So I lost my 2 1/8 socket for the flywheel. But, I have that break off tool from Racing Beat for removing the nut; and a 1/2 drive socket top(female part that mates with male torque wrench part).

Could I weld the socket top to RB tool to torque down nut and call it good?

 

I dont see why not... but the local sears had a 2 1/8 socket in stock.

 

You said you have this?
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1...els/22000.html

Check the description:
Calculate your torque based off the length of the handle and a known weight. (Your body)

Check the PDF instructions that Racing Beat offers on the above page.

No welding required.

 

Thanks Pele. That was easier than my African Engineering.

Torque/weight=distance of travel(of tool).

 

i do it that way too, IMO i think its the best way, as nobody has a tq wrench that goes to 350, and air or electric tools won't either.

its like 150lbs man/3 foot bar = one tight nut!

 

I just put my teeth on the nut, bit down a bit, and shifted my head. That ****** is NEVER coming off.

 

The tool is 3 feet long?! I was considering buying it but the engine is still in the car, I think it would be kinda hard to maneuver around :S, any tips?

 

http://www.racingbeat.com/manuals/22...l%20Wrench.pdf All you are doing it cracking the nut loose or tightening it to a final torque. Either way, it's only a few degrees of rotation. If you have the car raised enough to install/remove a transmission, you'll have plenty of room.

 

if it were shorter, you'd have a hell of a time trying to apply 350ft/lbs

 

That's why I have a 10x torque multiplier. Just stop when the wrench reads 35 lb/ft

 

My black friends say it isn't "african engineering" anymore. Current term is "Presidential Solution"

 

dont forget to eat a whole box of wheaties before attempting

 

my snap on gun will do 750 lbs of TRQ i use that gun for axle nut's and NEVER had a car come back whit the axle falling off or any thing like that

 

if you know anything about air tools you will also know that the max rated torque they are rated at is usually at best twice what the impact gun will actually do. my 650ft/lb mac will do about 300 with a good push from the compressor(150ish psi after it's done cycling).

300ft lbs is NO joke. even your example axle nuts usually aren't even 200 ft/lbs.

honestly i just impact the flywheel nuts on as best i can with the impact which is usually about 275-300ft/lbs and i have never had an issue with them.

 

Nice, where can I get one?? :P

 

in oz we call them shady tree solutions
and looking at the RB link, then i dont think i was going about it all that badly


seems i have a big one

 

Well... I kind of acquired one from my job

But Harbor Freight makes one for dirt, and I mean dirt, cheap.
http://www.harborfreight.com/torque-...FY2b7QodiWS4pQ

I don't trust that one. There's no max torque output rating, and it says "hefty 1/2" drive" in the description Seems like it's for removing lug nuts, and that's about it.

Here's the one like I have. It's a 3:1 ratio, so you'll have to input a smear over 100 lb/ft, but that's a hell of a lot better than 300 lb/ft.


http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5001_200315001

And since you're a canuck:
http://www.princessauto.com/workshop...que-multiplier

 

um i work on german cars a lil 2 liter jetta wants 250 trq +180 did a boxerS one time they 380 trq+90 on there axle nuts but yeah the germans dont **** around with things lie that

 

Unless you work in the semi truck industry, some wheel bearing nuts or yoke nuts are upwards of 1000 lbs/ft

then again alot of the techs just impact them on anyways with a 1"

or use a torque multiplier.

 

ever work on big trucks? as i mentioned, if you think that your impact will ever see even remotely close to 750ft/lbs, think again. unless your air compressor pushed 300psi and the tool has new internal seals.

 

Thanks a lot man! Very helpful!