Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That's why duct tape needs to but used around the port to protect against the inevitable grinder slip. That's also the issue with using large air grinders as opposed to a small and controllable Dremel.

Measure both ports to make sure they have the same closing and opening as well as the same width. Use a sanding drum to do the final matching between ports.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

I had just removed the tape then went to quickly touch it up with a sanding stone.

I might just leave the ports how they are. the opening and closing are the same width is the same. They are basical the same size, I just very slighly "squared" the top of the port a little more.

Any word on the E shaft oil jets?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

There isn't any o-ring on the oil jets. Just put them back in with some red Loctite.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Maybe that is what it was. can I use blue?
Thank you

D Walker

iTrader: (1)

Heat kills loctite, so I am not sure it will do much good besides the "feel good" aspect of it. Cant hurt though My crank guy shas some sort of copund he uses shen he puts allen plug in cranks, I should ask him whatit is hes using.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

so I was goin thru my oring set and have a white plastic ring that idk what its for, any one know?

D Walker

iTrader: (1)

it goes around the o-ring for the oil passage in the front cover. I think BDC has a vidoe about assembling the front cover somewhere, I saw a thread or mention of it, but you should search around.

BDC

This oughta help:
http://bdc.cyberosity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1940

The white nylon ring is a Series 5/FD/Cosmo thing for supporting the front cover o-ring. The earlier years' engines didn't have this and just had the o-ring. The earlier motors would suffer, on occasion, from a sheared o-ring, reducing oil system pressure.

B

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

guys, thanks soo much apperiate all your info
I guess I dont use it?
My motors an S4. I didnt see one when I removed the front cover originally.
Im using an RX8 metal front cover gasket do I still use the oring? The front cover oring is the brown one correct?
Thanks again,
James

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

sweet man im doing a GOOPY rebuild as well. got their apex seals, solid corner seals and resurfaced housings. and have ito ported housings and irons

peejay

No. The sealing is metal to metal to metal, no O-ring.

BDC

Yep it's metal to metal but I don't think it will work. The front iron on the Rx8's engine where the front cover oil passage is is flat and has no o-ring land. So, the metal gasket works just fine in that case. But on the older motor, there's a ~2mm odd deep land machined into that spot for either a singular o-ring or a nylon ring/o-ring combo. I wouldn't use the metal gasket with the S4 front iron.

B

just startn

iTrader: (33)

I believe Peejay uses them with no orings with great luck butttt he runs N/A. IDk if boost pressure would effect that area with the steel gasket.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Thanks all. Does anyone else agree with BDC? Im sure hes correct. Has any one else had expierience with this? will the flattend side of the gasket actually hold pressure? Is NA pressure the same as turbo? goopy said itll work fine
thanks,
James

D Walker

iTrader: (1)

I use the metal gasket and the o-ring, worked fine so far on S5 and FD front irons. I also use a tick of Hylomar to hold the o-ring and its nylon o-ring in place while i do this.
In talking with Jonathan he has had people do it both ways with and without the o-ring but I just did not see how I could get enough crush with the metal gasket in place.

Probably did nothing but confuse the issue, but thats the way I use the metal gasket and o-rings.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

thank you very much walker thats would seen to be the best option the brown oring in the goopy package its the correct one right?

BDC

If they've done it and know it works then go for it. I would be a bit skeptical about it, however. It just doesn't "feel" right, if that makes sense. I could be wrong about it, though.

scathcart

Red loctite is an active thread locker until around 260 degrees celsius, far below the temps the eccentric shaft should regularly see. The factory oil jets are installed with Red loctite.

Blue loctite is low temp, and not reccommended as a locker when exposed to high temperatures.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Thank you, I picked up some red loctite today
I met up with vosko and bought his t04z, and picked up my resurfaced flywheel.
I attempted to assemble my rotors today but had an issue with 2 of my corner seals one on each rotor one is just way too tight the other keeps sticking at the bottom.
Iv tried cleaning and switching corner seals but no change. Anyone, have a good recommondation for opening up the corner slots.
James

scathcart

Don't attempt to open up the slots. If the stock corner seals fit fine then the problem must be with the solid corners. Mic them out.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

i hope i dont have that problem

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok well I made no progress on the stuck corner seals but I set half of the side seal clearances to a tight .0015 meaning I can fit the feeler in but its still pretty tight but all the seals move freely and I feel happy with them. Tomorrow Ill mess with the other sides and the sticking corner seals. I put the original corner seals in and they're the same, maybe they need more cleaning, I might call John and see what he recommends.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

rotors and the work station

D Walker

iTrader: (1)

Which corner seals are you using again?

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

goopy soild