Ottoman

I installed an OldSchool Greddy/trust kit the other night...

it's the one with the additional injector bungs...

very strange is the number of holes in the bloody thing..

theres a threaded hole for vacuume in the IC pipe..
a 2nd Larger threaded hole for god knows what Under neath an IC pipe
and a 3rd threaded hole right inside the "hot" side endtank of the IC itself...

god knows what the 2nd and 3rd hole are for, ideas?



now for my real concern...

the car wont idle quite right.. unless I hold the AFM door and push it a Tad bit...then it purrs like a kitten

does this mean i still have a vacuume leak? or i need to raise the idle, cuz of the now much longer intake track.

my AFM runs along the bottom of the radiator hose temporarily until i can fab up a new TID, so it basically points down at a slight angle... will that have any effect?


second thing is...

when i first put my 3" exhaust, and cone filter... I used to creep up to 10psi and fuel cut....

so i removed the turbo and ported it out, and re-installed it... boost only crept to 7.5psi max... no more fuel cut...


NOOOW.. with the FMIC in place full pull in 3rd-4th gear.. the boost is pegged at 4.5 psi... Less then stock


even if i had a small vacuume leak enough to cause the car to not idle.. i don't think i'm gonna loose 3 psi from it!

the boost doesn't seem laggier, its just that 3psi disapeared... i don't have my Boost controller yet, it's still in the mail.. so i can't turn it up any...

is it possible the FMIC is causing so much back pressure?
or the ported WG now has an easier time bleeding off air with the added restriction?

is this normal or unheard of?

do i just turn the **** to compensate? or do i have a problem that needs fixing (other then the idle of course)

thanks,

RETed

Previous owner playing with temp or pressure probes at different parts of the intake system?


Yep, most likely...
All those extra hoses and clamps just multiplied your chances for an intake leak...


Yep, that sounds normal, especially with the stock turbo.
Sorry to say...


It's not backpressure...it's all the added piping the (stock) turbo now has to pressurized.
It makes it blatantly obvious that the turbo is serious undersized.


-Ted

Ottoman

on the ball today Ted I see... well looks like i gotta start saving up for the TD06-20G


if i try to raise the boost to 13psi.. will it be the equivilant to running it at 16-17 psi on the TMIC?

or will it be ok to push that much?

NZConvertible

Keep in mind that in stock form the BAC valve, ASV, and air temp sensor were connected to the parts you've now removed. Since this is an aftermarket kit, allowance has probably been made to reinstall all those things so everything still works right. That's the beauty of a quality aftermarket kit compared to a custom install.

The longer inlet tract makes no difference. A vac leak is far more likely.

Ottoman

argh... finding such a small Vac leak is such a pain in the butt!

does WD40 work as well as Brake/Carb cleaner when hunting for leaks? how long do u "spray" that coupling before deciding "ok that's not it, move on" ?

so u don't think it's gravity "pulling" the door closed slightly due to the angle?

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

How much of an angle do you have the AFM positioned at? I'm not sure what's the "max" you can get away with, but it is supposed to be level.

Not sure if Wd40 will work as good. It'll definitely leave a mess though. As soon as you "hit" the problem area, the idle will immediately jump up. I'd spray a certain area for a couple seconds, from a couple different angles before moving on.

If you have a vac. leak, you'll know when you've found it.

Good luck,

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

yep I'd say vac or intake leak as well. ON my old school kit I never had a problem with less boost. Of course this was on two hybrids but the first was a very small hybrid. Anyways do you still have emissions? If not then you should only have a few vac lines left

edit: what did you do to block those holes?

Ottoman

the holes were threaded.. i used a Bolt+RTV to block em

yes my emissions is cancelled... only vac line i use is the one for boost sensor/gauge/BOV...

and the 3 on the back of the mani.