silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

I didn't think I was going to Invest the time to either make one or buy one until I dropped In my GReddy FMIC. Man, do the temps climb up quickly. I was mistaken to believe the e-fan (Flex-A-Lite #150) mysteriously under went some kind of reverse polarity b'c It wasn't pulling much air as It was prior to the FMIC Install.

Is anyone running one of FC3S.ORG's CF Panels? Regards? I've got to act quick.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

reboot

been out of stock for a very long time.

DelSlow

iTrader: (2)

i have one. it looks nice, but the fit isnt all that great. i had to cut the holes out a bit to get it to fit right.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Ohhh man

Can you elaborate on your exact problem and setup?

I was thinking of going with the greddy intercooler, nad I am too running a flex a lite.

Bukwild

ditch the ac

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

Tony, I don't have one of the fancy CF ones, Ian and I just made our own out of aluminum.

Honestly, it made no difference in my temperatures...looks good though I had more luck adding 2 bottles of Water Wetter.

----
My car runs at about 88C (190F).

I'm starting to think a lot of the elevated coolant temp problems associated with our big turbos/fmic (etc), is not JUST the reduced amount of airflow through the rad, but also the amount of heat buildup in the engine bay.

If I keep my main E-fan (big Vintage Air) running all the time, my coolant temperatures are about 7C (13F) lower. This holds true even on the highway, where in theory, the e-fan should not really do anything.

But it does. It must be circulating air around the bay, keeping overall underhood temps down, and thus reducing some of the coolant temps.... that is my guess...

fastrotaries

I had the old school Greddy set up and Car started doing all sort of overheating with it installed. I had the bottom shroud, just not the top. I think that was it. Oh and probably that the Stock radiator wasn't big enough. It had been cleaned and rodded, it just wasn't cutting it.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

If you have the plastic panels in place, it's not going to make a difference. Do you still have your undertray on? I had to fab up a thin aluminum pan from bumper to just behind the oil cooler to get air from blowing out the bottom. That seemed to work great for me, but I don't have the greddy, just a crappy starion.

Mr. Gadget

Wrong, just received mine last week.


Incorrect, the one I have fits like a glove (Not OJ's). I orignally had a issue with the hood release lever. a 1/4 inch bend and it fit wonderful.

Now on the performance side I cannot comment as there is no motor in this car, however, on the looks side, it is great. to me its worth the money for the looks.

vaughnc

I know aeryodyne industries has metal ones in stock for our 2nd gens:

http://www.aerodyne.net/RX7.htm

SDrotary-FC

yea i use that one as well i could'nt tell any diff. with it though

Bukwild

silver rotor. I am going to have my car back in week or so and I will let you know some stuff I try to get the temp down. And yes the Greddy is a monster FMIC and blocks alot of air but it shouldn't affect these cars like it does. As of now it has ac, ford escort efan/shroud, and the stock rad. I am going to try and ditch the ac and see how much the temp drops on the highway. Then I will put my Griffin 26/19/2.5 rad back on and see what temps that gives me. Next try some water wetter and if that doesnt' get it I will go with Evans NPG. And if that don't work I will V-mount the FMIC because I will not over heat another engine if at all possible

BEFC3S

I am running a Greddy FM with no a/c, a koyo alum radiator with an aluminum fan shroud with a black magic fan, water wetter, the bottom tray, and an aluminum cover similar to the aerodyne one. My temps are much higher than I would like. I run about 195 around town and 205 on the freeway at 80mph, but as soon as I start up a hill I climb to 220 pretty quick. Oil temps follow closely about 5 degrees behind.

I have tried all sorts of options but think that either a smaller front mount or a relocated oil cooler is the best option at this point. I've talked to a couple ppl that have replaced the giant greddy FM and have seen their temps come down significantly.

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

What is your EG/W mixture?

I'm running about 80% water and 20% EG with Water Wetter...that did make a difference. Water dissipates heat a lot better than EG. If you live in an area that does not get cold, then run as little EG as possible, keeping some as a lubricant

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I have the CF one from FC3S. I like it.

Ronac

I made my own out of plexiglass. Simple, cheap and looks cool because its clear.

RETed

Be careful with "plexi".
Plexiglas(TM) is acrylic, and it scratches easily and cracks / shatters.

Lexan(TM) is tougher and more scratch-resistant.
It's also known as "polycarbonate".
Yes, it also costs more.

Best mod for a street care for these cooling issues is to core out the stock thermostat.


-Ted

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Whoa, thanks for the responses guys. I should elaborate further. I am running a fresh streetported rebuild with a new Koyo and a crack-free Under Belly Pan. I do not have AC/Powersteering and all the supports to the Bumper are absent. My ratio Is a 50/50 compostion and I've got a bottle of Redline's Waterwetter In there.

Pre-FMIC, my Oil Temps were at a constant and healthy 180F and stayed there. As my Water Temps were always at a 84-86C from what my LT8 Handcontroller and GReddy Guage were showing. Now, my water Temps climbed as high as 94C and Oil just passing 210F which Is not cool. I do have a RB Oil Baffle Plate that maybe assisting In my cooling of the Oil.

I went a head and called Dave Gibson to both order the CF Cooling Panel and asked what he did. He responded damn near same to BEFC3S. I may relocate the Oil Cooler or/and add some ducting to accomadate this surprisingly high temps!

I've also flushed out the Oil Cooler and straightened out all the fins to my Oil Cooler which may have help some.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

I may persue that route - non-thermostat. Guru was suggesting this. I dunno.

Interesting of you to mention this. Without my questioning, Dave openly had told me that a previous batch (from former CF fabricator which no longer works there) was "not doing a good job". I respected that Dave was quite open with this. In any regard, Dave assures me that his present and on going Inventory Is of the good make and had said that minor trimming Is needed as some may find that they want to keep more or less on the Panel - which Is fine by me.

I forgot to mention that If there Is one thing I took note on with my Black Magic #150 Is the amount of air It used to hull. I'd be at the back of the car and I was able to actually feel the air make It's way there. Now, with no air to grab, It feels like the fan Is a pusher Instead. of a puller. As from now, when the Sun Is beaming, my car Is hiding.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Carefull, a lot of people might jump on you for saying that

I did ran my engine like that back in PR (where the temps NEVER go below 80's ) without any problems!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

How would this help if the problem is lack of airflow?

There truly is very little air being drawn through the rad. My thoughts are that:

1. E-fan too weak
2. Greddy IC is a MASSIVE piece. Huge restriction
3. Bumper hole simply too small
4. Areas between rad and car need to be sealed up

Bukwild

yeah I have the stock s4 front end onner right now. I will also try cutting the **** out of the front to see if that makes a difference. I hope DLTREEZEN gets the reverse scoop hood done fast. I think we will find that the reverse scoop with solve the problem.

sirx7

you be better of to run the stock fan i have benerunning stock and been driving lots nota single problem

ps. i still ahve ac, powersterring and all the otehr junk in my enignie.. it so packed you can not even see through the top to the bottom, like in most cars.

Bukwild

sirx7 do you have the Greddy FMIC?