2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Filling 5&6 Port Sleave

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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 01:50 PM
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Filling 5&6 Port Sleave

I am wondering if anyone has used jb weld or something similar to smooth the opening into the iron similar to Pinneapples sleaves. Any luck and what did you use?

Thanks
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 01:58 PM
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Many people have used various expoxies (JB-Weld, Devcon, etc.) to do this. I would expect gains similar to the Pineapple sleeves. Of course there's always the chance the epoxy could come loose after many heat cycles...
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Many people have used various expoxies (JB-Weld, Devcon, etc.) to do this. I would expect gains similar to the Pineapple sleeves. Of course there's always the chance the epoxy could come loose after many heat cycles...
I'm assuming that would be a very bad thing.

Also, does Loctite hold alot better than those products? I ask because that's what Pineapple says to secure the sleeves with.
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 02:12 PM
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Loctite is for very close tolerance fits, while the epoxy is more like a regular glue. So in Pineapple's situation the Loctite is the best choice.

Still, it would not take much more effort to secure it into the sleeve with roll pins...
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Loctite is for very close tolerance fits, while the epoxy is more like a regular glue. So in Pineapple's situation the Loctite is the best choice.

Still, it would not take much more effort to secure it into the sleeve with roll pins...
Why would Pineapple not suggest roll pins? Or has nobody had problems with the Loctite?
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 03:32 PM
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I have used Devcon Plastic Steel Putty with no ill effects... yet anyway.
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 05:30 PM
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Blake Qualley (rotary engine illustrated) had a neat pic where he used nylon minus the port sleeves to get a good transition into the chamber. And Mazdaspeed7 spoke about using a little set screw through the iron to secure what ever material to the port.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by DerangedHermit
Why would Pineapple not suggest roll pins? Or has nobody had problems with the Loctite?
I don't know why they don't use roll pins.

Some have had the sleeves come loose after using Loctite.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 09:03 AM
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I used some of that steel putty. Has not come loose yet. Been in for 2 years. I would not make the start of the ramp so tiny and pointy since epoxy and putty isnt strong when its thin.

BUT. Make sure if you are using epoxy or putty to build out the end of the port in the sleeve to match the housing ports wall for a smoother transition.
example


roll pins would be nice, but you would have to make sure that those pins are not long enough to rub up against the aux ports walls. Plus when they are closed, trying to think of what possition they are in, those roll pins couple possibly come loose and wiggle them selves out? I never used them but just want to throw my concern out there about roll pins.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 08:01 PM
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What about taking a piece of solid stock steel, turning it on a lathe, machining the radius and boring the air passage? This way you could machine a radius that more closely resembles the port. Anyone heard of this? ~rich

Aaron Cake, saw your write-up on the new plenum setup - you have the capability, ever done this? Btw, like your style man...
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 08:08 PM
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I think one should use the end of the sleeve for fastening the plug. A guy could drill a hole in the sleeve and weld the two together. Assuming both are aluminium or steel.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 08:13 PM
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Na luvr that would not be two difficult exept for the area on bothsides of the port. They "cut-back". A comprimise would be handworking the area.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 09:29 PM
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Just thought of something that would be neat to fool around with - what about sleeves that slide in and out instead of rotate? Keep the radius / ramp and use that to close the port when the sleeve is pulled out... making seals to seal the needed pushrods where they leave the LIM should be a breeze. Add some linear actuators to move the valves and presto - you're done. ~rich
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by n/a-luvr
What about taking a piece of solid stock steel, turning it on a lathe, machining the radius and boring the air passage? This way you could machine a radius that more closely resembles the port. Anyone heard of this? ~rich

Aaron Cake, saw your write-up on the new plenum setup - you have the capability, ever done this? Btw, like your style man...
Sounds good to me.

I have not bothered with playing with the sleeves. Never seemed worth the trouble.
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Sounds good to me.

I have not bothered with playing with the sleeves. Never seemed worth the trouble.
Yeah, dont the pineapple sleeves only net 1 or 2 hp?
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 04:34 PM
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I've seen a pic where someone used a punch and hammer to make indentations on the lip of the port to hold the sleves in. I think that would work well combined with loctite and if you make sure that all the metal you displace with the punch goes inwards and doesn't scrape the housing.
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 04:39 PM
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here we go again

btw i wouldn't trust glue to hold either by itself or the sleeve insert... roll pin or set screw is really the way to go... that welding idea is good too.
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