tjeter

ok my car has never flooded on me before this week, its a reman with about 10k miles on it, when i turn the car on in the morning some days it idles on its own, other days i have to tap the gas to keep it from dying ( i dont know what that is), this week though if i drove somewhere, say 8 min away and turn the car off, and come back out it would be flooded. I don't know why it's doing this, this is the second time this week, i have rtek 1.7, intake, walbro fuel pump, 720 cc in secondary, RB turboback. Also when i try to start the car it seems like its kinda struggling and it makes a noise its hard to explain but it doesnt just fire right up and it just sounds like scratchy.. could this be the starter?

HAILERS

Do you know how to depin a wire in a ECU plug?

krishant

you're probably not familiar with the rotary flooding if its not warmed up correctly. There some write ups on here and on rx7.com site. basically you have to let the engine get out of its warm stage other wise when you shut it off during this period the car will flood the next time you crank it guaranteed. If you have to make a short trip and shut it off, in the owners manual and as posted else where it says to hold the accelerator for 10secs at around 3200rpm. This is to burn the excessive fuel and let off of it then shut the car off. Also, it burns off the oil that the oil injectors inject when you turn the key. Never leave the car parked with the key turned or you can possibly flood the engine with oil. In cold weather you can expect some odd behavior from the engine, until its fully warmed up.

krishant

also there are ways of unflooding the car, pull the fuse for the fuel pump and crank the car let run til it stops. Then put the fuse back in and then crank the car. more about this on the rx7.com website...

harley71105

Hailers...could you explain the depin ecu option...I need this info myself...thanks

HAILERS

First, look at the attached jpg and the words. When starting, the ECU does not look at the afm signal. It looks at the waterthermo sensor and then pulses the injectors to a given map for that temperature.

Secondly...a RX idling has a duty pulse in milli seconds of approx 4 ms. I KNOW that is true for a warmed up engine. I've looked at two seperate cars and see the same figure

Thirdly......a RX in the start mode has a pulse of 16-17 ms. So the injector is staying open 16ms for each time it fires vs just 4 ms when idling.

Quite a difference but for obvious reasons.

So, I was thinking a snockered water thermo sensor OR other things related might be the real problem for SOME cars.

EDIT: Oh, the picture with the penny and jewelers screwdriver.......that is the size of screwdriver I use to depin a wire in a ECU plug. You look at the side of the plug opposite the wires and in there you'll see a tab that needs to be gently depressed while the wire is pulled on. It WILL disengage the wire. I'm never broke a ECU plug locking device like that. The penny is shown for size and the screwdriver set was bought at a grocery store for ...what? ....three bucks? The ECU plug shown is one off a wrecking yard mess.

So I got a friends car that has problems starting when run hard but no problems whatsoever when cold or just b/t cold and warm. It does NOT have leaking injectors, so put that to rest.

First I pulled the wire out of pin 3B on the series four ECU. That is the START signal. Thats how the ECU knows it's in the start mode. 12vdc is put on that wire each time the key is held to ....START.

So with the wire pulled and the engine hot, the car started up, unlike prior to this wire removal. Several successful starts.

But it took some feathering of the pedal to start. I think that is TPS related in someway or afm related.

The downside was when the car was stone cold.....it ain't a gonna hardly start at all. Somewhat obvious reasons here. No choke action so to speak.

Down but not out after that.

Next i got a 330 OHM resistor from RADIO SHACK. Not 3K ohms but 330 ohms. Then got a old fuel injector harness connector and installed the resistor in the two sockets of the injector plug. Spliced two wires to the existing injector plug of about two feet and put a alligator clip on each end.

Next pulled the water thermo wire out of pin 2I of the ECU plug (P.S. I already put pin 3B mentioned above back in its plug).

That wire from 2I got shoved to the side out of the way.

Next I got what most people don't have. It extracted a wire out of a spare ECU plug in the shed. It was only about four inches long. I installed it in the vacant 2I hole in the ECU plug and put the plug back on the ECU.

Then I took the fuel injector plug with the resistor in it and cliped one alligator clig to a ECU attach stud and the other end to the four inch wire mentioned above. I put some tape on the alligator to keep it from touching anything.

So now we had a 330 ohm resistor replacing the water thermo sensor. We drove the dog out of that car today and it never failed to start. Even with water temps of 190 on the gauge. The wideband read just fine and dandy during this episode.

So, I thought someone who has a starting problem might try this. If they have a cold starting problem, don't bother. It's HOT starting problem where this MIGHT work. Cost is under five bucks for resistors and alligator clips. Nothing to lose, everything to gain. Some jpg attached. I'd see if this has any effect before chunking out thirty bucks for another water thermo sensor.

And the water thermo checks out right. Even checking voltage on it showed approx 0.4 vdc prior to messing with anything. Did all that several times in the past.

Mordachai

Ok to get a tad OT-
Am I wrong, but can't you put the accelerator all the way to the floor while starting to unflood the car? (instead of pulling the fuse).

Doesn't that open the throttle body and CUT the fuel delivery at the same time?

I know mine's flooded a few times when sitting for 2 weeks or more(due to old leaking injectors- I know- but STILL haven't fixed them! lol) and by putting the pedal all the way down has made it start for me.

BTW- that's worked for both hot and cold starting.

Every once in a while in the middle of a hot Florida day, my car will do the same on a Hot start. MAybe in the store for a few minutes, come out and when you start it, it just spins.
Foot all the way down, Crank for 10 seconds, Wait 30 seconds, foot all the way down, crank for 10 seconds, wait 30 seconds, etc.

Always worked for me.

Again, please correct me if I'm wrong, but that has worked for me in the past. It doesn't fix the problem, but at least gets the car started again.

Go48

iTrader: (7)

My understanding is that what you say is true for an S5 but not an S4.

jdsrx

---I have accidentally pressed gas pedal,,after running and that flooded it 2x,, cleaned the spark plugs,ngk, new spark wires,,,,
------- dont press the gas pedal-----