guru's need help with oil pressure
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guru's need help with oil pressure
i have an 89 convertible N/A 5 speed. i purchased this car from a junkyard. i have changed the engine and transmission. everything is working except for my oil pressure indication. i checked to make sure its connected. i checked that none of the wires at the ecu had come loose from the connector.i have replaced the oil presure sending unit. i have checked the connection at the back of my cluster.i even broke the plastic(accidently) to check to see if the needle was stuck. i am open for ideas and i am not afraid of the car electricly. note the engine installed was rebuilt.
thanks
thanks
Last edited by stock; 02-13-05 at 10:53 AM.
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Originally Posted by stock
i have an 89 convertible N/A 5 speed. i purchased this car from a junkyard. i have changed the engine and transmission. everything is working except for my oil pressure indication. i checked to make sure its connected. i checked that none of the wires at the ecu had come loose from the connector.i have replaced the oil presure sending unit. i have checked the connection at the back of my cluster.i even broke the plastic(accidently) to check to see if the needle was stuck. i am open for ideas and i am not afraid of the car electricly. note the engine installed was rebuilt.
thanks
thanks
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Originally Posted by Icemark
is the oil pressure sender condensor mounted and hooked up?
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Originally Posted by islanders_rx7
I had the same problem after my rebuild. Check for continuity from the sending unit connector to the guage. With my car the pin @ the oil sending unit was corroded.I am assuming you got the engine running so you have oil pressure or esle it would of have failed by now. You might want to a mechanical guage and get a direct reading and see what your press is.
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We go over this weekly...
The sender and concensor use a wire that is yellow/red, it runs parrallel together to the guage unit in the cluster.
If the sender wire is disconnected, 0 will show on the gauge
if the condensor wire is disconnected, its easier to blow the guage
if either the sender or condensor wire is grounded, anywhere before the guage, the guage will max out.
The sender and concensor use a wire that is yellow/red, it runs parrallel together to the guage unit in the cluster.
If the sender wire is disconnected, 0 will show on the gauge
if the condensor wire is disconnected, its easier to blow the guage
if either the sender or condensor wire is grounded, anywhere before the guage, the guage will max out.
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Temporarily disconnect the "Condensor" (old term for a Capacitor).
This will isolate it in case it has a short.
Take your Voltmeter (you do have one?) and measure a reasonable voltage. If close to 12volts, your sensor is defective. It could be that it is not grounded by the threads...(you didnt use a non-conductive sealing compound did you?) Test by grounding the sensor case.
No voltage means the supply is missing from your meter panel harness (one of the plugs not making contact?). Or the meter in the panel is defective. Try unplugging the harness at the meter panel (round plug ME-2) to see if you have anything at the panel (see page 50-40 of the service manual).
I hate taking the panel apart, if that is your problem.
Good Luck, Dave
This will isolate it in case it has a short.
Take your Voltmeter (you do have one?) and measure a reasonable voltage. If close to 12volts, your sensor is defective. It could be that it is not grounded by the threads...(you didnt use a non-conductive sealing compound did you?) Test by grounding the sensor case.
No voltage means the supply is missing from your meter panel harness (one of the plugs not making contact?). Or the meter in the panel is defective. Try unplugging the harness at the meter panel (round plug ME-2) to see if you have anything at the panel (see page 50-40 of the service manual).
I hate taking the panel apart, if that is your problem.
Good Luck, Dave
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Loosen the oil filter a touch. Have someone start the engine. See if you just made a mess on the ground. NO mess on the ground? Pull the front cover off and then pull the oil pump off and see if the woodruff key is engaged or not (got that from a recent post on this site).
Or buy a aftermarket SunPro mechanical gauge and put it in temporarily. Just in the engine bay will do. Start the engine and see what the real pressure is. Install the SunPro in the same place as where the stock sender goes.
Or go to the fsm. Remove the sender wire and install the resistor that the fsm calls out that gives a meter reading of 60psi. Install the resistor on the sender wire and touch the other end of the resistor to the block. Hold by hand or a alligator clip. Read the meter. What does it show? Anything?
Or crack the oil cooler line a touch at the rear of the engine and start the car. Did you make a mess? Good. Oils pumping. No mess? Pull the oil pump and see if the woodruff key is installed.
OR....you might want to check and make sure that METER fuse is still good.
