Well latly I have been having trouble with the car. Came down to be some timing issues and such from what I could find out. Did the whole voltage checking from the ECU and didnt find much of anything execpt a few little stuff which I got fixed.

Also think my BAC valve is dead or on the way out.

Anyways I havnt been able to get my car under 1k rpms so I havnt been able to get an accurate reading for the timing. But I am getting closer. The car is actually driveable now instead of bogging down once my SAFC read 100% open throttle.

I know I have little problems with my throttlebody. I took it off and put all the butterflys and screws and such back to spec. Had it running at about 750-800rpms for a little while, then all the sudden it started changing on me and couldnt get the idle down. And I notice on the SAFC my thorttle % changes all the time. With some monkeying around I can get it to 0% throttle and then later on it will be at like 10 or 12%. so I think something is sticking open keeping me from getting the low idle. which 'I will be messing with tonight or tomorrow.

Anyways back to my main question here. I looked at this website http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...fying.html#TDC
and learned how to find TDC. On this procedure list it says (#1 Remove both rear rotor spark plugs, and then at #4 it says halfway between your two marks is TDC for the front rotor). Is that some kind of mistake there or is that how you find the TDC for the front rotor is by using the rear??? anyways do i need to find it for both or what?

And when you mark the crank are those the 2 timing marks that I would go by or is that completly different.

And what do I do when i find TDC??? Or like I just asked is the 2 marks both of the timing marks.

 

I think it means remove the front and rear leading plugs. Having both out makes the engine easier to turn by hand.

Why are you trying to find TDC?

 

I know how to do it and such. I just want to know what im suppose to do after I find the TDC, and if the marks I make are the timing marks.

I am doing it because there is something not working right about the ignition and fuel and i am pretty sure it is something with timing, so I am making sure it is all set correctly.

 

no trying to post ***** but i need to know how to find tdc if you can help me out. i just put a rebuilt streetported motor in my car and need to work ou tthe timing issues. because the shop didnt set any of this up.

 

NO. Do as the article says. Remove the rear sparkplug and do as it says. Look at the picture of the rotors in the red display. See the very first set of rotors. See the rotor on the left is the front one and the one on the right is the rear one. See how the rear one has its apex just b/t the sparkplugs???? See how the one on the left is just about to fire??? It is at top dead center. Its at top dead center when?? When the rear rotor apex is b/t the two sparkplugs. http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

That article tells how to get TDC approx. It's not a dead spot on way to tell TDC. Once you find what is approx TDC then 5degrees AtDC and 20degrees ATDC has to be just a guess. Personally I'd try to find a used pulley and put it on there.

 

Or borrow one from a shop and scribe its marks on to yours when you match the two.

 

Are you trying to stab the CAS into the engine to find timing? If so, line up the leading (yellow) timing mark with the timing pointer on the front engine pulley. Take off the round black cover for the CAS. Now spin the lower CAS gear until the little dot on the gear lines up with the mark on aluminum housing of the CAS, and look at the position of the teeth with respect to the pickups under the cover you removed. Memorize this position.
Stab the CAS down and make sure you maintain that position. Rotate the CAS, once fully seated, until the teeth line up in that position you memorized.

Jumper/ground out the ISC and start the car, and let it warm up. Connect an inductive timing light to either of the leading (lower) spark plug wires, closer to the engine, and point the timing light at the front pulley. Stick your hand down onto the top of the CAS, and rotate it until the yellow timing mark on the pulley lines up with the timing pointer.
Tighten the 10mm CAS screw/nut (depends on model), put the round black cover back on, and call 'er done.

 

NO. His problem is that his pulley HAS NO MARKS ON IT. It was on another post of his. That article is an approx way of finding TDC. I find that if you take the pulley off and have the slot for the woodruff key at 90degrees to your left as you look into the engine, that will be TDC. Of course it's hard to say when the keyway is EXACTLY at 90degrees to your left. I still recommend borrowing another pulley and transcribing the marks on yours or?????

 

Where does his post state this?

 

It does not state it. I just remember the old post from last week. There's no way you would have known if you did not read the first post. I might look it up in a bit and reference it. Maybe if I have time. Got any ways of finding TDC other than the article??? Without the marks on the pulley?

 

Degree wheel slid over the keyshaft is what I use Not much good here though.
(modified a summit racing degree wheel)

The keyshaft at 90 degrees is about as good as you're going to do without any special tools. I do agree that a stock pulley is the best option here... finding one used for $5 would be as simple as a one-sentence post in the WTB section.

 

NO. I was wrong. I was thinking about this thread https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hlight=hailers and there is no husemoller on that thread. So I was wrong. He might very well have marks on his pulley. If he has marks on his pulley, then he should do what Scathcat said above.

So, Husemoller, do you have marks? or not? And if you have marks, why are you finding TDC in the manner you described? Does not make sense if you have marks on the pulley.