Filling 5&6 Port Sleave
#2
Engine, Not Motor
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Many people have used various expoxies (JB-Weld, Devcon, etc.) to do this. I would expect gains similar to the Pineapple sleeves. Of course there's always the chance the epoxy could come loose after many heat cycles...
#3
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Many people have used various expoxies (JB-Weld, Devcon, etc.) to do this. I would expect gains similar to the Pineapple sleeves. Of course there's always the chance the epoxy could come loose after many heat cycles...
Also, does Loctite hold alot better than those products? I ask because that's what Pineapple says to secure the sleeves with.
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Loctite is for very close tolerance fits, while the epoxy is more like a regular glue. So in Pineapple's situation the Loctite is the best choice.
Still, it would not take much more effort to secure it into the sleeve with roll pins...
Still, it would not take much more effort to secure it into the sleeve with roll pins...
#5
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Loctite is for very close tolerance fits, while the epoxy is more like a regular glue. So in Pineapple's situation the Loctite is the best choice.
Still, it would not take much more effort to secure it into the sleeve with roll pins...
Still, it would not take much more effort to secure it into the sleeve with roll pins...
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Blake Qualley (rotary engine illustrated) had a neat pic where he used nylon minus the port sleeves to get a good transition into the chamber. And Mazdaspeed7 spoke about using a little set screw through the iron to secure what ever material to the port.
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#8
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Originally Posted by DerangedHermit
Why would Pineapple not suggest roll pins? Or has nobody had problems with the Loctite?
Some have had the sleeves come loose after using Loctite.
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I used some of that steel putty. Has not come loose yet. Been in for 2 years. I would not make the start of the ramp so tiny and pointy since epoxy and putty isnt strong when its thin.
BUT. Make sure if you are using epoxy or putty to build out the end of the port in the sleeve to match the housing ports wall for a smoother transition.
example
roll pins would be nice, but you would have to make sure that those pins are not long enough to rub up against the aux ports walls. Plus when they are closed, trying to think of what possition they are in, those roll pins couple possibly come loose and wiggle them selves out? I never used them but just want to throw my concern out there about roll pins.
BUT. Make sure if you are using epoxy or putty to build out the end of the port in the sleeve to match the housing ports wall for a smoother transition.
example
roll pins would be nice, but you would have to make sure that those pins are not long enough to rub up against the aux ports walls. Plus when they are closed, trying to think of what possition they are in, those roll pins couple possibly come loose and wiggle them selves out? I never used them but just want to throw my concern out there about roll pins.
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What about taking a piece of solid stock steel, turning it on a lathe, machining the radius and boring the air passage? This way you could machine a radius that more closely resembles the port. Anyone heard of this? ~rich
Aaron Cake, saw your write-up on the new plenum setup - you have the capability, ever done this? Btw, like your style man...
Aaron Cake, saw your write-up on the new plenum setup - you have the capability, ever done this? Btw, like your style man...
#11
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I think one should use the end of the sleeve for fastening the plug. A guy could drill a hole in the sleeve and weld the two together. Assuming both are aluminium or steel.
#12
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Na luvr that would not be two difficult exept for the area on bothsides of the port. They "cut-back". A comprimise would be handworking the area.
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Just thought of something that would be neat to fool around with - what about sleeves that slide in and out instead of rotate? Keep the radius / ramp and use that to close the port when the sleeve is pulled out... making seals to seal the needed pushrods where they leave the LIM should be a breeze. Add some linear actuators to move the valves and presto - you're done. ~rich
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Originally Posted by n/a-luvr
What about taking a piece of solid stock steel, turning it on a lathe, machining the radius and boring the air passage? This way you could machine a radius that more closely resembles the port. Anyone heard of this? ~rich
Aaron Cake, saw your write-up on the new plenum setup - you have the capability, ever done this? Btw, like your style man...
Aaron Cake, saw your write-up on the new plenum setup - you have the capability, ever done this? Btw, like your style man...
I have not bothered with playing with the sleeves. Never seemed worth the trouble.
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I've seen a pic where someone used a punch and hammer to make indentations on the lip of the port to hold the sleves in. I think that would work well combined with loctite and if you make sure that all the metal you displace with the punch goes inwards and doesn't scrape the housing.
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