Or buy a aftermarket SunPro mechanical gauge and put it in temporarily. Just in the engine bay will do. Start the engine and see what the real pressure is. Install the SunPro in the same place as where the stock sender goes.
Or go to the fsm. Remove the sender wire and install the resistor that the fsm calls out that gives a meter reading of 60psi. Install the resistor on the sender wire and touch the other end of the resistor to the block. Hold by hand or a alligator clip. Read the meter. What does it show? Anything?
Or crack the oil cooler line a touch at the rear of the engine and start the car. Did you make a mess? Good. Oils pumping. No mess? Pull the oil pump and see if the woodruff key is installed.
OR....you might want to check and make sure that METER fuse is still good.
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ok guys here is the update
i did find the condenser disconnected. i re connected it and checked for power at the oil pressure sending unit connector. which there was.
oil pressure indication is still not working.
any ideas?
thanks
i did find the condenser disconnected. i re connected it and checked for power at the oil pressure sending unit connector. which there was.
oil pressure indication is still not working.
any ideas?
thanks
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Originally Posted by Kenteth
We go over this weekly...
The sender and concensor use a wire that is yellow/red, it runs parrallel together to the guage unit in the cluster.
If the sender wire is disconnected, 0 will show on the gauge
if the condensor wire is disconnected, its easier to blow the guage
if either the sender or condensor wire is grounded, anywhere before the guage, the guage will max out.
The sender and concensor use a wire that is yellow/red, it runs parrallel together to the guage unit in the cluster.
If the sender wire is disconnected, 0 will show on the gauge
if the condensor wire is disconnected, its easier to blow the guage
if either the sender or condensor wire is grounded, anywhere before the guage, the guage will max out.
if the gauge is blown is there any way to fix it? info only: all the fuses were ok.
Last edited by stock; 02-15-05 at 07:38 PM.
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Originally Posted by stock
do you guys think i am SOL.
if the gauge is blown is there any way to fix it? info only: all the fuses were ok.
if the gauge is blown is there any way to fix it? info only: all the fuses were ok.
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Originally Posted by Kenteth
If the stock guage is blown, it just so happens I have a n/a gauge cluster that I was about to throw away. Teh speedo lever think is clogged up, the numbers are faded, and I've got a replacement. If you need the oil pressure gauge out of it, I can arrange that.
thanks
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Oil Pressure Guage
Back of Gauges:
I'd prefer selling the entire cluster, but If you want I could remove jsut the voltage/oil pressure units and send them. If they are seperable, I coudl send just the oil pressure unit...
Back of Gauges:
I'd prefer selling the entire cluster, but If you want I could remove jsut the voltage/oil pressure units and send them. If they are seperable, I coudl send just the oil pressure unit...
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Originally Posted by Kenteth
Oil Pressure Guage
Back of Gauges:
I'd prefer selling the entire cluster, but If you want I could remove jsut the voltage/oil pressure units and send them. If they are seperable, I coudl send just the oil pressure unit...
Back of Gauges:
I'd prefer selling the entire cluster, but If you want I could remove jsut the voltage/oil pressure units and send them. If they are seperable, I coudl send just the oil pressure unit...
do you have the plastic cover?as i mentioned before i cracked mine. just to be clear this cluster is only good for parts correct?
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The cluster works fine other than the spedometer. If you wanted I suppose you coudl also swap out the speedo cluster with yours and it would work too.
FYI though, its from before I did my auto/5spd swap, so it has the illuminations for the gear selection, and an 8k tach.
I too broke the plastic cover sometime ago. I don't think shipping will be more than $10... If you just want the oil pressure gauge, and i can figure out how to get the thing apart, Icould send just that through usps for probably $4 shipping. say give me $6.00 for just the oil pressure unit, comes to about $10.
Otherwise, for the whole unit, say...$18 shipped.
FYI though, its from before I did my auto/5spd swap, so it has the illuminations for the gear selection, and an 8k tach.
I too broke the plastic cover sometime ago. I don't think shipping will be more than $10... If you just want the oil pressure gauge, and i can figure out how to get the thing apart, Icould send just that through usps for probably $4 shipping. say give me $6.00 for just the oil pressure unit, comes to about $10.
Otherwise, for the whole unit, say...$18 shipped.
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