how much is that going to cost

 

i got bout 540 miles on mine, ima need a tune soon too. i havent started boosting it yet

 

car needs major tuning im looking for a new exhuast system id really like a used HKS single 3in passanger side exit ,all i can find are driverside exits Y?
I might just buy the xs power turbo back and sell the DP its only 300 bux, i have to sell mine to tubby itll be perfect for his car...
but id really like to find a nice used one yah no...

 

Why not fab up ur own?

 

if i could i would..., but for 300 bux i dont think u can beat that. but id perfer a used nice system

 

guys almost have 500 miles on her gonna do my first oil change soon shes running real good started to hit a few pounds of boost but since to turbos so much larger u really dont feel it
here a couple of pix I snapped the other day

 

almost time for a tune huh?
i got bout 850 miles on mine, gotta finsh the wg/ebc plumbing and get BDC down to tune it

 

yeah man i cant wait to roast tires on the highway its a shame i cant drive it after next week for a couple of months

 

Have it up on stands again.. Have to pull the exhaust off to put it on tubbys car, I'll have my new cat back on Tuesday then just have to wait till I get some lut to pick up a RB presilencer, flanges and a new 4in HKS mushroom intake.
In the mean time I purchased a oil changer and sucked up all my old oil and replaced it with new synthetic and an OEM filter. I well spent most of today sanding the clear coat down the car looks the best it has in years.. Can't wait till I can drive again

 

I spent hours on it yesterday stripping almost all the black paint off my front bumper and sanding it down to match the rest of the car...
It looks like a completly new beast...
I just have to figure out what im gonna do now that the clear coats off.. if any thing gets on it its pretty much fucked and will need to be resanded.. so im thinking about buying a **** load of clear spray paint and having my way with it.. any suggestions? i dont wana get the car painted professionally yet.. I just wanted it to look better with what I have.. and Ive done soo

eventually ill get the car painted and the body kit in my gargage put on...but im all go fast now and look good later...lol

 

Stay away from spray clear on white paint!!!

They will all turn yellow and look terrible. If you have access to a spray gun and some real clear that would be a different story. Honestly, if you're not that worried about appearance, just clay bar it and apply agood coat of wax. I sprayed both bumpers, both fenders, and my door and didn't even use clear (lazy on the first piece and wanted them to look the same... )

 

thanx man
where do I get clay bar?
Got my exhaust today.. looks to be a Driver exit... even tho I asked and was told it was a passanger exit..
yah get wat u pay for.. cant bitch for 230 bux right?
heres new vs old..

 

Sorry to chime in but I would suggest you get this clay bar kit, you will get everything you need and the process is very straight forward

Remember if you happen to drop the clay bar on the ground you have to throw it away!!!

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016...0046107&sr=8-1

 

You can get Liquid Clay bar from Turtle Wax, it works the same as regular clay bar in liquid form, use it on clean towels and do it like you wax your car.

best thing about that is, if you drop it on the floor, unlike a "real" clay bar, you don't have to throw your towel away, just use another clean towel and continue.

After clay baring' it, Wash it good and wax it twice then it will be good as new

to "clean" the towel after clay bar/wax, use dish washing soap, it removes wax/clay bar in 1 wash, sun dry it, save it for next wash/wax/clay bar

 

guys thanks sooo much for the info!!!

 

Started her up this morning open DP sounded super sexy. Gonna put my exhaust on this week and hopefully order the presilencer from racingbeat and flanges I need to get it all together.
My buddy took my old school racing beat strutbar home to sandblast and repaint, should get it back this week looking fresh. I need to get new hardware and drill and tap it for the name plate the original allen bolts all stripped..
I hope to brap brap soon..

 

put my exhaust on yesterday looks pretty nice..

