I have a freshly rebuilt 13b n/a with near new rotor housings and new intermediate housing w/used front and rear housings , new apex seals and springs. very hard to start with out putting atf or mmo in the engine. How long does it take to build enough compression to start on its own and make decent power. (have about 70 miles on engine so far)

 

i think its somwhere around 1200-2000

 

I had no prolbems starting a freshly rebuilt engine. Maybe theres something wrong.

 

Yeah, it should be able to start on its own by now. How does it run once it starts?

If nothings wrong with it, and its just flooding, you might want to install a fuel cut-off switch. It'd be much easier than using atf every time.

 

check your compression bud

 

70 miles and still have to put in atf? it should have just built enough compression, like 85-90psi to get it started.

Have you tried putting in a fuel pump cut switch? it might be flooding all the time when you shut her off. Use the switch to prevnt flooding.

opps, didnt read what "incendui" wrote. I second that

 

Well i have already installed a fuel cutoff switch. When I get it started it ides around 1500 to 2000 rpm up and down. i cant get the timing right for some reason wih out cranking the cas all the way to the end of the slot(have tried about 30 times). Don't know if i have a an intake leak but I replaced gaskets twice(3) no difference. It revs like normal but is low on power(about 30 less than normal).Removed p/s, a/c,a/p and clutch fan. can still drive around town but have to rev slightly higher. Spark plugs look normal(the same on front and rear rotors). I tried adjusting my tps sensor but it just makes it idle higher or lower but it still bounces???

 

Try turning the motor to the proper timing mark on the main pulley (red or yellow, can't remember) and resetting the CAS so you can get the timing right.

 

Also, how are you adjusting your tps? are you using two l.e.d. lights?

a faulty tps and bad timing will cause many problems. so you got to get those right first.

 

My rebuilt ran like **** for a long time. Part of the problem is that the timing never lined up and the trailing plugs were firing at the wrong time. When I turned the CAS 180 degrees from where it should be, everything was fine and thats where it is now. I made a new timing mark on the pulley and stopped thinking about it. Also check for gaskets that might have slipped out of alignment, especially lower intake manifold to engine block. New engines are noisy so its tough to hear vacuum leaks if you have any.

 

I have same problems. Can't get the thing started cold or hot. Trailing coils fire the same as leading coils.

And were the heck to I get the LED TPS thingy??

 

It should be significantly better within 100 miles.&nbsp If you're having troubles after 100 miles, something is very odd.



-Ted

 

That didn't make any sense...
Did you rotate the entire CAS housing 180-degrees?
Or did you spin the wheel inside 180-degrees?


-Ted

 

One would have to assume the later. Unless ofcourse timing was not a big deal, and it was Ok that the CAS not be mounted.

 

Spinning the CAS doesn't do jack. The CAS spins at half speed, so turning the wheel 180-degrees should not affect anything - this is what I'm questioning.

Now, if it's 180-degrees e-shaft rotation, then you're talking about a 90-degree change in CAS position...


-Ted