Gear/synchro related problems.....
#1
brap brap
Thread Starter
Gear/synchro related problems.....
Ok, to make a long story short.....
Lately my car has been running not so good again. To start off.... really, my gears. Between 2nd and 4th, you'll hear either a grind type of noise, or even better yet, cracking anytime I go into those gears. It doesn't happen EVERY time, but for the most part it does....
What does this sound like to you? Is this bad? In your opinion, should I first go and get my gear synchro oil change again?
I dunno, but it's real disturbing hearing the gears pop/crack whenever you shift into them
Lately my car has been running not so good again. To start off.... really, my gears. Between 2nd and 4th, you'll hear either a grind type of noise, or even better yet, cracking anytime I go into those gears. It doesn't happen EVERY time, but for the most part it does....
What does this sound like to you? Is this bad? In your opinion, should I first go and get my gear synchro oil change again?
I dunno, but it's real disturbing hearing the gears pop/crack whenever you shift into them
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
If you have the wrong weight gear lube in there, or the lube is old (more than 10000 - 12000 miles) you could change it. Sometimes a synthetic like the redline MT-90 will have a major improvenment. Make sure you didn't use a Mobil 1 gearlube or a GL-5 LSD gear lube last time, as they tend to eat the syncro's in our trannys. Use a GL-4 or something like the redline MT-90.
But the other end might be driving style (clutch not in far enough or long enough), or a bad slave or master clutch assembly, or a old clutch line between the two.
Driving style is easy to check, just have someone else drive the car and see if they have the problem... if they don't you need to modify your right leg action.
But if it isn't driving style, try bleeding the clutch system first and check the clutch line condition. You should not be able to pinch the flexible line at all. Any give to the flexible line and you should replace it asap.
Rebuild kits for the clutch slave and master are normally very cheap (like $14 each)... so if you got the time, its not a bad thing to do on a 13 year old car even if it is not the problem.
If synthtic gear oil and a a fully fuctioning clucth system doesn't solve it, then you may need to rebuild the tranny or learn how to double clutch everywhere.
But the other end might be driving style (clutch not in far enough or long enough), or a bad slave or master clutch assembly, or a old clutch line between the two.
Driving style is easy to check, just have someone else drive the car and see if they have the problem... if they don't you need to modify your right leg action.
But if it isn't driving style, try bleeding the clutch system first and check the clutch line condition. You should not be able to pinch the flexible line at all. Any give to the flexible line and you should replace it asap.
Rebuild kits for the clutch slave and master are normally very cheap (like $14 each)... so if you got the time, its not a bad thing to do on a 13 year old car even if it is not the problem.
If synthtic gear oil and a a fully fuctioning clucth system doesn't solve it, then you may need to rebuild the tranny or learn how to double clutch everywhere.
#3
brap brap
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Icemark
If you have the wrong weight gear lube in there, or the lube is old (more than 10000 - 12000 miles) you could change it. Sometimes a synthetic like the redline MT-90 will have a major improvenment. Make sure you didn't use a Mobil 1 gearlube or a GL-5 LSD gear lube last time, as they tend to eat the syncro's in our trannys. Use a GL-4 or something like the redline MT-90.
If you have the wrong weight gear lube in there, or the lube is old (more than 10000 - 12000 miles) you could change it. Sometimes a synthetic like the redline MT-90 will have a major improvenment. Make sure you didn't use a Mobil 1 gearlube or a GL-5 LSD gear lube last time, as they tend to eat the syncro's in our trannys. Use a GL-4 or something like the redline MT-90.
Nope, I know for sure I used redline MT-90, and I believe that was changed either in May or in June. I'm not extactly sure how many miles ago it was, but I'm sure it wasn't around 10k.
I know for a fact, I never changed out the diff. fluid, do you think that has anything to do with it?
But the other end might be driving style (clutch not in far enough or long enough), or a bad slave or master clutch assembly, or a old clutch line between the two.
Driving style is easy to check, just have someone else drive the car and see if they have the problem... if they don't you need to modify your right leg action.
But if it isn't driving style, try bleeding the clutch system first and check the clutch line condition. You should not be able to pinch the flexible line at all. Any give to the flexible line and you should replace it asap.
Rebuild kits for the clutch slave and master are normally very cheap (like $14 each)... so if you got the time, its not a bad thing to do on a 13 year old car even if it is not the problem.
