Has anyone tried filling their Diff and subframe mounts with eurothane?
I'm goin to try this out sometime next week, till i get the MMR mounts
I think it'll work pretty good...
what do you guys think?

 

There really isn't any room to fill in the bushings with eurothane. I have just about every MMR bushing in my car, they work nice. I don't think they have a front diff bushing though, at least the last time I checked.

BTW, pull the whole rear subframe to get at the diff.

 

What is eurothane and how do you inject it into solid metal or solid rubber?

 

Its from Europe : )

 

i was looking at the mounts on a rear end i took outta mybuddy's tii, theres gaps to be filled like on my mx3 engine mounts........if you dont know dont post
im sorry my mis spelling confuses you

 

I'm sorry spelling is hard.

 

ive done it to my old s13 subframe bushings when i swapped a bent subframe. I couldnt tell you the results because I also had subframe spacers/collars before the swap and after teh swap, but on that car there was room. Have you considered the motor mounts? Ive heard of it done on FC, and ive heard alot of nay sayers on here against it as well without experience.

 

Its not that there are naysayers, its that there is nothing to fill. The motor mount is solid as opposed to some mounts that have spaces in them.

 

I made a set of solid aluminum engine and tranny mounts, thats why I want to stiffen the rear mounts up a bit till i get the mmr ones


I have no problem spelling things correctly but on a public forum i cant be bothered, Anyone with any real useful information will know what i mean,

I do apologize though I realize some people have problems reading and it can be very hard to sound words out if they are mispelled, it can be very confusing.

 

If you are going to all that work to get at the bushings, just put in the MMR mounts. It is really not worth doing twice.

 

true!

it might be worth putting the eurothane IN the subframe.

just stay away from the german eurothane, its crap

 

what is it , 9 bolts to drop the rear end, im gonna weld my front diff mount too so its worth while for me

it took me and londonmazda 30 mins not even to drop the rear end on a TII that sat in a field for 4 years, mines alot nicer

 

Its not that is is hard, you have to pull the subframe out, pour that crap in, wait for it to kinda dry then put it back together. You could knock the bushings out and put in the MMRs in that time.

Not to mention, that crap in the bushings will make them INFINITELY harder to remove when you do get the MMR bushings.

If you are welding your front mount, you should be going straight to the MMR mounts. You could break the tab off the subframe if the rear diff & subframe mounts are not completely solid.

 

just get the mmr subframe spacers, seems like the way to go, easy installation.


Id get em if i didnt have a camber link

 

/ressurect

why couldn't you use these with the camber link?

They still retain the rubber subframe mount so there would still be some adjustability wouldn't there?

 

the camber link tilts your subframe, if you look your subframe bushing, it gets twisted/angled so the stud or whatever its called is no longer centered. probably not good in the long run on that bushing overall.

 

What if the solid mounts had a slot machined in them like adjustable camber plates do?

 

Also solid rear diff bushings would make it very hard to adjust camber with the single link.

 

Very interesting. Those look like you can fill, no?

My buddy Filled his 240sx motor mounts and he says it works great. He auto corsses his car more than me. SO i would think this urathane fill works. He did mention that there is a certain kind you must use because the others dry up too soft. I believe he seperated them by colors and one was the hardest.

 

Go for it, its only $3 for a tube.
Yeah ive done the tranny mount in my old 240sx and it was awesome *i went with solid motor mounts*, but ive had done a few sets of motormounts for my friends and they loved them.

Just pool it to the top of the metal bushing on both ends.
Heres pics off an extra subframe/diff i have in the yard


Tape it up than flip it upside down and do the other side