Hey guys,

I have an 87 Turbo. the engine just blew with 82k miles on it. I owned the car 6 days before it happened and am having a hard time figuring out why. I know the guy took awsome car of the car.

For the statrers the car is in awsome shape. In 99 he installed Racing Beats full race exhaust (~+59) and a hks air filter and cut out the stock airbox cover., BOSCH fuel pump and the guy has been running redline and then amsoil for the past 60k miles. I checked the oil and it was perfect.

I was driving down the road. First, second, third to about 3.5-4k. blah. I lost all the power and wont idle. CRAP.

Bring it to a shop and blows apex seal. My reasearch sugests that with those mods. it may have been affecting my fuel delivery. I will be getting a placement engine soon (rebuilt/reman...we'll see) WHAT CAN I DO TO AVOID THIS IN FUTURE. and whats your impression. fuel pressure, filter (restriction), injector size, fule pump wiring,

Sorry so long guys, any help would be great

 

the ehaust, intake, and FCD are a deadly combo. on your 87/88 probbaly hitting up to 15psi. there is no way the fuel system can handle that. bigger pump or not.

does it have an aftermarket boost gauge? what grade gas were you using?

 

I was running (cringe) 89 octane with. NO boost guage at all.

What can I do to make this combo stable?

 

Dont EVER RUN 89 OCTANE!!!!!!!! EVER EVER! EVER!!!

Get a boost gauge so you can find out what youre boosting to ... Then if its not more than 9-10, you could get an AFC and richen up the mixture even more. If it IS more than 10, Id rig up some kind of restrictor for the intake to lower the boost a little ( unless you want to get bigger injectors ).

Also, get a A/F gauge and do whatever you have to do to peg that thing green at WOT.

 

Several points...

1) You mention "Bosch" fuel pump, but do you know exactly what it is?&nbsp When we talk about Bosch fuel pump, it's usually the "300lph" fuel pump, which is a royal pain in the *** to install, and most people are not capable of doing this right.&nbsp Could you get access to the fuel pump and take a picture of it?&nbsp Else, there are a bunch of "Bosch" fuel pumps that Hondas use (taken from a Volvo turbo) that do NOT even come close to what a stock FC turbo fuel pump is capable of.&nbsp I picture would confirm which one this is.

2) There was no mention of a fuel pump power rewire?&nbsp Even with the biggest fuel pump upgrade you can stuff into the car, 9VDC is NOT going to get you the fuel potential of the fuel pump.&nbsp Voltage drop KILLS engines.

3) Use of synthetic oils (unless you are pre-mixing) is a NO-NO.&nbsp Read the recent threads about this.&nbsp The mention of Amsoil especially makes me cringe.&nbsp Tear the engine down - I bet there is tons of deposits on the rotor housing.

4) If you're running higher than normal boost levels, don't get cheap on the gas.&nbsp You're driving a high performance vehicle - treat it like one.&nbsp I know it's tempting to get cheap with the gas - I've done it before, but I keep the boost in check!&nbsp $2/gallon for high octane stuff hurts, especially when you don't have a job.&nbsp I've run 87 octane in my car, but I made sure to keep the turbo out of boost.&nbsp I have boosted it with the low octane stuff, and the engine DID ping - the J&S lit up like a christmas tree!

I would wish all you dumbasses would stop hating on the FCD.&nbsp I'm tired of this crap about the FCD causing the blown engines.&nbsp Show me proof of this - so far, my research has shown otherwise.&nbsp Running low octane gas and blaming the FCD is total bullshit.&nbsp THIS MEANS YOU Scott 89t2 - I've corrected your *** before on this, and you still insist on blaming the FCD.&nbsp I'd blame the boost creep and low fuel pump voltage before blaming the FCD.&nbsp I've run up to 17psi on an FCD and never had a problem with a Walbro, Boost-A-Pump, and a ported wastegate.&nbsp I've got a Racing Beat (OLD SCHOOL) FCD that uses a resistor to drop the boost sensor signal.&nbsp I can plug in this unit in any FC turbo, drop a Walbro 255lph fuel pump, rewire the power line, and port the wastegate and run 15psi all day.


-Ted

 

Ted: It's not the FCD itself that causes blown engines, it's the ignorant owners who don't know how to use an FCD that blow engines. But I'm sure you know this. A lot of people I talk to think that the FCD compensates for lack of fuel in some way, where in reality (as you know) it's exactly the opposit.

 

Thanks,

So,

a) port the wastegate
b) fuel pressure regulator or booster ( Boost-A-Pump ?)
c) fuel cut controller (fcd ?)
d) and rewire the fuel pump

no need for bigger injectors?
what gauges are essential? boost? ...fuel pressure?


what else...

thanks alot guys

jared

 

I'm not saying having the FCD is the problem. it's having ONLY the FCD that's the problem. I'd like to see you run 15psi with just an intake, exhaust and FCD. which is what I said was the deadly combo. with no pump, rewire, etc and stock timming.

 

Something tells me you wont be seeing Ted run 15 LBS with no fuel mods

 

what kinda fuel mods. rewire?... injectors?... regulators...?

see ya

jared

 

I had:

3in Rb Turbo back
K&N intake kit
FCD
Rewired Walbro with 8ga wire
Autometer Boost and A/F

I still blew my engine. I think it might've been faulty wiring. Your total fuel safe mods (no turbo upgrade) would be:

re-wired pump
Walbro 255lph pump
S-AFC
(maybe)720cc secondaries.

 

A fuel pump rewire does NOT guarantee adequate voltage to the fuel pump.&nbsp I can almost recommend a voltmeter at this point, cause these stock OEM alternators SUCK!&nbsp My alternator has been slowing dying (it's dead now) over the past two months.&nbsp Peak voltage used to be in the 13.9VDC range; last time the car was running (last month) it was at 13.0VDC.&nbsp Now, this is 4kRPM during the day with NO load.&nbsp Nighttime voltages are close to 12VDC!&nbsp If it wasn't for my Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, I would be freaking right now.&nbsp The fuel pump should be seeing at least 13.0VDC at WOT, even at night.&nbsp If you're getting closer to 12.0VDC, this bad...



-Ted