No. That large approx 1/2 inch nipple should have a hose on it. A hose goes to that nipple and the other end of the hose to the Air Bypass Solenoid that should have been mounted on top of the intake manifold just aft and inboard of the BAC. Then there should have been a hose on the air bypass solenoid that attached to the intercooler.

Look at your intercooler. ON the right aft side are two fairly medium sized nipples. The on on the aft side goes to the air supply valve I mentioned in my first post. The nipple on the intercooler that sticks straight out towards the fender goes/went to the air bypass solenod that you seem to be missing. IF you are missing that solenoid..........just forget about it. Plug the nippel on the intercooler that sticks straight out to the right fender and plug that nipple just aft of the BAC. But, you could use that nipple aft of the BAC to supply vacuum to an aftermarket BOV. It is NOT used on the stock BOV though.

Any questions?

 

ok so that is the hose for the bov on the uim... still wondering about the bac ill keep searching if anyone can help its greatly appreciated.

 

The feed line for the spider goes to the large nipple on the back of the intake manifold. You should have either three or in some cases four nipples one above the other back there. One of the three/four nipples is a touch larger than the other nipples. Use that one. NEVER ever attach the spider to the bottom nipple. That one is a vacuum source and oil injectors do not get vacuum at their top.

 

ok i do still have the air bypass solenoid in tatch and now it is hooked to the bac then to the intercooler. thats wasnt the nipple i was confused about it was the nipple on the botton of the bac but i believe that connnect to the intake that runnns from the compressor to the intercooler. also the same nipple thats on the uim next to the bac but im almost positive that runns to the stock bov.. thanks again hailers youve been so much help.. most of the info ive found from searching in from either you are nzconvertable both of you seem to know your emissions extremely well thanks again bro

 

i have the air control valve hooked up but just found out that i have no split air valve for the exhaust plus the exhaust doesnt have a inlet for the valve.... no big deal but my only concern is that i dont have a block off plate. im thinking that i might either unplug the switching line and cap it or just unplug the solenoid. But will the split air outlet be a vacuum leak if my understanding is right air should only be able to exit from here and not enter.

 

Damn... a Turbo II is crazy enough, I can't imagine the vacuum lines on an FD.

 

I found one more question. sorry to be a pest.

The ACV has two large nipples one goes to the Airpump where does the other one go?

 

air injection muffler and then vents to in front of the passengers wheel

 

No. There is a misunderstanding of how things work. The Split Air Solenoid, mounted on the ACV itself, only opens and shuts when you put the lever in fifth gear.

What you are missing, is what is called the Split Air Pipe. It's metal and runs from the rear/out oboard side of the ACV. Oval in shape and located near the water feed pipe for the turbo.

There are times when the SWITCHING solenoid will route air thru that split air pipe, but keep in mind, MOST of the air from the ACV goes to the exaust ports right at the exaust manifold. It passes thru the spoked check valve b/t the ACV and the manifold. You did install that silver dollar sized, spoked check valve, didn't you???????? Yes.

I've never operated a RX without the split air pipe running to the catalytic converter. Hearsay says the catalytic converter will reach its demise a lot sooner if that pipe isn't there. Heresay. I have no practical experience on that.

The split air pipe can't be a vacuum leak. It might blow airpump air out if not covered or blocked off. There is only one internal part of the ACV that can create a vacuum leak. It's called the ANTI AFTERBURN VALVE internal to the ACV. If the ACV is real old, there is probably a small leak there that could be causing a less than ideal idle. This can be overcome with a dab of RTV. You remove the ACV and plug the TWO holes that are anti after burn valve relalated. NOT the two large holes and NOT the hole that feeds the boost sensor nipple. If required I'll post a picture of the two holes.

I attached a OLD jpg of a ACV. One item will be labled Anti Afterburn. That hole can be plugged and the other small hole just up and to the left of the one designated Anti Afterburn can be plugged with RTV to prevent a possible air leak. It will NOT effect passing emissions in any way at all.

 

hailers your the man thanks so much. is the spoked check valve that peddle looking thing. also thanks mark for the help i should have known what that was i was just being stupid.... thanks gain guys about to drop the motor in right now and see if i can get it to fire up. wish me luck.

 

good luck! I had a quick question along the same lines as these. Which nipples see vacuum/boost that I could use for a boost gauge/pressure sensor for megasquirt? I was thinking the bottom of the 3/4 nipple line on the firewall-side of the UIM right near the TB. Also, the small nipple (I think its the one just aft of the BAC, altho when i got the turbo manifold, all of that stuff was removed and blocked off, so im not positive) on the passenger side (for a US model) of the UIM that sticks straight out towards the passenger shock tower can be used for a BOV? Thanks!