scheistermeister

with taking the core out of the themostat wouldnt that reduce the amount of water that is allowed to flow through the engine when its just sitting? i know in another car of mine i dont have a thermostat and if im sitting in traffic i have to turn the ac on so both of my fans turn on(this isnt a rx7). is it the same with these?

koukifc3s

iTrader: (3)

Im gonna get the aerodyne one! Looks great and not a bad price

Bukwild

is thier anyone running a Greddy FMIC with the stock rad and clutch fan? If so please post your temps.

RETed

Sure, and they can rant all they want.

I run no thermostat, but this is something I'm too lazy to "fix".
In Hawaii, very cold temps is really not an issue.
The engine does take a little longer to get to temps, so that's one cavaet.

I got to mess with a trio of pretty modded FC's in Europe recently.
hIGGI FC is pretty built, and it ran a bit hot than normal.
Water temps were hovering in the 85C to 105C range for most driving.
Oil temps were hovering in the 95C to 105C range for most driving.
The car does run a GReddy V-spec FMIC.
It does run the engine undertray.
It does have a genuine R.E.A. FC2000 front bumper.
It does have a K2RD upgrade rad.

Another FC runs an BNR H-trim compressor upgrade, custom FMIC (two stock IC cores welded), and a Koyo upgrade rad.
This car initially ran very hot - Haltech showed 210F+ consistent water temps.
The stock engine undertray was reinstalled, but temp drop as not too drastic.
We cored the stock thermostat, and it has always ran in the 195F to 210F solid via the Haltech water temp display.
This even with running up to 12psi of boost with an estimated 300hp at the wheels of power output.
Ambients were hitting close to 30C at one point, but it always stayed on the cool side.

Yes enother FC runs a BNR 60-1 compressor upgrade, GReddy V-spec FMIC, K2RD upgrade rad, and "modified" R.E.A. FC2000 front bumper.
This car runs slightly hotter than the middle car, with water temps hovering in the 200F to 220F range for most driving.
A custom metal undertray in installed, but it did not lower temps that drastically.
Estimated power output is slightly lower than the middle car (due to a non-ported motor).

All of the above cars are running the Black Magic M150 electric fan in puller mode behind the rad cores.

This is my data point.
You can take it however you want, but to me the cored thermostat was a drastic reduction in coolant temps for very little money.

Now, the disclaimer - racers have recommended to BLOCK the bypass hole when using a cored thermostat.  I have never had overheating issues on the daily driver street car, but I do not constantly high rev my engine all over the place.  Plugging the bypass hole is supposed to prevent overheating when using a cored thermostat on a motor being revved a lot (i.e. for racing).

We do have a 20B NA car using a cored thermostat with the bypass hole welded over in the water pump housing.  We're using the K2RD upgrade rad, and it has always run cool...even on the track - it's a drift vehicle.  This car uses a Spal 16" high-slow electric fan in puller mode behind the rad core.

Sorry for the mix of C and F units.
30C = 86F
100C = 212F
85C = 185F
95C = 203F
105C = 221F


-Ted

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Ted, you mention "All of the above cars are running the Black Magic M150 electric fan in puller mode behind the rad cores." Is that to say that the #150 has the option of running In pusher or puller mode or was there just to much thought put Into It on my part? Great to see numbers posted.

RETed

Yes, the fan can be configiured to run either as a pusher or a puller.

If you got the fan WITHOUT the stupid thermostat box...
puller:  blue -> GROUND, black -> +12VDC
pusher:  blue -> +12VDC, black -> GROUND

If you got the stupid thermostat box, the wires can be reversed on female spade connectors once the box is taken apart.  I believed they are confirgured to run as a PULLER from the factory.

Most other electric fans can be reverse polarity wires to run either or configuration for your needs.


-Ted

RETed

Stupid typos...it should be "high-flow", not "high-slow".


