bumpstart

well,, i have been busy,,, all corner seals to apex seals = 0.038mm,, all apex seals to slots = 0.038mm

haven't built a 12a this tight ,, ever
- thanks to goopy for a simple but fantastic solution for worn rotor slots


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JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Awsome bumpstart,
yeah your right these oversized seals allow you to runn very tight tolerances, its awsome
I wish I could just throw my motor in but... Im just gonna wait till I can get evrything I need in
Im broke my next check will go to injector and oil cooler cleaning.

I need some advice about what to do about the injector air bleed nipple in the LIM manifold I was gonna just I block it off, should I run it to vacume?

bumpstart

i usually delete little things like that if the nest is butchered
its pretty easy to just plug it in to a purge air source and tee it all up
though it will amount to not a lot to vehicle with aftermarket ECU and tuned around it
,, it all depends on how much of a clean look you want,, and if you wish to push it through EPA checks later

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

We fired up that T2 last friday with the resurfaced housings, pulls 18" of vacuum at an 1100rpm idle..

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Thats awsome!! I have mine still sitting in the basement lol I turn it over everyday and I feel and hear it gaining more and more compression the more I turn it.. Damn I wish I could put it in the car.
Some time this week Im gonna pull my rack out and do the real depower as per the flying miata write up. I have some play in there and am not sure if its because I just partially draind then plugged it. Maybe it holding some type of pressure? I figured its easier to do with out the motor in, minus well do it now, im too broke to do anything else lol

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I don't think you have "play", I think you have variable resistance- caused by the remnants of fluid.
Properly depowering should take care of that.

You might consider replacing the inner/outer tie rods while you're at it.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Theres alot of "play" not resistance my steering wheel is really sloppy while sitting and driving. I really hope after properly doing this itll fix It. I basically just turned the wheel lock to lock a few times to get most of the fluid out and plugged it years ago, but yeah I would replace them if I wasn't so ******* broke lol for the time being I have no play in either of the tierods so I'll leave them.
I might buy new boots and grease them

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i chose to run Goopy seals on the most current build with a GT3571R which will be pushing about 20PSI with auxiliary injection on 91 pump. partly due to their ability to reuse rotors with oversized slots.

will take some time to actually get any real info about the seals until it is fully broken in and tuned, just got it done last night and he has already put 300 miles on his full bridged S5/S6 hybrid setup with no issues(yes, he drove 1/2 a state as soon as i finished it with on the fly development and fabrication work, the engine was still in pieces last friday afternoon). i expect this setup to do right around 500WHP, the old engine made 449WHP@17psi on a non BB T70 turbo which is slightly larger framed. the previous shop used S4 TII rotors @ 8.5:1 compression though which i somehow didn't notice on the previous rebuild 30k miles ago so it was in fact running lower compression rotors, i suspect for safety margin because that shop doesn't do real performance builds and based it off of customer expectations.



Goopy's customer service was one of the best i have dealt with. most people just want to sell you their crap and get off the phone, they were actually helpful and chatty about their setups for high horsepower applications versus other stores who have no clue or don't want to share their experience.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

got any videos^ ?


i spoke to Johnathon about the clearancing on side seals and he told me to go really tight as well. as tight as u could go without binding.

rotaryB-2000

what vacuum #'s did you get pryor?

does anyone have vacuum of a reman engine ?

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty sure his bridged motor vacuum will not compare to a stock ported one, I could be wrong. Tight tight tight that's how I went too how long is the breakin gonna be? Johnathon told me I shouldnt have to break it in past a couple hundred miles..
A vid would be awesome. I love the brapp

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

ya few guys told me break in would be longer with tighter side seals, like a 1,000 miles.
my apex seal slots are about .015mm

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

mine are bought the same. I might just keep driving when I put it in to get the breakin over. Ill probly do a 1000 miles to due to my clearences and new rotor bearings.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

did u ask ITO about the side seal clearance, i know he used to suggest alil looser, like .003 for side seals on turbo motors

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

thats the only thing I didnt speak to him about the majority of that conversation was with Johnathon and got the same info as you,. Ito did however tell me endplay is one of the most critical measurments, and everything must be accounted for the heat expantion of moving part he insturcted me to stay away from the tighter side of spec. I did so, with my original spacer my endplay was .02mm just under spec to tight. I went up an additional 2 spacers. and I believe my endplay to be just about perfect now

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

ya i think he said .02-.025 is where the end play should be at.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Got my knock gauge today it's smaller then I thought lol I removed my rack this morning it was like 50 out had to take advantage of it tomorrow will be in the 30s again sooo....
Later today I'll pull apart this rack post some pix

Xbox howuch did u turn up your sensitivity?

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

well completely disassembled my rack found the old built up fluid causing some type of pressure the way the lines were looped, you could here and feel it moving around when woving the rack back and forth by hand. I cleaned and modified it as per the fliying miata write up. tomorrow ill get some grease and reassemble it. here some pix I snapped

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

here a quick shot of the knock box

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

i turned it CCW some. i was using stock knock sensor on rear rotor housing.

Warm up engine. Ignition should be default. Accelerate engine till red line few times. gauge should respond with second green led flashing. if not, increase sensitivity. Decrease sensitivity if yellow led lights up.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

thank you

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

those boxes are tiny but lights are BBBRRRIIIGGHHTT!!! @_@

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

sweet its a very easy install.
I got bored and went to my garage and found some good grease and reassembled the rack its so much better now

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

just called a semi local radiator shop quoted me appx 65 bux to clean my oil cooler and lines
ill bring it down there tomorrow and sending my injectors out to kgparts
heres a pic of my rack back together

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

got the rest of my seals and springs from goopy. waiting on kitting a o ring kit and front side housing from ITO and i should be ready to stack it.