volcom_guy18

Hey guys i jsut bought a rebuilt 88 its n/a but id like that to change. so here are the ?s. I've herd that you need 3mm seals for turbo but can you run a turbo on 2mm? If you can how much boost? Next the motor was rebuilt so im not sure what size seals are on it so is there any way to tell how big they are for sure with out riping the motor apart? And last my one friend brought up the idea of insted of putting new seals on maybe using somthigng like a gasket sealent or somthin to put around the seals to keep them from blowing. It sounds kinda dumb but im not sure if that would or would not work. So if all you guys could help me out that would be awsome.
thanks in advance.

hexadec0079

First, welcome to the club:#1 3mm seals aren't required, but useful if on high boost #2 I won't go into why you shouldn't turbo a N/A, just don't
#3 No
#4 On the apex seals? I cannot express to you the seriousness of you NOT sealing the apex seals, if not the apex seals, which ones?
#5 Awesome is spelled A-W-E-S-O-M-E

hexadec0079

PS- use the search tool liberally prior to posting newb questions like this

volcom_guy18

well thanks for replying. the seals i ment were jsut the ones between the housings. but if the apex seals can blow well then thats news to me. and ive never been that good of a speller allways last in those damn spelling bee's. haha thanks again tho

RETed

Who told you that?
You're already listening to the wrong people.

Are you building this for race-only purposes?


-Ted

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

If you bought an N/A, just enjoy it for what it is. The fact that it's rebuilt is pretty cool too. How much did you buy it for?

When you decide you want a turbo, sell your N/A and buy a Turbo II.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

No. All Mazda factory engines since '85 have been 2 MM. There's virtually no added strength with 3MM seals.

For turbo info, please read the FAQ.

Look though the exhaust ports and measure the width.

Presumably this means the o-rings between the housings. Under normal circumstances, the Mazda o-ring is ideal. It is installed with a coating of vascelene, Hylomar or other goo to keep them in place during assembly, but in operation they don't need any "helpers". If you are building race engines that last one race, by all means use copper wire, silicone goo, vacuum hose, etc. But not for street use.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

if ya ever did decide to turbo your n/a, plan on waiting about 6 months to gather quality used parts (cheaper), having about 1,000 for the build and lots of patience! ive been doing this since march and learning on the way. for some people buying a tII is the better way but why wouldnt you want more power, quicker boost, and a turbo'ed n/a that everyone will tell you your gonna blow your motor and be wrong!!! just ask aaron cake!!^^^ and a few other members!

moonless

yeah I have to agree with Aaron cake on that seal answer. I tried it when i first got in to these before I even knew how big a following the car had. lets just say I had coolant going all over the drive way before the car even warmed up.
If you really want to boost it go to this site in the faq section it will tell you everything you need www.banzairacing.net
In all reallity it would be cheaper to look for a good t2 project with a blown engine or wrecked and use your car for the body

volcom_guy18

thanks again for all your guys help. I bought it for 3000 and it suposedly has about 3000 miles on the rebuild. Its in realy good condition so im not complaing. but thanks again

iceblue

Fresh rebuild good body. Man lucky dog! Dood drive the car enjoy the **** out of it. When you become board and have some spare dough don’t be afraid to turbo that N/A. Or if time has come for motor then is a good time to do a 13bt swap if you want a little easier then turboing your NA I think.

Welcome to club and enjoy your 7.

ps. stop listening to them friends.