ok, i finished rebuilding my NA series V engine. now, its seized. this is the 2nd rebuild b/c i pinched a water seal on the 1st try. so the rear rotor kept fillin up with water, but it ran. so, now i pulled it, rebuilt it again, but now, its seized. WTF? i had a difficult time gettin the E-shaft to slip into the bearing on the front rotor, so i used a block of wood and tapped it in, like i did last time. thats what my dad said he thought it would be. so, i did everything the same, but now it wont move at all? WTF? i need help soon b/c all the tools im using have to go back to their repsective owners. please help me out guys... ive been with out my zoom machine for 3 months now...

 

Did you have it running and then it seized or was it not spinning from the time you put it together?

 

Maybe a side seal fell out and its pinched between the rotor and side housing????

I would just take it back apart.

good luck

 

no, i havent put it in yet. but when its out, normally, it spins pretty freely. doesnt take much effort. and yeah, i guess that side seal could be it, but i would hate to find out what happened if thats true! i hope that it didnt damage anything.... i think ill pull it apart again and see whats up. anyone else have any ideas?

 

It is seised. Okay,

I assume that you weren't able to turn it at all when you put it back together. This could mean that the rotor is not traveling on the right eccentric shaft path so somehow you were able to get one of the rotors in a housing incorrectly.

Or, this might really suck. If you did indeed run it with a coolent seal leak for too long and it heated up, you may have warped one of the housings. They are aluminum after all. Be sure to check the running clearence of both housings by using a micrometer to determine warpage. If you do not know how to do this, I have a website devoted to this.

You may be thiking WTF, it ran fine. But the running clearence may have been real close to the warpage tolorence level already, and you pushed over that edge by oh, about .001 of an inch.

 

When you take it apart, your going to find that one of the little triangular pieces that is a part of the apex seals, is jammed against the housing, most likely its in pieces now. Probably scored one of the end housings. Don't try rotating the engine or more damage WILL occur. Just take it apart and deal with it. Do not rotate.

 

The part about tapping in the E-shaft with a hamer worries me...

but, on a lighter note, I have a really dumb question... did you pour a bunch of oil inside the engine like you were supposed to?

when I built my engine, I forgot to oil inside the chambers, and didn't realize it until 1/2 hour after I start freaking out because the engine won't turn. I sprayed a bunch of PB Blaster in the exhaust ports and the spark plug holes and the intake ports and it turned really nicely then

 

you should never have to tap the eccentric shaft down. it is a close fit so the shaft has to go straight into the bearing. the bearings and the shaft should be lightly coated with oil. use vaseline to coat the rotor and side housing faces. use hylomar to hold the o-rings in place. i use superglue to hold the triangular piece to the apex seal and i glue it so it is a tiny bit shorter then it should be so if one doesn't crack when the engine is torqued it doesn't cause the engine to bind/seize. the superglue is cracked when the engine cranks and it can only wthstand 150 F.

mobius what is your website?

 

Make sure you're not pinching the flat bearing that goes around the end play spacer (under the front pully). Other than that the apex seal end pice is the only thing I can think of.

 

the ecentric shaft shoulda just slide in place. if u put a bit of force to it. that could be your problem

 

It would help if you could remember just when the engine would not revolve any. Was it before or during the time you put the flywheel on, or perhaps when you were putting on the thrust bearings and the front pulley? Maybe you should check to see if the thrust bearing has fallen and jammed. I think that was suggested above, and seems a reasonable tack to take. Do you have any end play in the ecccentric shaft???????
EDIT; You had to turn the engine to align the crank angle sensor. Is this when you discovered that the engine would not turn? Or did it seize later?

 

hey man i know this is a stupid thing to say but check and see how tight the flywheel nut is. when i put mine back together the nut was too tight and the motor wouldnt work at all. i loosened it up a bit and it turned fine after that.

 

racingbeat86, Yo I hope you are talking about the pully bolt and not the Gland nut on the flywheel!!!!!! If yo're diving around with a loose FW the dam thing is going to come off and at best just bust the bellhousing worst is could take your feet off. Get this checked NOW!!!!!!!!!!

 

My friend had the same problem last week while building his engine. It turned out that he needed new rotor bearings and he had to buy new torque-to-yield-bolts. Thos bolts are the ones that hold the engine togather. You cant miss them. There is like 15 of them. After he put it back togather with those parts it turned over just fine. Now his(soon to be mine) bridge ported engine is purring like a kitten.

 

dude that sucks... CJ broke his lower intake manifold putting his engine back in, lucky he had another one.

 

The tension bolts are NOT torque to yield. If they were, the torque spec would be something goofy like "tighten in sequence to 20ft-lb, then tighten in sequence an additional 90 degrees".

 

Not to be dumb but sometimes it is the obvious...it isn't in gear is it?

James

 

wow, thanks for all the help guys. thats really alot of stuff to check out so ill do that soon. i dunno even where to start. all those are very real possibilities and ill check them out as soon as i have the time! thanks for all the help. ill update you after i tear the engine down again