 

Decided to ditch the RB universal persilencer, do to not having access to a welder to mock it up myself.. so im gonna get the corksport resonator itll cost about the same but bolt right up, im sure its not gonna be as quite as the RB one but whatever.. itll get me on the road again easier and quicker.
Ive been gradually doing a bunch of small misc stuff to it while its been at the shop.. still need to finish sanding it and claybar..
sold tubby my autometer boost guage, im gonna pick up a prosport when I get the chance to match the rest of my **** and a new 4inch mushroom filter..

 

Ordered my resonator from corksport and a new 4" hks mushrom filter.. I also pulled all my inline fuel filters and cleaned them out, they had a bunch of rust particles from the tank but overall not too bad..
Hope too be driving soon.. I'm gonna put a few more miles on it and start saving for a tune..

 

I like how this engine thread has turned into your bolt on parts build thread and the engine doesn't run 8 pages later.

 

lol I like how you can count and read.. lol
I would think someone reputible like yourself, would have read the 16 pages before coming and talking ****..
The engine does run, flawlessly at that.
I posted cold compression readings just shy of 140 psi, before the motor was even broken in.. the motor now has 550 miles on it now. Id like to put a few more on it due to new bearings..
The only reason the car not being driven, is because I physically cant..
Even, if u read the first 8 pages, you'd of known I broke my arm snowboarding, I cracked my left radius in half and sent it out of my skin.. now with a plate and 6 screws (see xray) maybe you skipped that too? Iv had 2 surgeries in the last 6 months..
I guess I should appoligize for not being abled to drive my manual steering, stick shift lol

I have at least been abled to still do a few small modifications, while Im down..
Soo if ud like to continue **** talking about my building in my build thread without even reading it..
Please be my guest...
Johnathon of Goopy Performance, Judge Ito, and Vosko themselves have already seen it running and are all very impressed with my work
Also with a broken arm Ive built vosko and my motor, along with my buddys 6 prt turbo..
Not sure how much work you've ever done with a broken arm, I promise you I excede it and I have numorous people on here to verify..
Heres my 6prt turbo thread if you wana talk **** in this one too, all was done with one arm..
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/my-na-tii-project-949632/

Ito told me that first thing to change was my restrictive exhuast and intake, Ive done so..

 

lol.

Ok, back on topic. Care to go into more detail about your brake setup? looks like you have braided line coming out of the proportioning valve...
Also, what is that thick braided line that goes toward the firewall? lazily routed oil cooler line? filter relocation?
Finally, I assume you plan to doe something about those 90* couplers in your pre IC charge piping before you start tuning this beast....

 

thanks for noticing ive never mentioned it.. but I did spend alot of time and money on it
my brake setup uses all -3 teflon encaped ss braided line and an fittings, tII booster and reman master cylinder , N/a proportioning valve. Fronts got to B&M line lock then Teed equally to tII 4 pot calipers. The rear is feed down with my fuel lines to a secure location under the center of the rear subframe then equally split to tII rear calipers..
Im using 150 ebay drilled and slotted rotors on all four corners. they have been on my car for 4 yrs now with absolutly no issues I use hawk semi metalic pads.
my pedal is firm and very nice on feed back..
the only issue ive ever had was one of my rear calipers pissed all of my brake fluid out the ebrake lever seal wasnt cool..

 

I don't want to read about your excuses. That's probably not even your arm. Set your post count per page to max. It's only 8 pages of no video links. Maybe if I put a smiley face, the sarcasm will become more obvious? lol I like that garage setup. Looks super clean. As far as paint goes...you could get a Devilbiss Finishline gun for $160? and a quart of HOK clear from TPC global. It's more money than buying cans of clear but I think it's a good investment if you have the space and ambition to learn how to shoot quality paint.

 

Wow! Quite the setup, one day I might get ambitious in the brake dept, gotta get these fd calipers on and replace thee pos's and rotors first though. What's the difference between n/a and t2 prop valves? I converted my abs car to non-abs by bending cutting and re-flaring the stock hard lines and getting a new non-abs master cylinder, but I'm still using the stock t2 prop valve.