-Ted

Bukwild

yeah I will be doing some serious testing this summer because 212 - 220 is too hot for non boosting temps at 80mph going down the highway. I am close to trying the 600 plus dollar rad from corksport and running evans coolant. And yes I will have the FC2000 front end on as well and it looks like the IC is not as large as I would like. I might have to opend it up a little.
If anyone has ran evans and had good luck with it behide a greddy FMIC please post

poor college student

i actually have something similar except in aluminum... i find that it's not so great for the "cooling" aspect, but it is nice for it's "i need a spot to put stuff that is flat in my engine bay while i have the hood up" qualities.

jon88se

You really need a way to datalog temps or an accurate gauge...I don't think the stock gauge is capable of displaying a 10 degree difference in water temps in either direction.

Bukwild

yeah I am going to get a aftermarket temp guage

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

After you get an aftermarket Guage ie. have real numbers to support the fact the temps are In deed high, you will address this problem alot sooner.

$150FC

Somebody define "cored thermostat" for me. You saying to remove it completely?

Secondly, how hot is too hot for both oil and coolant temps?

Victor

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

That would be removing the inside part of the thermostat, everything in the middle or between the ring. By doing so, the thermostat will become "just a washer"

RETed

I'll so a write-up for this soon...
Remove the thermostat and you'll see four legs, two top and two bottom that position the center sprung portion.  Cut all 4 legs so the center drops out.  Use a stout wire cutter or tin snips.  You're left with the flange which requires to be reinstalled back into the engine.


Water temp...
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/EL/GAUGES/wtemp.htm

Oil temp...
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/EL/GAUGES/otemp.htm


-Ted

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Aside from the CF Cooling Panel, changing of the Water/Coolant Ratios, I may have to relocate the Oil Cooler. Suggestions for optimal placement, If there Is such a thing? I'd Imagine when I swap In the s5 Bumpers there may be a difference In temps.

Even tonight for example, I dropped off my car to have my ss 3" Brullen Exhaust done. It was a good 30 km stretch with mostly highway driving. Going about 120km's, weather rather cool with a high near 18 - at peak my Water was at 90C and my Oil at 225F.

Bukwild

Yeah I will buy the aftermarket guage. also if I spend another grand to get this thing to cool down to resonable temps with the reverse scoop hood, corksport rad and evans coolant and it still doesn't get down to 190 on the highway then F-it. I will never happen. And i will go with other options

Bukwild

This sounds crazy but has anyone ever moved the rad up front and the intercooler behind it? similar to a third gen?

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

How about a puller E fan behind the intercooler?

jon88se

Kind of, a couple of people (1 or 2) have V mounted intercoolers which moves the radiator back a bit and mounts the IC in the engine compartment horizontally just behind the front crossmember. Nobody has done an actual FD kind of configuration but it would be hard. The FD still does get it's fresh air from the grille of the car with some ducting if I remember correctly. I think it would take a lot of fabricating of ducts, mounts and brackets to get that kind of setup on an FC and I don't think it would work very well.

Ted, any benefit for FMIC users to run a 160 degree thermostat?

Ryde _Or_Die

Not sure why everyone is having problems. I have the GReddy fmic, fluidyne radiator, stock fan, no cooling panel, and just run the premixed prestone and have NO problems, ever. I made about 10 back to back passes at the track and still had no problem at all. Maybe its the e-fans that everyone has hyped up?

jon88se

IMHO e-fans are generally not properly shrouded and don't pull the same air as the OEM fan. I think the stock fan works great, no reason to change it. The FC charging system also stinks so I wouldn't want to tax it with an e-fan. So, to me an e-fan over works the electrical system in the car just for a slight loss of parasitic drag on the motor and zero cooling bonus.

Ryde _Or_Die

Ding Ding Ding!

Bukwild

Ryde or Die, can you test your highway speed temps? Only reason I ask is that it seems to behave all except on the highway. Also did you put the stock fan shroud on the Fluidine?

RETed

Any particular brand?
I've never come across a really good one that rivals the quality of the Mazda OEM unit.


-Ted