If synthtic gear oil and a a fully fuctioning clucth system doesn't solve it, then you may need to rebuild the tranny or learn how to double clutch everywhere.
Isn't rebuilding the tranny expensive? I don't want to think that way, and I'm pretty sure it's not that way either..... Oh I hope not.
#5
Engine, Not Motor
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So you're saying that 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear grind? And you have relativly fresh transmission fluid?
Start by bleeding the clutch hydraulics really well. If the problem still persists, make sure that the fluid level in the tranny is OK. If that's good, you're probably looking at an internal transmission problem (worn syncros).
The diff won't have anything to do with it.
Start by bleeding the clutch hydraulics really well. If the problem still persists, make sure that the fluid level in the tranny is OK. If that's good, you're probably looking at an internal transmission problem (worn syncros).
The diff won't have anything to do with it.
#6
brap brap
Thread Starter
update:
Originally posted by Aaron Cake
So you're saying that 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear grind? And you have relativly fresh transmission fluid?
So you're saying that 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear grind? And you have relativly fresh transmission fluid?
Well, not really. It's just mainly my 2nd and 4th gear that make a crack/grinding noise. I do believe I changed the tranny fluid back in April/May, but.. I could be wrong. I know it was somewhere around there.
I'm gonna have to call the guy tomorrow that did my tranny fluid and see if he can do it again. (Redline MT-90 synthetic right?
Start by bleeding the clutch hydraulics really well. If the problem still persists, make sure that the fluid level in the tranny is OK. If that's good, you're probably looking at an internal transmission problem (worn syncros).
The diff won't have anything to do with it.
The diff won't have anything to do with it.
Like I said, I'll check with the guy tomorrow, hopefully to see if I can get him to change it for me again - as I have no way to even jack my car off a bit higher than normal to do it myself (plus it's a pita if I do it that way ) ...
Ah, okay... atleast the diff has nothing to do with it, but shouldn't you change out the fluid in that too? I have yet to do that. Um, do you use the same gear oil as you do in the tranny or is it different?
Edit:
Icemark - Oh, I got someone to drive my car - a buddy of mine (turboshjosh). It happened to him too, so atleast it isn't driver error, but it is something with the tranny.
Last edited by christi; 09-17-02 at 08:35 PM.
#7
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If it's only 2nd and forth, then I doubt it's the clutch.
Sounds definitly like a tranny issue. Check the fluid and make sure it's not low, but it shouldn't need to be changed so early...That stuff is designed to be in a tranny for 3 or 4 years....If it is low, then you have a leak somewhere, most probably the rear or front seal. Rear seal is easy, front is annoying...But deal with that if it's a problem...First check fluid level...
Sounds definitly like a tranny issue. Check the fluid and make sure it's not low, but it shouldn't need to be changed so early...That stuff is designed to be in a tranny for 3 or 4 years....If it is low, then you have a leak somewhere, most probably the rear or front seal. Rear seal is easy, front is annoying...But deal with that if it's a problem...First check fluid level...
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#8
Rotary Freak
If theres any speculation with shifting as a result of the clutch, clutch bearings, master or slave cylynder you can try this simple test;
Warm up the car. Warm up the tranny and bearings too. Drive it around for a while. Pull the car into a smooth, flat parking lot and brake to complete stop. Put car in neutral and press clutch to the floor. Rev the motor up to like 4k rpms and SLOWLY engage the car into 1st gear. If the car starts to roll from this then you may have something wierd in the clutch, bearings, or cylinders.
The more it rolls, the worse your shifting will be between any gears. The car should not want to move with the clutch all the way in. If it does, repare the clutch components.
Sadly, my saab fails this test, and I'm probably going to need a new 3rd gear synchro within the next year or 2.
Warm up the car. Warm up the tranny and bearings too. Drive it around for a while. Pull the car into a smooth, flat parking lot and brake to complete stop. Put car in neutral and press clutch to the floor. Rev the motor up to like 4k rpms and SLOWLY engage the car into 1st gear. If the car starts to roll from this then you may have something wierd in the clutch, bearings, or cylinders.
The more it rolls, the worse your shifting will be between any gears. The car should not want to move with the clutch all the way in. If it does, repare the clutch components.
Sadly, my saab fails this test, and I'm probably going to need a new 3rd gear synchro within the next year or 2.
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