to the far right and fwd.
ATP on series five cars is internal to the ECU.
BAC's have a duty cycle dut I don't thing the Turbo duty cycle solenoid on series five do. Could be wrong on that last part, don't think so.
BAC solenoids are cylinder shaped. Most all the solenoids are little black plastic outfits with a two wire connector going to them and colored blue, grey, orange, yellow, green, brown, white clips on them.
BAC'S can and will buzz with the key just to ON engine OFF. Not uncommon and not a problem.
A series four car that gives a ATP fail code means...........the connector to the ATP inside the car is disconnected. ATP on series four is located in the passengers footwell to the far right and fwd.
ATP on series five cars is internal to the ECU.
BAC's have a duty cycle dut I don't thing the Turbo duty cycle solenoid on series five do. Could be wrong on that last part, don't think so.
BAC solenoids are cylinder shaped. Most all the solenoids are little black plastic outfits with a two wire connector going to them and colored blue, grey, orange, yellow, green, brown, white clips on them.
BAC'S can and will buzz with the key just to ON engine OFF. Not uncommon and not a problem.
12-31-11, 01:33 PM
#11
What year car and what ECU?
A series four car that gives a ATP fail code means...........the connector to the ATP inside the car is disconnected. ATP on series four is located in the passengers footwell to the far right and fwd.
ATP on series five cars is internal to the ECU.
BAC's have a duty cycle dut I don't thing the Turbo duty cycle solenoid on series five do. Could be wrong on that last part, don't think so.
BAC solenoids are cylinder shaped. Most all the solenoids are little black plastic outfits with a two wire connector going to them and colored blue, grey, orange, yellow, green, brown, white clips on them.
BAC'S can and will buzz with the key just t. o ON engine OFF. Not uncommon and not a problem.
A series four car that gives a ATP fail code means...........the connector to the ATP inside the car is disconnected. ATP on series four is located in the passengers footwell to the far right and fwd.
ATP on series five cars is internal to the ECU.
BAC's have a duty cycle dut I don't thing the Turbo duty cycle solenoid on series five do. Could be wrong on that last part, don't think so.
BAC solenoids are cylinder shaped. Most all the solenoids are little black plastic outfits with a two wire connector going to them and colored blue, grey, orange, yellow, green, brown, white clips on them.
BAC'S can and will buzz with the key just t. o ON engine OFF. Not uncommon and not a problem.
The atp code went away after I pulled the negative battery cable and never came back.
I actually went for a test drive yesterday, now I know how much of a difference the redom chip makes!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
82streetracer
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
7
08-23-15 09:28 AM
86rxNa
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
2
08-11-15 11:51 AM
