2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

A few technical and general questions

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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 04:57 PM
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A few technical and general questions

Ive been wondering a few things as of late and figured I'd ask here. These are all for a 90 vert.

1. Is 300 miles to a tank good for a 90 vert NA?
2. My motor likes to stumble during hard lefts and after searching I found it could be 1 of 3 things. Fuel pump, FP sock, and rusted baffles. The FP stuff is straight forward, but how can I check if the baffles are rusted?
3. Does anyone make an engine damper for verts? All the ones I've seen are for coupes and am curious if anyone sells one or if it's easy to make one.
4. Are body kits universal or coupe specific? Same question with hoods.
5. Has anyone had a problem with their brights only staying on for a short time then turning off? Is replacing the switch the only option?
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 06:34 PM
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1. Hard to tell, easier if you post your MPG rather than miles per tank.
Mormal for a NA (in my experience) is 15-17 mpg in the city and 22-26 on the highway.

2. Probably the sock but you can see the baffles once you remove the bulkhead plate.

3. I'd just replace your motor mounts if you think you need a damper.

4. Universal.

5. You'd need to diagnose further, that's not a common issue. If you have a spare switch to try, that'd be a logical first step.
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 08:15 PM
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Stock body looks good.

My body kit days are over. Wasted lots of money in the past bottoming out, repairing, repainting, and then scraping on an pothole the following week.

Spend the money making your car as reliable as it can be first.
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 10:21 PM
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From: And the horse he rode in on...
Originally Posted by The Laser
Ive been wondering a few things as of late and figured I'd ask here. These are all for a 90 vert.


5. Has anyone had a problem with their brights only staying on for a short time then turning off? Is replacing the switch the only option?
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...arched-453202/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...7/#post9214292

Good Luck!
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 12:12 AM
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I wish I didn't suck with electronics lol. I'll have to look into this later.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by clokker
1. Hard to tell, easier if you post your MPG rather than miles per tank.
Mormal for a NA (in my experience) is 15-17 mpg in the city and 22-26 on the highway.

2. Probably the sock but you can see the baffles once you remove the bulkhead plate.

3. I'd just replace your motor mounts if you think you need a damper.

4. Universal.

5. You'd need to diagnose further, that's not a common issue. If you have a spare switch to try, that'd be a logical first step.
1. It's all highway miles to work and back, maybe 20 is city. I was just curious what other people got.

2. Good, it's easy to diagnose lol

3. Motor mounts are fine, though I plan on going pucks for a cheap stiffening. Was hoping it might help with response even more since I plan on auto-x next year.

4. Does so I could get aftermarket hoods for the vert and they would fit? Good to know for down the road.

Thanks for the replies.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 04:06 AM
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1. If you put in 16gal then 300mi/tank on an S5 is 18.75MPG... Pretty bad if it's all freeway..
2. No idea..
3. AFAIK, the Mazdatrix strutbar with engine brace and the Racing Beat torque brace should be universal coupe/vert..
Though you'll have to find em used, both are out of production now

I'm told that the convertible engine mounts are already stiffer than the coupe ones:
Stiffest > Metal/poly > Mazdaspeed > 'vert > coupe > softest
How many miles do they have on them? Probably just due like Clokker said
4. Yes
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 09:33 AM
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From: Boone, IA
Originally Posted by Derekcat
1. If you put in 16gal then 300mi/tank on an S5 is 18.75MPG... Pretty bad if it's all freeway..
2. No idea..
3. AFAIK, the Mazdatrix strutbar with engine brace and the Racing Beat torque brace should be universal coupe/vert..
Though you'll have to find em used, both are out of production now

I'm told that the convertible engine mounts are already stiffer than the coupe ones:
Stiffest > Metal/poly > Mazdaspeed > 'vert > coupe > softest
How many miles do they have on them? Probably just due like Clokker said
4. Yes
I thought the vert tanks where 18 gal. I fill it to the tippy-top too doing about 75 the whole way lol. My next fill I'll have to figure it out. And I know the vert mounts are already stiff (giggity), just want something that will give me better response, but I'll look out for those parts. I remember seeing a company making one, but it said it was coupe only. I'll look here in a minute since it might have been a RB one. Also, whenever I get on my car on the highway, after hitting about 6k my car shakes like a kid who just saw the porygon pokemon episode. Is this normal for these cars are is something else wrong? Timing is fine and plugs and wires where replaced.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 09:46 AM
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From: Mile High
Originally Posted by The Laser
whenever I get on my car on the highway, after hitting about 6k my car shakes... Is this normal for these cars are is something else wrong? Timing is fine and plugs and wires where replaced.
No, that is not normal and solid engine mounts probably won't fix it.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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From: Boone, IA
Originally Posted by clokker
No, that is not normal and solid engine mounts probably won't fix it.
Any idea what it could be?
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by The Laser
Any idea what it could be?
I am no professional, but my guess would be that your wheels might need balancing.?
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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Yes, you do have an 18gallon tank, but on my S4's 16gallon I can only run it down to about 15g before the fuel pump can't reach the gas anymore, so if you have about two gallons left you've used virtually all that you can [safely].

If you really want stiffer engine mounts, try the Mazdaspeed.. But I'm told that at that level the NHV [noise/harshness/vibration] starts getting annoying

Does the shaking happen in first gear? Second? Third? All?
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 08:49 PM
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From: Boone, IA
Originally Posted by Derekcat
Yes, you do have an 18gallon tank, but on my S4's 16gallon I can only run it down to about 15g before the fuel pump can't reach the gas anymore, so if you have about two gallons left you've used virtually all that you can [safely].

If you really want stiffer engine mounts, try the Mazdaspeed.. But I'm told that at that level the NHV [noise/harshness/vibration] starts getting annoying

Does the shaking happen in first gear? Second? Third? All?
i havent done 6k+ in first, but it will do it in the rest of the gears. almost right when it hits between 6000-6500 rpm it will start shaking. im just hoping a counter weight isnt fucked or the flywheel didnt throw one.
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