Going through Alternators like nothing
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From: Bakersfield
Going through Alternators like nothing
So this all started about 5 months ago when my alternator went out and so I got a new one through the warranty and ever since then I’ve gone through about 8 alternators.
I tried changing the plug that connects to the alternator which helped but as you can tell it took a **** on me yet again.... any ideas on what it could be? Also when I put my key in the ignition from off to on the rpm needle kinda moves alittle (like its getting a surge of energy) and it never did that before. Anways please comment ideas on what it might be....
I tried changing the plug that connects to the alternator which helped but as you can tell it took a **** on me yet again.... any ideas on what it could be? Also when I put my key in the ignition from off to on the rpm needle kinda moves alittle (like its getting a surge of energy) and it never did that before. Anways please comment ideas on what it might be....
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Melbourne, Australia
Did you put a series 5 alternator on a series 4 or vice versa?
They require a different wiring scheme and if you retrofit without wiring modifications it will kill alternators as you described.
They require a different wiring scheme and if you retrofit without wiring modifications it will kill alternators as you described.
Rebuilt alternators can be hit-or-miss depending on who rebuilds them. Other than that, there are a few preventive measures to take to ensure that a new/rebuilt alternator has a fair chance at surviving:
1. If the battery is just plain worn out (eg. 4+ years old), and if it's voltage (engine off, measured at battery posts) is less than 12.4V, get a new one. ANY alternator would work a bit harder to keep a battery in that state charged, hence shorter alternator life.
2. Need to have clean & un-corroded battery terminals and wiring. That includes the B+ power cable to the alternator, and all power & ground cables to the starter, engine block/chassis. ANY alternator will fail prematurely if it's fighting lots of electrical resistance due to poor connections trying to keep a battery charged.
1. If the battery is just plain worn out (eg. 4+ years old), and if it's voltage (engine off, measured at battery posts) is less than 12.4V, get a new one. ANY alternator would work a bit harder to keep a battery in that state charged, hence shorter alternator life.
2. Need to have clean & un-corroded battery terminals and wiring. That includes the B+ power cable to the alternator, and all power & ground cables to the starter, engine block/chassis. ANY alternator will fail prematurely if it's fighting lots of electrical resistance due to poor connections trying to keep a battery charged.
Thread Starter
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From: Bakersfield
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Bakersfield
Rebuilt alternators can be hit-or-miss depending on who rebuilds them. Other than that, there are a few preventive measures to take to ensure that a new/rebuilt alternator has a fair chance at surviving:
1. If the battery is just plain worn out (eg. 4+ years old), and if it's voltage (engine off, measured at battery posts) is less than 12.4V, get a new one. ANY alternator would work a bit harder to keep a battery in that state charged, hence shorter alternator life.
2. Need to have clean & un-corroded battery terminals and wiring. That includes the B+ power cable to the alternator, and all power & ground cables to the starter, engine block/chassis. ANY alternator will fail prematurely if it's fighting lots of electrical resistance due to poor connections trying to keep a battery charged.
1. If the battery is just plain worn out (eg. 4+ years old), and if it's voltage (engine off, measured at battery posts) is less than 12.4V, get a new one. ANY alternator would work a bit harder to keep a battery in that state charged, hence shorter alternator life.
2. Need to have clean & un-corroded battery terminals and wiring. That includes the B+ power cable to the alternator, and all power & ground cables to the starter, engine block/chassis. ANY alternator will fail prematurely if it's fighting lots of electrical resistance due to poor connections trying to keep a battery charged.
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